Ducman

I've been driving my TT harder lately and it's been pushing the front when accelerating hard out of corners. I'm interested in a mod or two to help create some mild oversteer and get rid of the push. I really don't want to spend a bunch of time right now dialing in and experimenting with coil-overs. New springs and struts would be OK if it fixes the push. If a stiffer rear sway bar would fix it, I would be OK with that for the time being.
Alright suspension gods, how about a little advice?
Thanks for the help,

Larrytt

You are just over driving the car in the corners! Any car will do that if you go in too fast in a straight line and then try and turn.

You can change things and it will help lessen and possibly eliminate the push, but it will come back to you. If you put on coil-overs and sway bars, change your wheels to lower profile and get stickier tires and add sway bars, eventually the car will corner above 1.0g. Then in a few months when you begin to push even harder as you said, you will ask what can be done to help you at that point.

When/if that time does come, I will tell you to get a set of slicks and head out to the track!

Since you have learned the limit of the car in a corner, I am assuming you are doing this properly and not turning the wheel to lock and hitting the gas. Then it is time to learn to downshift to make that corner even faster. Get yourself to a driving school and really learn what your car is capable of achieving!

Lloyd of the Rings

to drive very tidily. The TT has been a great learning experience for me. I have had to unlearn all my old rally habits learned in a rear wheel drive car.

I recommend the quattro club usa track events...and any others you can do.

Hubec

Perhaps buying a 911 isn't the most sensible thing to do but it's what I did. The basic problem is that the TT has most of its weight over the front wheels. In fact the forward weight bias is so pronounced that Audi builds lead ballast in the back of the TT to partially compensate! You could theoretically setup the car to oversteer under neutral cornering (that's cornering with no change in speed) but it would require major suspension and wheel mods and would destroy the car's driveability.

All that being said, you can oversteer your car if you try hard enough. Let off the gas just as you turn the wheel and the back should start to slowly drift out. You can sometimes get a similar effect if you brake very lightly when entering a turn. Essentially what you're trying to do is unload the weight off the rear wheels so they don't have enough pressure to grip the road, without putting so much weight on the front wheels that they're overloaded and "smear" across the road.

You'll never be able to oversteer under acceleration because all the wrong things are happening to the car; The rear wheels are gaining traction because the weight is moving rearwards giving the them more grip without overloading them (because there's so little weight over them to begin with). Meanwhile the front wheels are losing traction because they're working so hard to accelerate (remember even the TT Quattros are essentially FWD until wheelspin), and because weight's being moved off them.

Actually now that I think of it I may have heard somewhere that it's possible to reprogram the TT's Quattro to have a much more rearward bias. In which case it would be possible to spin the rear wheels in a turn which would bring about radical oversteer. I'm not sure about the reprogramming thing though, maybe I'm thinking about another AWD system...

Pete RD

I mean other than simply "raising" them for track/auto-cross use...doing it to "ease" understeer. Any results?

Just curious...I do in my A6 2.7T. Run 40-42 front (depending on track conditions) and 44-46 rear. Off the track, pressures are much closer to what Audi recommends...about 36-38 front and 34-36 rear.

Colonel Bogey

Stand back and look at the stock nose down attitude of your nose heavy TT. Also note how high the whole car sits with considerable air between fender and top of tire. Your goal is to get the center of gravity lower and more weight on rear wheels.

*Coil-overs* will allow you to adjust to a dead flat attitude (more weight on rear wheels) and go to stiffer rear springs relative to front (H&R). Beware, however, TT needs a wee bit of wedge as mine gets unstable at high speed when air gets under car at zero wedge (needs lower front air dam). They will give you a much better balance, promise. Obviously, a 1"+ drop in ride heigth will allow MUCH greater speed in the corners b/4 limits of adhesion are reached. As such, you will go way faster b/4 front or rear wheels will start to break loose due to greater tire compliance and lower CG. BTW, I run my *coil-overs* @ highest setting as a compromise to speed bumps, curbs, deep snow and back road excursions.

With the alignment that follows *coil-over* install, get all the front negative camber you can get dialed in without grinding down the inside contact patch. -1 3/4* has been a good compromise for me.

OEM TT entering a sharp corner deep and quickly will react with fairly violent front wheel hop (especially off-camber turns). Right? Wheel hop is bad news for adhesion and understeer. Dampers in a *coil-over* kit will do wonders for controlling hop (won't eliminate it w/o race springs and dampers but that would be unliveable as street car).

As for anti-roll bars...I'm still waiting for something sensable to surface in the market place.

Also, enuf cannot be said about sticky tires. If you are ranking this whole business high on your *want* list go for tires that will last but one summer like the Comp T/As (SCCA showroom compound...not the retail tires). Join the club and get tires shaved to *rains* tread depth for street use.

Finally, as a new threashold is reached with above additions and your speed in corners finds new limits you will be amazed how much *pointing* in corners you can do in modded TT with the gas pedal alone. Weeeeeee.

If you chose to leave TT *as is* know that tire pressures, front alignment and driving technique adapted to car's shortcomings is all you have to work with. TT is less than well balanced sitting in your garage and is not or ever will be BMW like in balance. TT is a nose heavy, pig plowing car with OEM Monros (snicker) and springs.

smallTTs

"Fixing" the car doesn't take the place of a better driver, and it can get an untrained/inexperienced one in well over his/her head.

Lloyd of the Rings

This says it all!

Lloyd of the Rings

1) ensure that the rears do not get too high, or the back end will come round on you VERY quickly

2) after much experimentation I start COLD with 36F 33R and make sure during the day they dont go much higher AND the balance front to rear stays the same.

I know MichaelTT starts with a BIGGER diferential front to rear . Still working on that one.

Larrytt

That is what I run with the RE730. I am still playing with the pressures for my Nokian NRW's in the winter.

I found your 36/33 too high for my setup with the RE730's and kept adjusting it until it handled the way I like.

You need a VERY good accurate gauge to do this properly. Don't get a cheap digi gauge. Spend teh $30-50 on a good dial gauge with a hose and bleeder.