Replacing rotors - do I have to replace the pads too?
03-18-2003, 01:28 PM
#1
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Replacing rotors - do I have to replace the pads too?
Braking gives my '01 TT the shakes real bad. I replaced the front pads with Mintex Redbox without turning the rotors at about 28k. Then they worked great... 7k miles later though, its aweful... I think the rotors need to be replaced. The Mintex pads are still in great shape but if I'm replacing the rotors do I have to replace the pads too?
03-18-2003, 01:43 PM
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Hey Jeff:
I used your pics to do the relay switch thingy to run my Delphi XM unit into my changer inputs. The changer works great but when the relay is switched to the XM unit I get a lot of noise. Also, I have to have a CD playing in order for it to work is there any way of eliminating that.
03-18-2003, 01:43 PM
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Re: I would. That would eliminate the possibility the pads are bad also.
Troo. But would running the original pads for a few days on the new rotors possible mess up the new rotors if the pads were bad?
03-18-2003, 01:44 PM
#5
It is always a good idea to refinish (aka 'turn') rotors when replacing pads IF>>>
you have more than 10K miles but beware to make sure the rotors turned are still within spec (thickness). Simply the issue is that pads and rotors wear or mate to each other...mate meaning taking on the characteristic shape of the point of contact of pad to rotor..now think about replacing a pad that has a smooth surface new and it contacting a rotor surface that has ridges and valleys (run your finger nail accross rotor and you will see what I mean) and vice versa replacing a rotor with a used pad. So yes replace rotor but if you still have a within spec pad (thickness wise)rub down pad surface with emory cloth to smooth, clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and install...
03-18-2003, 02:00 PM
#7
Where did you grab power for this?
You used a relay, like my details show?
Problem: in order to provide the protcol that keeps the input open through the 'mode' switch, a CD needs to be playing, yes.
If you want to eliminate the chager, but still provide for an input, you need the BlitzSafe adapter then.
Problem: in order to provide the protcol that keeps the input open through the 'mode' switch, a CD needs to be playing, yes.
If you want to eliminate the chager, but still provide for an input, you need the BlitzSafe adapter then.
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03-18-2003, 03:08 PM
#10
no, not really...I don't have a diagram...
Where did you get power from?
I assume you used shielded cable?
Did you tie proper grounds together?
It's difficult to diagnose this, without knowing what you've done.
I assume you used shielded cable?
Did you tie proper grounds together?
It's difficult to diagnose this, without knowing what you've done.