comments on boost machine
05-10-2004, 03:53 AM
#1
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
comments on boost machine
Finally got all the parts, and here are some thoughts/observations.
1. If you want one of these, your best bet is to go ahead and get one from Scott (Audacious TT) with his bracket. From the time I ordered, it took me 6 weeks to get the Norgren and MW parts. 2. Then, the dummies didn't send me the right plugs I asked for for plugging the unused ports on the MW valve. (Thanks Scott, for helping me out there.)
3. Next thing I noticed was that the Norgren valve came in 1/8 NPT, and the MW is 1/4 NPT. Some of the pics I've seen seemed to be 1/4, but I ordered by the part number others have listed, and even specified 1/4, but what I got was something else.
4. I spent a whole day running around trying to find the brass fittings I needed to make this all fit together, and couldn't come up with a combination as compact as what Scott has done. For ex, to connect the two valves, I had to use a 1/8 union, and at 1/8 female to 1/4 male reducer. What would have been ideal would have been a 1/8 and 1/4 male on both ends so they could be closer. After going 5 places, I could only find one 5/16 hose barb 90 degree, so all the rest I had to use elbows and straight barbs, also adding to the size.
5. Because this came out longer overall than I thought it would, mounting became a challenge. I ended up making my own bracket out of 3/16 steel, bolted to the angled flat part of the brace on the strut bar, with the Norgren valve through the hole. Note that the Norgren valve does NOT come with a nut on the top for mounting, as the MW valve does. If you order yourself, see if you can get the nut too, in case you need it, like I did. I used the one off the MW valve, but it only screws down so far. I had to shim under it so I could tighten. Overall, tho, it's a very clean installation, in the same place that Scott shows in his pics. That makes it easy to attach the hose from the bottom of the N75 to your inlet barb on the BM.
Results:
I don't have a chip yet (4k more miles to go). I used the instructions in the original articles on Steve's FOTKI site, or through the FAQ AxeYrCat did links to.) I adjusted in 1/4 turn trials, and right now, I'm at 3.5 on the PR, and only half on the relief valve. I am amazed at how driveability has improved. I now have boost in 1st gear if I want it (about 5psi) whereas none before. 2nd I can get about 10, 3rd and up I readily get 12-14. I may crank it up a little bit more. While these numbers don't look huge for a non-chipped car, the difference is that the boost is there any time you want it, not suddenly appearing when the ECU thinks it should, in a sudden rush, and then quickly falling back off. This comes out very very smooth, and very linear. I am very pleased. :>
As usual, thanks to all who have gone before!
Fig
1. If you want one of these, your best bet is to go ahead and get one from Scott (Audacious TT) with his bracket. From the time I ordered, it took me 6 weeks to get the Norgren and MW parts. 2. Then, the dummies didn't send me the right plugs I asked for for plugging the unused ports on the MW valve. (Thanks Scott, for helping me out there.)
3. Next thing I noticed was that the Norgren valve came in 1/8 NPT, and the MW is 1/4 NPT. Some of the pics I've seen seemed to be 1/4, but I ordered by the part number others have listed, and even specified 1/4, but what I got was something else.
4. I spent a whole day running around trying to find the brass fittings I needed to make this all fit together, and couldn't come up with a combination as compact as what Scott has done. For ex, to connect the two valves, I had to use a 1/8 union, and at 1/8 female to 1/4 male reducer. What would have been ideal would have been a 1/8 and 1/4 male on both ends so they could be closer. After going 5 places, I could only find one 5/16 hose barb 90 degree, so all the rest I had to use elbows and straight barbs, also adding to the size.
5. Because this came out longer overall than I thought it would, mounting became a challenge. I ended up making my own bracket out of 3/16 steel, bolted to the angled flat part of the brace on the strut bar, with the Norgren valve through the hole. Note that the Norgren valve does NOT come with a nut on the top for mounting, as the MW valve does. If you order yourself, see if you can get the nut too, in case you need it, like I did. I used the one off the MW valve, but it only screws down so far. I had to shim under it so I could tighten. Overall, tho, it's a very clean installation, in the same place that Scott shows in his pics. That makes it easy to attach the hose from the bottom of the N75 to your inlet barb on the BM.
Results:
I don't have a chip yet (4k more miles to go). I used the instructions in the original articles on Steve's FOTKI site, or through the FAQ AxeYrCat did links to.) I adjusted in 1/4 turn trials, and right now, I'm at 3.5 on the PR, and only half on the relief valve. I am amazed at how driveability has improved. I now have boost in 1st gear if I want it (about 5psi) whereas none before. 2nd I can get about 10, 3rd and up I readily get 12-14. I may crank it up a little bit more. While these numbers don't look huge for a non-chipped car, the difference is that the boost is there any time you want it, not suddenly appearing when the ECU thinks it should, in a sudden rush, and then quickly falling back off. This comes out very very smooth, and very linear. I am very pleased. :>
As usual, thanks to all who have gone before!
Fig
05-10-2004, 05:43 AM
#2
good points. Because I know that I just didn't want the hassle of sourcing all >>
the parts, and besides, it takes more time that what you first anticipate...like Fig says, wrong barb here, wrong 1/8 in here...back to get a 1/4...another few days and before you know it, its 3 days worth of sourcing, driving, waiting and acquiring parts.
So I didn't even give it a second thought and bought my prefab one from Scott, who did a beautiful job constructing it with stepless ear clamps to make it very OEM and installed very cleanly into the slot above the brake fluid resevoir.
So I didn't even give it a second thought and bought my prefab one from Scott, who did a beautiful job constructing it with stepless ear clamps to make it very OEM and installed very cleanly into the slot above the brake fluid resevoir.
05-10-2004, 06:13 AM
#3
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It is an expereince>>>>
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/62654/fu.jpg"></center><p>sourcing all the parts....then getting it to fit right...I machine 90 degree elbow's into T's and cut down straight air nipples to keep this thing compact...Lots of love goes into these beauties.
I want to thank you all for your positive comments...I am glad you are getting desired results!
I want to thank you all for your positive comments...I am glad you are getting desired results!
05-10-2004, 06:23 AM
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Glad you like it! They work great!>>>
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/62654/fullunit2.jpg"></center><p>the part number on the RV should have 200 in the middle of it for the 1/4... NOT 100, which is 1/8. I love the torquey feel it adds with the extra boost..I run mine at 4 1/2 on PR and 3/4 on RV...The result is more...earlier...consistency...It runs at 22-25 lbs boost and comes on much sooner...even at partial throttle.
Thanks again
Thanks again
05-10-2004, 07:01 AM
#5
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Hey Scott, you free for lunch sometime this week? Wed perhaps?
You can check out the nose job in person and we can catch up a bit. Also, I want one of those BM's and wanted to get some advice from you on boost guages, etc.
:-)
:-)
