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tCarbon 180 FMIC Install

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Old 08-14-2007, 01:31 PM
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Default tCarbon 180 FMIC Install

As you may have seen I've spent some time the past couple days installing the relatively new tCarbon FMIC kit for the 180 motor. Here's a little write-up on how the install went. Click on any image for a larger version.

Here's what was in the box. This kit uses the crossover pipe present (but not used on 180s) to route the charge air. Due to minor shipping damage I was missing some mounting hardware (nuts/bolts).
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1303/1118018820_0a056f1f29_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1303/1118018820_0a056f1f29.jpg" alt="P8090004.JPG" /></a>

After consulting with Tylor I was able to procure the correct missing hardware locally. Note the 42DD MAP sensor mount and alien feed line plug in the baggies. The short 1" hose with the plug and 2 clamps is to plug the charge line for the DV relo
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1071/1118017054_8da1054b3d_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1071/1118017054_8da1054b3d.jpg" alt="P8090005.JPG" /></a>

1st thing is to take the front bumper cover off. There are several writups on how to do that but I liked this one <a href="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3384243">here</a> due to it being a little more concise.

After the bumper cover is off remove the passenger headlight assembly (3 torx screw) then the inlet hose from the SMIC to the throttle body and unmount the MAP sensor from the SMIC
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1238/1117999864_2ad9e402a1_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1238/1117999864_2ad9e402a1.jpg" alt="P8120003.JPG" /></a>

Next remove the SMIC and associated plastic air ducting. Undo the clamps to the pancake pipe and joiner hose.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1345/1117162095_58473b22cd_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1345/1117162095_58473b22cd.jpg" alt="P8120004.JPG" /></a>

There are 3 10mm bolts holding the SMIC on, 2 top 1 bottom, access them from the front. Save these (I needed to reuse 2).
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/1117162541_db6a25c36a_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/1117162541_db6a25c36a.jpg" alt="P8120005.JPG" /></a>

Next install the 2 Z-brackets from the kit by removing the upper inside bumper support bolts and mounting as shown. You can remove the bumper before you do the Z-brackets but I didn't.

driver side
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/1117163047_49cc699608_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1198/1117163047_49cc699608.jpg" alt="P8120006.JPG" /></a>

passenger side
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1305/1118001820_3ca9e69ad0_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1305/1118001820_3ca9e69ad0.jpg" alt="P8120007.JPG" /></a>

If you haven't yet, remove the bumper by undoing the long bolts on each side.

Install the IC tank top support bracket to the Z-brackets as shown. I used 1 bolt, 2 washers (f/r) and a nylock nut on each side. Note which bracket goes where. The top bracket is the one <b>without</b> the tabs on the end.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1134/1117164755_5479190b18_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1134/1117164755_5479190b18.jpg" alt="P8120009.JPG" /></a>

The bottom support bracket attaches to the radiator housing at the bottom corners. On mine the mounting holes were present but no bolts so I reused 2 of the SMIC mounting bolts. Note again the bottom bracket should have 'tabs' on each end. If things don't seem to be lining up try swaping the brackets (top/bottom). Mine fit perfectly.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1132/1118003422_9793a94896_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1132/1118003422_9793a94896.jpg" alt="P8120010.JPG" /></a>

When you're finished with those 3 steps it should look something like this:
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/1118002622_e53c9d2894_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/1118002622_e53c9d2894.jpg" alt="P8120008.JPG" /></a>

Next install the tank using 6 sets of bolts/washers
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1170/1118004304_8774af89b0_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1170/1118004304_8774af89b0.jpg" alt="P8120012.JPG" /></a>

On mine there was a gap on the top and bottom between the IC tank mounts and the brackets. I used a washer to fill them in.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1215/1118004780_f3c3b1ea65_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1215/1118004780_f3c3b1ea65.jpg" alt="P8120013.JPG" /></a>

Before attaching any of the silicone tubing I used a Shop Vac in reverse to blow out my metal cross pipe. A bunch of dust/dirt came out so I'd highly recommend it!

Then the elbow piece can be attached between the pancake pipe and cross pipe. It will be obvious which way the tube goes on. If it doesn't seem to fit turn it around.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1239/1117167465_cf712ef916_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1239/1117167465_cf712ef916.jpg" alt="P8120015.JPG" /></a>

Make sure the ends are on and get under the car to tighten the T-bolt clamp to the cross pipe. You'll have to remove the plastic belly pan if you haven't already.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1390/1117169303_3c01554a16_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1390/1117169303_3c01554a16.jpg" alt="P8120019.JPG" /></a>

Next connect the 'U' shaped tube between the driver side of the cross pipe and IC tank end. The long end of the tube goes on the cross pipe.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1003/1118006176_c8f8db13c0_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1003/1118006176_c8f8db13c0.jpg" alt="P8120016.JPG" /></a>

Again make sure the tube is securely on the pipe. I had to do a little work to get it over the cross pipe enough.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1409/1117168771_e87b02b17f_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1409/1117168771_e87b02b17f.jpg" alt="P8120018.JPG" /></a>

Now attach the long piece to the outlet of the tank and feed it up toward the intake. At this point I just test fit the final inlet tube to the throttle body.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1256/1118008828_a1fdb66ddf_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1256/1118008828_a1fdb66ddf.jpg" alt="P8120023.JPG" /></a>

After much test fitting I came to the conclusion that this was the best arrangement for the coupling and T-bolt clamps. Remember everything must be oriented so as not to interfere with the headlight.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1370/1117171067_09af95bbe5_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1370/1117171067_09af95bbe5.jpg" alt="P8130024.JPG" /></a>

I used a little teflon tape to seal around the MAP sensor screws
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1318/1118009710_fb14094d93_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1318/1118009710_fb14094d93.jpg" alt="P8130025.JPG" /></a>

Tighten everything down
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1287/1117171995_fe49848e4d_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1287/1117171995_fe49848e4d.jpg" alt="P8130028.JPG" /></a>

DV relo hookup
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1020/1118012078_a92fbf282d_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1020/1118012078_a92fbf282d.jpg" alt="P8130032.JPG" /></a>

Other end
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1309/1118012580_8fbe2fe11d_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1309/1118012580_8fbe2fe11d.jpg" alt="P8130033.JPG" /></a>

Note that I did not use the supplied charge port plug. I removed the metal plug from the supplied assembly and used it to plug the OEM line. That way it's easy to switch back if I need to.
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1038/1118013312_684cdf3722_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1038/1118013312_684cdf3722.jpg" alt="P8130034.JPG" /></a>

I had a hard time finding a good spot for the horns. For now they're here in the driver side SMIC location
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1440/1117177263_4b6b276914_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1440/1117177263_4b6b276914.jpg" alt="P8140038.JPG" /></a>

Capped alien feed
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1294/1117177655_f8944ecef2_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1294/1117177655_f8944ecef2.jpg" alt="P8140039.JPG" /></a>

The coolant tank cover needs trimming
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1099/1118016150_cff7b57d39_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1099/1118016150_cff7b57d39.jpg" alt="P8140040.JPG" /></a>

New toothy grin
<a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1367/1118016636_c7ca28e8e0_b.jpg"><img src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1367/1118016636_c7ca28e8e0.jpg" alt="P8140041.JPG" /></a>

I plan to post my performance impressions later. For now I am re-calibrating the Boost Machine but at this point haven't noticed any turbo lag alluded to in another thread.
Old 08-14-2007, 01:55 PM
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Nice job! Please add to the FAQ....:-)
Old 08-14-2007, 02:01 PM
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Great work! Nice writeup too.
Old 08-14-2007, 03:11 PM
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Default Nice writeup. My APR made a HUGE difference...>>

I have to turn the BM down 1.5 turns as I was overboosting.

I also didn't have to trim the coolant cover. Is it because of the DV relo?
Old 08-14-2007, 03:43 PM
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Default Yes the DV interferes with the tab on the side

according to Tylor a 225 cover will fit without modification.

Wow 1.5 turns on the BM? That seems really low. I'm at 3.5 now and hitting 16 PSI. Before I had it at 5.5 to get 18.
Old 08-14-2007, 04:28 PM
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I'm at 3.5 turns and boost to 17psi peak to 20.
Old 08-14-2007, 04:49 PM
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Ah I misread, thx
Old 08-14-2007, 06:34 PM
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Looks great. What would you say hours wise it took to install?
Old 08-14-2007, 06:51 PM
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Default Good write-up. You may also want to disconnect power plug to lower pump on wash fluid tank.

If you wash your windshield, you risk activating the alien pump, blowing off its hose, and draining out the washer fluid. (How would I know that?)
You can access washer pump by removing a few screws from fender liner behind wheel.
Old 08-14-2007, 07:12 PM
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Hey, which cross pipe had all the dust and dirt in it? Thanks!


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