Getting to TT West is half the fun - Part 4 The BIG Hole
09-12-2003, 06:45 AM
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Getting to TT West is half the fun - Part 4 The BIG Hole
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You can't mention Arizona without thinking of the Grand Canyon. Personally I do not like the Grand Canyon. It's too large to fully comprehend, the south rim is overcrowded, and the vistas seem to bring on sensory overload after about five overlooks. I'd spend my time at Monument Valley or Canyon de Chelley that I discussed in the last installment. Still, most folks need to see it for themselves and make their own judgment.
The Grand Canyon is 277 miles long and averages 10m miles from rim to rim. Asphalt roads only cover about 1% of the rim. When I do visit the canyon, I go to the north rim. The north rim has about 5% of the traffic of the south rim, the buttes are closer to the rim and give a better perspective, and wild game is always visible (deer, antelope, turkey, etc). The north rim is only open during the warmer months. There is only one lodge on the rim and it closes 2 weeks before TT West. However, you can still drive there if snow has not closed the roads (they are not plowed in the winter). The north rim is about 1,500' higher than the south rim, meaning colder temperatures and more snow than the south rim.
Approach the north rim from the west via St. George Utah and Fredonia. If you have the time go via Zion National park. The spectacular "checkerboard" formations east of Zion and the challenging road running through it are worth the extra miles as compared to the relatively bland Rt 59 and the uninteresting Pipe Springs national monument which is an old morman fort. Approaching from the east or south via Rt. 89A has spectacular red cliffs. Make sure to stop by the "Navajo mall" at the new Lee's Ferry bridge. In October the only lodging options are in Jacob's Lake (last chance to buy gas and it's expensive) which is rather plain (nice trading post) and 43 miles from the rim, or further south at Kaibab Lodge (nice views of game roaming the plains) which is 15 miles from the rim.
The south rim is approached from the north or east via Rt 89 and Cameron ( I highly recommended the Cameron trading post in my last installment). Make sure to visit the Navajo mall at the Little Colorado overlook just before the east entrance to the park, it's your last chance for bargains on Navajo crafts. From the west you take Rt 64 north from Williams. Williams offers an old steam engine train ride to the rim. When in town I recommend the Pine Kitchen in the center of town. Save room for a slice of their 4" thick home made pies! You can also go from Flagstaff via Rt 180.
There are several motels along Rt 64 south of the park entrance but most folks that stay overnight choose one of the rim hotels. Whether it's the old rustic Bright Angel that has been a long time favorite of students or the highly regarded El Tovar, it's nice to be able to walk the rim at sunrise and sunset. Unfortunately, traffic has become so crowded that you must park your car and take a shuttle to visit overlooks near the canyon village and points west. You can still drive your car to the eastern overlooks on the way towards Cameron.
Hiking into the canyon is for the very fit. The most common trail used by tourists is the Bright Angel trail which goes across the canyon to the north rim lodge. However, this trail is also used by the mule rides and the south side trail reeks of mule excrement, particularly during the hot summer.
You can't mention Arizona without thinking of the Grand Canyon. Personally I do not like the Grand Canyon. It's too large to fully comprehend, the south rim is overcrowded, and the vistas seem to bring on sensory overload after about five overlooks. I'd spend my time at Monument Valley or Canyon de Chelley that I discussed in the last installment. Still, most folks need to see it for themselves and make their own judgment.
The Grand Canyon is 277 miles long and averages 10m miles from rim to rim. Asphalt roads only cover about 1% of the rim. When I do visit the canyon, I go to the north rim. The north rim has about 5% of the traffic of the south rim, the buttes are closer to the rim and give a better perspective, and wild game is always visible (deer, antelope, turkey, etc). The north rim is only open during the warmer months. There is only one lodge on the rim and it closes 2 weeks before TT West. However, you can still drive there if snow has not closed the roads (they are not plowed in the winter). The north rim is about 1,500' higher than the south rim, meaning colder temperatures and more snow than the south rim.
Approach the north rim from the west via St. George Utah and Fredonia. If you have the time go via Zion National park. The spectacular "checkerboard" formations east of Zion and the challenging road running through it are worth the extra miles as compared to the relatively bland Rt 59 and the uninteresting Pipe Springs national monument which is an old morman fort. Approaching from the east or south via Rt. 89A has spectacular red cliffs. Make sure to stop by the "Navajo mall" at the new Lee's Ferry bridge. In October the only lodging options are in Jacob's Lake (last chance to buy gas and it's expensive) which is rather plain (nice trading post) and 43 miles from the rim, or further south at Kaibab Lodge (nice views of game roaming the plains) which is 15 miles from the rim.
The south rim is approached from the north or east via Rt 89 and Cameron ( I highly recommended the Cameron trading post in my last installment). Make sure to visit the Navajo mall at the Little Colorado overlook just before the east entrance to the park, it's your last chance for bargains on Navajo crafts. From the west you take Rt 64 north from Williams. Williams offers an old steam engine train ride to the rim. When in town I recommend the Pine Kitchen in the center of town. Save room for a slice of their 4" thick home made pies! You can also go from Flagstaff via Rt 180.
There are several motels along Rt 64 south of the park entrance but most folks that stay overnight choose one of the rim hotels. Whether it's the old rustic Bright Angel that has been a long time favorite of students or the highly regarded El Tovar, it's nice to be able to walk the rim at sunrise and sunset. Unfortunately, traffic has become so crowded that you must park your car and take a shuttle to visit overlooks near the canyon village and points west. You can still drive your car to the eastern overlooks on the way towards Cameron.
Hiking into the canyon is for the very fit. The most common trail used by tourists is the Bright Angel trail which goes across the canyon to the north rim lodge. However, this trail is also used by the mule rides and the south side trail reeks of mule excrement, particularly during the hot summer.
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