SereniTTy

and they do not have instructions for the rear bushings (front yes, rear no). I currently have the 1/2 kit installed, and the bushings are adjusted all the way in. This gives my -1.7? on the drivers side and -2.1 on the passenger side (which Mr. Tire tells me is in Audi's spec) Also my toe is out by a very small amount. So I will be installing the other half of the kit and I want to know what the adjustment procedure is. I assume you start by using up all the lower control arm adjustment you can, then use the upper arm to finish it off, which is fine for camber, but how does the toe adjustment work?

TIA,
Dan

TTagz

The rest of the toe adjustment must be made on the trailing arms themselves.

.4 degrees seems like a bit too much of cross camber. I would try to get that closer.

TTschwing

You really won't be able to adjust toe with the addition of an upper set of Kmacs. Here's the procedure for a full set though...

With the top kmacs set to neutral (mid point), set camber with the lowers.

Now adjust both top and bottom IN or OUT the same amount (keeping camber the same) until proper toe is achieved.

In your situation, you have two options for toe... Swap your Kmacs to the top and put adjustable arms on the bottom to give you more range or, use the slots at the trailing arm mounting plate to get your toe correct. While your Camber is within the spec range, keep in mind that range is broad because there is NO factory adjustment. Experiments and experience here would put ideal camber between -1.6 and -1.8...

SereniTTy

the drivers side to -2.0 or so. But I don't want that much camber on both sides.

Pity, this wasn't supposed to happen with Bilstein/Eibachs.. Whoops.

SereniTTy

because they had no stretch bolts in stock. Of course I still need to fix the camber. If I use the other half of the K-mac kit to fix the camber, should the toe still be adjustable at the slots?

I really need to get the car on a rack with the full kit in and see what can be done. The guy at Mr Tire told me that he couldn't adjust the camber at all after I told them that the accetric bushings were in there. Thanks for the instructions, I really wanted something to take to the alignment tech on my next try.

Thanks,
Dan

TTschwing

They didn't know how to adjust the Kmacs? You should be able to get within a desirable spec at that drop...Adding the tops will definitely allow that.

The slotting at the Trailing arms is then good for the toe, but sometimes your average alignment shop is not real savvy about this. Audi uses a "special" tool and sometimes this freaks them out, though it can be done without..

TTagz

special tools, and blah, blah, blah. I was way out of camber and toe on the front because it had been previously aligned with a slightly bent strut. I was down to the last night before a 1800 mile road trip and aligned the front end myself using a tape measure, a carpenter's level, and no special tools. It hasn't had any bad tire wear since. my camber is still off on the right front because the subframe needs to be shifted. I wish I had access to an alignment rack so I could do the whole thing myself.

SereniTTy

I took it to be aligned. When I gave them the keys I explained that I had excentric bushings installed to fix the camber (I didn't think toe would be an issue with only the bottom set installed). When they were done they looked at me blankly when I asked what they had been able to do with the K-macs.

So I will be installing the upper K-mac (which I already have) and will be taking it to a VW dealer after hours to have front control arm bushings installed and have the car aligned. I'm just trying to make sure that I understand the process in case the VW tech doesn't. If the tech works on R32's he ought to have the tool and some know-how.

Thanks,
Dan

TTschwing

Your toe may be fine once you get the camber set right...