Orbital buffer usage- tips, etc?
#12
That truck looks just like our truck when we got it (94 chevy) hazy paint, etc
I'll tell ya..just used the PC and simple ol' Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax liquid. Looks almost new, got many many of the scratchs. Just took my time.
I'm sure the results are not as good as your results (with wet sand, etc). But it was impressive. Lets put it this way, my wife thought it was re-painted, (since the color was SOO much deeper). Close up, you can see the scratches that it couldn't remove. But I didn't use any polish at all. (too lazy, and it is just a truck)
Paul
I'm sure the results are not as good as your results (with wet sand, etc). But it was impressive. Lets put it this way, my wife thought it was re-painted, (since the color was SOO much deeper). Close up, you can see the scratches that it couldn't remove. But I didn't use any polish at all. (too lazy, and it is just a truck)
Paul
#13
Hey Lexx....would you mind giving some bullet-points for your procedure?
I'm particularly interested in the application vs. take-off. Are there differences in the way you use the polisher? Which pads do you use for each. Things to watch out for?
When mine comes, I'm going to start on the Volvo for practice since it needs wax and then I'm doing the TT.
When mine comes, I'm going to start on the Volvo for practice since it needs wax and then I'm doing the TT.
#14
My procedure differs on the color of car - lighter (silver, etc) is easier than dark (NG, black)
I know I will be flamed for that ..and the following comments, I'm sure.
But ask Sandra (silver coupe), her car looked better than brand new with the following:
Wash (with Blue Coral wash)
Dry Cali-blade, terry towels
Wax with P.C., with Griots Garage red pad, and Meguiar's liquid Cleaner/Wax.
removal with cotton terry towels (yes US made)
It's a no brainer (on silver). I use the PC on an area until I feel the paint is 'clean' - you can feel it "break loose" when it is clean. I use a small amount (.5 teaspoon at most) on the pad. Put the pad on the car. turn on polisher and work in a small area..back and forth, slowly. the wax should be thin and even, if done right. turn off machine THEN remove it from the car. I do NOT press the polisher onto the paint, as the unit is heavy enough to put enough pressure on it. Put too much pressure, it will slow down, and tire you out (will not burn paint).
Depending on my mood and the time. I will put a second coat of wax on (while first coat is still on)
Let it set a few minutes and wipe off with the terry towel(s), turning frequently.
I havent used it on our N.G. TTR yet, cept for regular wax (same procedure)
But I suspect I will try a quality polish (may try the Griot's garage polish) on our TT then use the wax when the time come (next time maybe)
I have tried on my dark grey Honda, but didn't like the results: Meguiars 3 step program (cleaner, polish, wax). I don't think they are formulated for power. Worked better by hand.
But the darker colors show the imperfections more, so requires a lot more work, IMO.
Have a few light scratches on the TT that I want to tackle sometime soon. So a good clean/polish/ wax is in my near future.
Paul
But ask Sandra (silver coupe), her car looked better than brand new with the following:
Wash (with Blue Coral wash)
Dry Cali-blade, terry towels
Wax with P.C., with Griots Garage red pad, and Meguiar's liquid Cleaner/Wax.
removal with cotton terry towels (yes US made)
It's a no brainer (on silver). I use the PC on an area until I feel the paint is 'clean' - you can feel it "break loose" when it is clean. I use a small amount (.5 teaspoon at most) on the pad. Put the pad on the car. turn on polisher and work in a small area..back and forth, slowly. the wax should be thin and even, if done right. turn off machine THEN remove it from the car. I do NOT press the polisher onto the paint, as the unit is heavy enough to put enough pressure on it. Put too much pressure, it will slow down, and tire you out (will not burn paint).
Depending on my mood and the time. I will put a second coat of wax on (while first coat is still on)
Let it set a few minutes and wipe off with the terry towel(s), turning frequently.
I havent used it on our N.G. TTR yet, cept for regular wax (same procedure)
But I suspect I will try a quality polish (may try the Griot's garage polish) on our TT then use the wax when the time come (next time maybe)
I have tried on my dark grey Honda, but didn't like the results: Meguiars 3 step program (cleaner, polish, wax). I don't think they are formulated for power. Worked better by hand.
But the darker colors show the imperfections more, so requires a lot more work, IMO.
Have a few light scratches on the TT that I want to tackle sometime soon. So a good clean/polish/ wax is in my near future.
Paul
#15
Interesting....so you only use the PC to put the wax on, not take it off???
I figured the PC would make taking it off a lot easier so you'd do both with it. Is there any reason you wouldn't use the PC to take the wax off too?
#16
the wax is soooo thin..no reason for power take off..I did have my eye on the GG wax removal bonnett
But by hand is wicked easy. I have found no reason to do it by power.
I have often wished to have power to take off wax when I waxed by hand. But no more.
I have often wished to have power to take off wax when I waxed by hand. But no more.
#18
LOL, I'm such a sucker....ordered the Viper microfiber removal bonnet....silly but true.
<ul><li><a href="http://shop.store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/bufpol.html">http://shop.store.yahoo.com/classic-motoring/bufpol.html</a</li></ul>
#19
Well, it was answered a few times below, I think, but here goes anyway...
I only use the random-orbit buffer to apply wax/glaze. I take it off by hand.
High speed buffers are used for both at the same time. Applying until the material spreads out and breaks down, then working the buffer until the is almost no material left. Not a good tool in the hands of a novice, though.
High speed buffers are used for both at the same time. Applying until the material spreads out and breaks down, then working the buffer until the is almost no material left. Not a good tool in the hands of a novice, though.
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