jman649916

Sorry, no pics this time, but for the record, I got some yellow wire loom and zip ties and covered all the wires that I could easily get to....However, one that I did was the set of wires running from the back of the engine up to the top of the rear firewall. I think there's supposed to be a heat shield there, but as I was driving tonight, I noticed a funny smell and when I looked, it had melted the wire loom around that one place, which I found weird, since loom is used as a heat shield....

Anyway, the other thing I did was install new front speakers. I have a set of Alpine Type R 6.5" components, and Alpine Type R 6.5" coaxials. For now, with the Bose system being structured the way it is, the Coax's wouldn't do me any good in the rear, as no highs reach the "rear" speakers. Also, the Coax's have a slightly shallower mounting depth, so here's what I did...(keep in mind, this is only until I replace the Bose system). I ran the original front signal straight to the coaxials, then came directly off of that connection and went to the input of the crossover for the component set, and only used the tweeter output (and, of course, replaced the Bose tweeter with the alpine). In case that doesn't make sense, I now have a full range 6.5" 2 way coax with an additional high passed component 1" tweeter in each door. Anyway, the imaging is sooo much better now, you can actually hear those high cymbal crashes with no specific frequencies that rattle and distort. And the nice thing is that the front speakers were originally 2 Ohms, and by replacing the front speakers with a 4 Ohm set, the low ranges in the rear are comparably louder, though the fronts won't get quite as loud as before.

So the point is, if you plan on keeping the Bose system, at least replace the door speakers... the difference is certainly not negligible. And I must say I recommend the setup that I did because the coaxial Type R's are EXACTLY the right width and depth, and the door panels have a ridiculous amount of room in which to mount the crossovers. Plus, the tweeters fit directly into the factory spot with no cutting, gluing, etc.

MaxHedrm

Loom isn't used as a heat sheild as much as a device to keep wires together.