Joy; P049x, P1559 & P0456
Dealer recommends $1500 worth of cleaning the air injection bypass valves (which of course requires a/c compressor removal to get to them since everything Audi designs is a nightmare layout), cleaning throttle body, and wait and see on the vapor thing because finding if there's a leak this small would be very intensive but will swap the gas cap to see if it's just the gasket on there.
My understanding of the secondary bypass is it just feeds additional air through to the exhaust manifold to influence the burning of more fuel on the cats at startup to heat them up faster, but otherwise it shouldn't result in difficult starts or running issues. Is that accurate?
On the throttle body, that sounds more likely to be the weird start culprit. Does cleaning usually resolve or am I just prolonging replacement by pointlessly having them clean it?
Thanks!
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...53120-9999.pdf
I would have them do the free work, then see if the interment codes come back.
I believe that TSB is the one the dealer referenced though as they sent me a video that I recognize part of from what you posted, and it confirms "If vehicle is outside any warranty, this Technical Service Bulletin is informational only." I'm inclined to not have them do it if this doesn't impact starting and drivability, just minor change in startup emissions, given the cost of labor being $1000+ for this.
It is easer to do on the Q7 though, than the other modes with the 3.0T. We at least have a little room in front of the engine to work. I've seen this done with a giant drill bit, but that requires putting the car in service position (taking the front off) and also by using a pressure washer which you might be able to sneak one in on the Q7.
), and introduce a high quality fuel system/concentrated injector cleaner...following each product's directions are very important for reaching desired results. If you are close to oil change, use an oil flush product to remove varnish/deposits, and then refill with an excellent oil, such as Liqui Moly, Amsoil, Motul, etc. I'd stay away from Castrol or the VW/Audi branded, OE oil, but that's just based on how my cars run on those oils...very noisy.I'd bet you rapidly see some positive results once you clean out mass airflow sensor and all the restrictions and garbage deposits throughout the intake tract, air filter/fuel filter, plus clean those injectors. You might spend what, $100-$150 on filters & chemical additives/cleaners/flush products; call it $200 + if you spring for the oil change kit, and do it all yourself. I really like the complete line of Liqui Moly products in our cars, as they work.











