nordic_b

Hello,

This is my 1st post here, but I don't have the TT yet. I hope this post in right section.

I'm planning to go this weekend to have a look at the car, which is 225 version. The problem is that seller tries to prove the model is 2001, however DVLA check and number plates say it is 1999. I wonder is there any way to check this being right beside the car, were any significant changes done during the 2 year period since 1999?

On the same note, I wonder if owners could kindly advise on what to look for, as I have never had a TT before and not aware of it's specifics, weaknesses, etc, can only do a general check. I'd appreciate any advice very much.

Another question is on engines. 225's were BAM and APX, which is newer/better? Or say, has less to get broken? is this code written anywhere on the engine and possible to determine, or there are other means to determine.

Thank you!
Art

Cruzad3r

don't buy any TT that's not 02 or higher. hell you can buy an 04/05 for some decent price. also look into CPO as it will save you money in the long run. 225 version with 6spds are the best (to me) because you can mod the engine to get extra oomph. though be careful the TT is not a race car unless you want to go big turbo to get the most HP. The engine code is written on the block, on the side where the timing belt cover is. you have to get the engine cover out to see it. i have an AMU and it's fine. newer car will have have VVTI. Check APR.com for all the engine code.

things to look for other than complete maintanance history is sign of mods. cluster to see if it still showing all the pixel. if you're buying CPO, timing belt job is not neccessary because CPO will cover your engine if it failed due to tensioner failure. bottomline get CPO.

TTQ2k2

No need to avoid 2000-2001, but always best to buy newest/lowest mileage you can afford.

Check vin for model year: the 10th digit. US TTs begin in 2000, not 1999. 2000 = letter Y. 2001 = number 1. 2002 = number 2, and so on thru 2006 = number 6.

225 hp, 6 spd began in model year 2001 for US. All US 2000s were 180 hp 5spds as I recall. Auto 180s began in 2001 too. There are no 225 autos in any year.

Cruzad3r

i'm sure you're on the other forums and you know how much these car worth these days. also 2000 and 2001 have more chances with electrical issues than later model. so like you said - buy new with low mile to the price that you can afford.

AudiMick

At 65,000 miles you are in the window for a timing belt replacement. Costs around $800 at an independent and up to $1500 at a dealer.

You will get about 5 seconds warning if the tensioner fails and destroys the motor.

So make sure it is done.If you don't have proof it has been done (maybe a receipt) assume it isn't. Belt, tensioner, water pump and thermostat.

All TTs have electrical gremlins,par for the course, I have friends with 2002-2005 models that have had all sorts of radio, lighting, cluster haldex controller problems. The list goes on.

Over the last 18 months I have had ESP light on, CEL for a MAF and Airbag light in cold weather, fuel sensor level.

All known common problems. The first three went away on their own + MAF clean and the last one I cleaned the sender. Such is the life of a TT owner.

TTQ2k2

I've got an 01 now and it is no worse than my 02 or 05 were....it's just my favorite color and older. ;-)

TTQ2k2

Uhhhhhh, cuz we sometimes miss the forest for the trees???

T-belt/water pump is TTs achilles heel. FWIW, when I picked up my 01 w/67k miles, I drove it home (10 miles), parked it, made appt with indy shop for 2-days later, drove to indy shop (12 miles) and had TB/water pump, etc replaced.

After inspection, OEM TB was still in good shape and could have gone several thousand miles from the look of it...but WP fell apart in mechanics hands.

Get'em changed per audimick's advice.

Cruzad3r

hence i keep saying buy CPO - if you're buying a newer car say 05 and above, you're getting protected regardless (from dealer, not private). also and this is my own experience - i bought my car under CPO- didn't change the dam timing belt till 80K+ and everything still good. i still have parts in case you guys don't believe me.

i'm sure lots of conservative guys will argue about this fact. again do what best for you. dont let people sway you to their opinions because they have people follow them on the internet. the TT is not a problem free child, it's a frikin German lol so you will have your chance with them. My TT has been very good to me. original cluster, on second set of coil packs, second MAF (first one paid by warranty) tons of mods everything except 42 Down Pipe. Revo chips for 60K+ miles and no issue. I also do all my mods and maintenance which help out a lot. the only thing i've paid is the timing belt. so there, unless you're willing to work on the car yourself, don't buy it. if you're lucky, you'll get a least trouble TT but if you're not, oh man you're going to hate yourself ESPECIALLY when you're bringing it to the dealer instead of working on it yourself.

AudiMick

I think the original poster might be in the UK as he mentioned DVLA and "number plates".

CPO might not be an option.

I agree that if you want to own any used European car DIY skills may be required. I negotiated a timing belt change as part of the purchase of my 2001. Although I have changed a few belts on Audis, I decided to let the shop do it this time.

seeandbe

You're better off with the later models. I personally would suggest getting the car professionally inspected by one of those mobile inspection companies like AiM Mobile Inspections or Carchex. It'll give you some peace of mind with the vehicle you want. Hope that helps!