how do I diagnose a bad DV?
#1
how do I diagnose a bad DV?
I don't have any loud flutter or honking, but lately my boost has been bleeding off much more in higher RPMs. I though it might just be the heat since we've been having several back to back 100+ degree days. Thoughts?
#3
yeah, still spikes to about where it should...
but used to hold no less than 12 or so depending on the boost machine settings all the way to redline. now it starts bleeding off at about 4.5k and drops down to 10 or below by redline or near it anyway. Like I said, it could be the extreme heat causing the ecu to bleed it off, but I'm not sure.
#6
which brings me back to another thought...
how effective is your intercooler misting setup? how effective do you think it would be on a stock IC setup. As discussed a while ago I was thinking of using the stock pump and plumbing for IC misting and hooking it up to a boost controlled switch. I figure I could do the whole setup for about $30. I'm not quite to the hp or mod range for an FMIC yet. We don't usually have a week of 100+ deg days like lately.
#7
it will help...but >>>
i am not sure if the gains on a stock chip would be worth it...if you were chipped, then cooling the oem coolers, depending on climate, could be a cost effective cooling solution...IMO
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#8
It'll work....>
But honestly, my car runs so cool now I rarely if ever trigger the misters. They're more of a novelty now than an effective day to day solution. If you decide to mist, get the proper nozzels though. You want MIST, not dribbles!
#9
yeah, I've already sourced the parts...
but I should have written it all down. basicaly just 2 mister nozzles, a check valve so it doesn't drain the tank, an adjustable boost switch and an override switch to turn it off. figured it would be the cheap solution for running at track events. gotta save my money for the APR chip! or more likely a timing belt change soon.
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