SF_TTMT6

Lots of info on this forum on the Boost Machine, TTSchwing, thanks for the write ups and photos you've got! =)

I had a little problem with the boost machine not going above 15 PSI's... Pulled my VAG out and the MAF Sensor is too high dialed the boost down a little... cleared it and works great!

The relief valve I ordered from norgren is rated at 0-10 PSI's (V07-100-NNAA). Wouldn't it be better if you can get boost higher in lower gear?
The only other spring Norgren carries is the 0-50 PSI rated spring, just pull out the spring from the Relief valve and replace it. Part number is 613-03.

It will spool the turbo up faster to 20+ PSI in the first gear. This is something I cannot do yet.

TTschwing

Just a couple of PSI actually. It's only there to prevent wastegate creep and set the onset. The onset with our small turbos comes in pretty early so you need to barely open this one. You've got a regulator plumbed in too I hope?
You don't want, nor will you get Unregulated high boost levels in the lower gears..

SF_TTMT6

If I am to replaced the spring to the 50PSI one, I have to be very careful not to set the relief valve a higher setting than the regulator.

I am still tempted to try out the spring, of course it's not for everyday driving... wouldn't the relief valve set at 15+ PSI and regulator at 24PSI will make the car more responsive?

TTschwing

Read again. Do not put a higher rated spring in the relief valve. You want this to open at minimal PSI. Go back and re-read the Autospeed articles and the FAQ...You are not understanding how this works..<ul><li><a href="http://www.personal.kent.edu/~cplasket/BMFAQ.htm">Boost machine FAQ</a></li></ul>

TT-Andrew

Here's my input.
In an attempt to over engineer the process of the Boost Machine, I decided to use a precision relief valve and regulator with electronic control. I also had them calibrated. Then I consumed the better part of a weekend plumbing it with tansducers so I could read the pressure at the 3 points along the path. I then took the bundle, shoved it into my 225QC, ran the wires out the hood, through the window and into the car. End of weekend. Car not running, leave it for next weekend.

Next weekend. I of course hooked all of this menagerie plus the transducer measuring the boost pressure to a AB slc500. Then I took the DH+ from the plc into the laptop I was using to diag.
Ok. so now you have the picture. I've got the front seat all the way forward, plc in the trunk, friend Jeff in the back seat with the laptop. I tried everything including my origanol thought of putting the regulator and relief within 1 psi of each other.
The moral of the story is that anyone with 4 days and $800 could repeat this. (I "borrowed" the pressure transducers and scl500 from work) I found that it was much better planning it out and building it then it was using it. Setting the valves close to each other makes the car undriveable. BTW, I haven't tried the regular boost machine... maybe its just not complicated enough. Or maybe its just easier to take the 996 out, either way thats my $0.02

andrew

TTschwing

I laughed. It's really not rocket science though. With about 1/2 hour of manual tuning in, it works great! Try to K.I.S.S it again...:-)

TT-Andrew

Simple is not nearly as fun as complex...
I was hoping to bestow unpon AudiWorld Data the likes of which they had never seen. No good...
I should have just taken a picture of the wireloom running through the window.

TTschwing

I've got My firewall grommet so stuffed with wiring that anything else I do will have to go outside and through the window!

TT-Andrew

My wife thinks I'm crazy, but she's very happy with the 3 zone PID controlled oven. (I didn't run the wires through the door)

TTschwing

Double LOL..