Oh5TTquattro

This is my first Audi. I hope I made a decent choice. It has unbelievable service records and only 98k I got it for 4500. The timing belt on the car I just purchased only has thirty thousand, but it's nine years old. I never heard of a manufacturer setting a time limit on timing belts but i'm not going to risk it. Here's a list of parts I purchased so far:

OEM elring front crank seal
Schley pulley holder and a 24mm impact socket. I will fabricate a tool to hold the cam pulley or try my subaru crank pulley holder.
I've never used a camshaft/crankshaft seal remover but I may purchase the cam one. I've never scratched a cam/crank either
3x 1.5l bottles of Meyle purple coolant
Oem valve cover gasket
R8 denso coils and cts adapters
URO acc belt tensioner and bolt

A deluxe timing belt kit that's more complete than any kit i've ever purchased and installed, kit includes: If i'm missing anything let me know please. I have alldata so i'm not going to purchase the bentley service manual unless someone suggests otherwise.

I also plan on installing an 034 80 durometer complete mount set and more than likely a neuspeed under drive pulley kit. I also purchased a short throw and a haldex programmer from HPA. I have a problem, i'll admit it, but once this car has 300hp i'll be happy and i'll hopefully leave it at that. I haven't even received the car yet it's being shipped to me, that's how you know you have a problem!

Oh5TTquattro

I purchased a 12 point socket for the crank gear bolt. I'm seriously considering buying a Kevlar Gates racing belt.

Oh5TTquattro

Well I guess the pullies are a bad idea, thankfully I didn't purchase them. https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2469299

I'm thinking about getting a manual tensioner for the timing belt. I realize now I need to calm down before I buy any more parts that i'll just end up selling on ebay or sitting on.

Vegas-roadster

It's the water pump and/or tensioner. Anything beyond an OEM-level belt is wasting money. Lots of folks happy with the Continental.

oldroller

As Vegas said, the Conti belt and standard tensioner/idler will serve you well for 75K or so.
Unless...you are planning on stripping this ride down for track use. Only then would a manual tensioner make sense,
as you will need to dick with it frequently, under all that piping/mount/cover business. Likewise the cam and crank seals.
If they are not leaking let that dog sleep. You will have spares.
Likely you will find (once the car is in your hands) more than enough to keep you busy.

Oh5TTquattro

I'd like to know what it is definitely. I've always gone 100k on timing belt services and i've never had an issue even on intereference motors with a hydraulic tensioner. I feel like i'm wasting money completely doing a service at thirty thousand/9 years, but at least i'll be getting rid of that pos plastic impellar pump and putting in new oil seals. I've always had good luck with gates timing belt kits, never used continental. I always thought the kevlar belts were a gimmick, but after reading on RAI about the class action lawsuit and them blaming the belt it got me thinking. The reality is though there are people making much higher horsepower than 225 with stock belts in many other applications, so they probably just typed that to sell kevlar belts.

One car I have I replace the rotational seals, valve cover gasket/tube seals at the 60k service which now is around 100k. I would have to think you are correct as i've noticed on my volvo the oil seals were good at 180k, but on other engines with japanese/nok or subaru oil seals they don't seem to go 100k.

I've ran a solid pulley for a long time on another vehicle I have and it hasn't caused the crank to snap yet and the engine has over 200k hard miles on it, but if there's a chance it's a waste of money I don't need it. I have thought about whether or not it's just to isolate NVH from the driver/cab rather than stabilize the motor.

oldroller

If you have the service records for the timing belt change at 68K, likely it will post the water pump change also. They are usually done the same time
as the belt. If so, you likely have a metal impeller also. At 30K you might be throwing away mileage on those components.
I just changed my belt/pump/idler/tensioner at 100K, the original stuff. It looked excellent, despite being 19 years old. Even the plastic impeller looked aok.
Clearance at the engine is tight, patience is required to get to all the fasteners. Loads of replacement vids online. Good luck with your new ride!

Oh5TTquattro

Thank you!

The reason for the first timing belt service was overheating caused by impeller failure. The service was complete not just the belt. I already spent the money, at the very least i'll check the tension on it and make sure it's okay. I wonder if I can see in with the top cover off and check if the hydraulic tensioner seal has failed.

I have a delphi ds150 obd2 cable that I use in conjunction with their program. It is a very intensive program. Would I be able to use this instead of the VAG com that I keep reading about?

Oh5TTquattro

When I typed in the part number for the pump they used it appears to be a plastic impeller. They used all oem parts

Mister Bally

I have an '01 Beetle turbo with the same basic engine. Timing belt change interval is listed as 105,000 miles. First one snapped at 95,000 miles. VW paid that bill. 2nd one snapped at "only" 90,000 miles. Fortunately, I had a spare cylinder head from an Audi TT BEA engine so the parts only cost me $390.00

Do NOT go past 75,000 miles on your timing belt unless you like to gamble.