Persistent rattle in the front
#1
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Persistent rattle in the front
Hi All,
My gf and I bought this beautiful 2004 TT-S. 101k miles, 3.2l with DSG.
It's been great, but unfortunately on the long trip back home it decided to get a little rattle in the front end that wasn't there on the test drive! And 2 more front cv boots tore on the way home. Of course, right?! So after getting it home and tearing apart the front end, I have replaced:
- Front Struts
- Strut Mounts
- Strut Mount Bearings
- CV Boots on both front axles
- Outer Tie Rods
- Lower Engine Mount
I have removed and redone the front struts 3 or 4 times, it just seems like too simple a system. It doesn't seem like it should work. And when I jack up the car, the small amount of space in between the top cup and the body disappears. Is it supposed to be like that? I can't see how it could mount any other way. Are there other things I could be missing? The front end links seem tight, are they usually an issue? The control arms have slight cracking in the back mounting point rubber, but nothing worrisome. I have replacement control arms and control arm ball joints but I can't see how to remove the inner joint bolt without undoing all the engine/trans mounts and jacking the engine up. It seems like Audi did not give that area enough space.
Any advice or input would be appreciated. Thanks!
My gf and I bought this beautiful 2004 TT-S. 101k miles, 3.2l with DSG.
It's been great, but unfortunately on the long trip back home it decided to get a little rattle in the front end that wasn't there on the test drive! And 2 more front cv boots tore on the way home. Of course, right?! So after getting it home and tearing apart the front end, I have replaced:
- Front Struts
- Strut Mounts
- Strut Mount Bearings
- CV Boots on both front axles
- Outer Tie Rods
- Lower Engine Mount
I have removed and redone the front struts 3 or 4 times, it just seems like too simple a system. It doesn't seem like it should work. And when I jack up the car, the small amount of space in between the top cup and the body disappears. Is it supposed to be like that? I can't see how it could mount any other way. Are there other things I could be missing? The front end links seem tight, are they usually an issue? The control arms have slight cracking in the back mounting point rubber, but nothing worrisome. I have replacement control arms and control arm ball joints but I can't see how to remove the inner joint bolt without undoing all the engine/trans mounts and jacking the engine up. It seems like Audi did not give that area enough space.
Any advice or input would be appreciated. Thanks!
#2
I can only address the strut issue. Go to page two here under MK1 and look for my entry "Change the top hat on a strut". A member offered a great photo of the tech page on the strut assembly that COULD help.
#4
One area that can cause a rattle that is difficult to find is the anti roll bar links. If you put the car in the air to diagnose you must raise both sides and even then a slight variation in struts side to site can place the bar under tension and hide the wear in its small ball joints.
A bit of gap ( say, 1/4” ) in the top strut mounts is normal and yes it drops and goes away when you jack up the car. If more like 1/2” then consider replacement of the cushions.
Cracking of the rear control arm bushings is very common ( inevitable) keep an eye on it but it is not likely your rattle source. ( you’d probably describe it as a heavy knock if happening there)
Good Luck. Really handsome car BTW.
A bit of gap ( say, 1/4” ) in the top strut mounts is normal and yes it drops and goes away when you jack up the car. If more like 1/2” then consider replacement of the cushions.
Cracking of the rear control arm bushings is very common ( inevitable) keep an eye on it but it is not likely your rattle source. ( you’d probably describe it as a heavy knock if happening there)
Good Luck. Really handsome car BTW.
#5
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will simply disconnect them when I get home and test drive it then. Thanks. Then replace the ball joint on the control arm.
Any tips on how to remove the entire control arm? It seems Audi designed that system for the 4cyl and there is no way to remove that inner bolt. There isn't enough space. Do I have to drop the subframe or raise the motor or trans?
Any tips on how to remove the entire control arm? It seems Audi designed that system for the 4cyl and there is no way to remove that inner bolt. There isn't enough space. Do I have to drop the subframe or raise the motor or trans?
#6
I will simply disconnect them when I get home and test drive it then. Thanks. Then replace the ball joint on the control arm.
Any tips on how to remove the entire control arm? It seems Audi designed that system for the 4cyl and there is no way to remove that inner bolt. There isn't enough space. Do I have to drop the subframe or raise the motor or trans?
Any tips on how to remove the entire control arm? It seems Audi designed that system for the 4cyl and there is no way to remove that inner bolt. There isn't enough space. Do I have to drop the subframe or raise the motor or trans?
Trending Topics
#8
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I removed the sway bar end links (anti roll bar links) and the noise went away. Great. So I reinstalled them because I dont want the sway bar smacking the control arm and then replaced the control arm ball joints. The noise is still gone. So that's odd, but I am glad the noise is gone and ordered new end links regardless. So maybe it was the control arm ball joints or the end links or some combination of them.
Unfortunately last night was a bit of bad luck, or good luck depending on how you see it, and we hit a pot hole and blew a tire out at the bead, 4" long split. Very hilarious because I was actually not speeding and the pothole was very mild. The tire must have been already compromised. I'm glad this didn't happen on our 1200 mile road trip to the middle of nowhere next weekend. Replaced with Bridgestone Driveguard run flats because of the lack of a spare. Does the 1.8 have a donut in the wheel well in the trunk? The 3.2 has a battery there.
Unfortunately last night was a bit of bad luck, or good luck depending on how you see it, and we hit a pot hole and blew a tire out at the bead, 4" long split. Very hilarious because I was actually not speeding and the pothole was very mild. The tire must have been already compromised. I'm glad this didn't happen on our 1200 mile road trip to the middle of nowhere next weekend. Replaced with Bridgestone Driveguard run flats because of the lack of a spare. Does the 1.8 have a donut in the wheel well in the trunk? The 3.2 has a battery there.
#9
Good news on the noise. Though mysterious.
Yes the 1.8s have a spare. My two cars have 160,000 miles and 60,000 miles on them and neither spare has ever been down. I do carry a plugging kit and a 12 V compressor with me though and I think I have used it maybe twice over those miles. Have used it more on friends cars on group drives.
Yes the 1.8s have a spare. My two cars have 160,000 miles and 60,000 miles on them and neither spare has ever been down. I do carry a plugging kit and a 12 V compressor with me though and I think I have used it maybe twice over those miles. Have used it more on friends cars on group drives.