Audi TT Quattro 2000 no crank. Why?
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Location: New England
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Replaced Ignition Switch: NO CRANK problem solved.
The New Ignition Switch arrived. A quick testing is showing that the 30b to 50b contact goes "ON/short" right at the beginning of the CRANK position rotation ( at about 95 degrees of rotational angle from the OFF position), while on the Old Switch, that happened towards the end of the CRANK position, at about 120 degrees. So, I expect that the New Switch will resolve the problem.
Installed the New Ignition Switch it in its place, and did a quick check of the 30b-50b "ON/short" with an Ohmmeter when the Key is moved to the CRANK position. It went "ON/short" right away. Greeeeaaaat!!!!
The New Ignition Switch resolved the problem!!!
Installed back step by step in reverse everything that has been removed:
- applied red paint on the Ignition Switch holding screw heads
- installed Ignition Switch contact plate.
checked the "ON/short" with the Ohmmeter at terminal (2) of the Starter Relay socket against the 12v+ lug/nut, when Key in CRANK position. All OK Great, this works as well. So problem indeed resolved.
- installed bottom steering column cover, followed by the steering column position lever handle
- installed top steering column cover
- installed steering wheel
- installed steering wheel Air Bag
- installed the Starter Relay
connected the battery and tested the Cranking, to make sure everything works, before installing everything left back. It cranked and the engine started. Great !!!
disconnected the battery and proceeded with the rest of installation:
- installed Headlight Switch assembly and OBD II socket/outlet back into the Dashboard bottom cover.
- installed the Dashboard bottom cover
- installed the Fuse box
- installed the Fuse box cover.
Reconnected the battery.
Test: The car started just fine. Went for a short test drive.
Great! Feels good when the problem is solved.
Installed the New Ignition Switch it in its place, and did a quick check of the 30b-50b "ON/short" with an Ohmmeter when the Key is moved to the CRANK position. It went "ON/short" right away. Greeeeaaaat!!!!
The New Ignition Switch resolved the problem!!!
Installed back step by step in reverse everything that has been removed:
- applied red paint on the Ignition Switch holding screw heads
- installed Ignition Switch contact plate.
checked the "ON/short" with the Ohmmeter at terminal (2) of the Starter Relay socket against the 12v+ lug/nut, when Key in CRANK position. All OK Great, this works as well. So problem indeed resolved.
- installed bottom steering column cover, followed by the steering column position lever handle
- installed top steering column cover
- installed steering wheel
- installed steering wheel Air Bag
- installed the Starter Relay
connected the battery and tested the Cranking, to make sure everything works, before installing everything left back. It cranked and the engine started. Great !!!
disconnected the battery and proceeded with the rest of installation:
- installed Headlight Switch assembly and OBD II socket/outlet back into the Dashboard bottom cover.
- installed the Dashboard bottom cover
- installed the Fuse box
- installed the Fuse box cover.
Reconnected the battery.
Test: The car started just fine. Went for a short test drive.
Great! Feels good when the problem is solved.
Last edited by audittis; 01-22-2018 at 06:02 AM. Reason: make corrections
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