javanator

Are you using the power bleeder with fluid in the bleeder itself? Or just using it as a pump only while attached to the MC cap? I use mine as a pump only, having found that having fluid in the bleeder just causes too much of a mess for me. Used as a pump only, you have to bleed a little out of each corner, depressurize the pump SLOWLY to add additional fluid into the MC, then repressurize to bleed again -- slower method but works just fine for me with no mess or cleanup.

If you re-bleed (yet again!), and you use your power bleeder as I do, be less aggressive on how much fluid you bleed between refilling the MC.

Helped my buddy two weekends ago replace rotors/pads, and do a brake fluid flush on his B6S4. He has an auto, so no clutch slave to worry about. After swapping rotors/pads, we bled/flushed the system with the power bleeder. He could not get any firmness in his pedal when pumping it. We went ahead and re-bled the system in the opposite wheels sequence we bled the first time, but less aggressively on the amount of fluid versus the first bleed sequence. On the third corner we ran into massive air bubbles in the line. As I suspected, we were too aggressive with the amount of fluid we were bleeding the first time causing too much fluid to leave the MC and introducing air into the line before closing the bleed valve and topping it back up. I also had him open the bleed valve to a more "wide-open" position vs a "cracked" position on the second bleed, thinking the faster the fluids flows, the better success we would have flushing any air bubbles out of the lines.

javanator

Agreed. Read my post above where I found this to be true.

diagnosticator1

Brake fluid will rinse away easily with hot water. So, after use, flushing/rinsing the power bleeder with hot water and then air drying is not a problem. Just offered as an optional approach. :&gt

javanator

Thanks for the tip! That's really useful to know.

My problem with using the bleeder as a fluid reservoir was the mess it made after the bleeding process is done, and you disconnect the connection between the bleeder and the MC at the MC cap. Brake fluid spills out and the MC is overfilled (overfilling is easy to solve).

When I had one of my front wheel bearings replaced at Futrell's Bellevue shop (now closed), I talked to their tech there about the mess it made and any tips on how to use it (I saw a Motive Power Bleeder in their shop tool racks). He said that in the B6, the MC is slightly angled down towards the rear-side of the car, which contributes to the spillage when you disconnect the bleeder. He liked to use the bleeder with the rear of the car elevated higher than the front of the car using the shop lift -- as high as he could get it the better. This method is not conveniently doable for the weekend DIY'er, as we only have the use floor jacks (usually one only) and jack stands, and removal of the wheels makes bleeding much easier physically.

I only experienced the fluid spillage at disconnect when doing my Avant. On my older MY Honda, I had no problems whatsoever with spillage using the Motive Bleeder w/Universal connector/fitting.

Maybe your method eliminates the mess I experienced with my bleeder -- you usually have good tips on better ways to use tools and accessories

diagnosticator1

with the normal reservoir cap replaced with a non vented version. This avoids the spillage you experience using the cap as the fill port.
The cap fill is the only practical method for us owners regardless.

CO AVANT

lots of paper towels surrounding the reservoir you take disconnect the connection quickly then lift and turn over the connector so the fluid goes back into the bleeder resevoir. I've done it this way a hundred times now and never had much if any spillage onto and underneith the brake booster...

Well even after what I thought was all the air out of the system, the pedal is still dropping to the floor without effort. grrr. I think I might have popped the seals in the new MC by pumping the brake pedal too much or something. I've bled over 5 gal of fluid through and still no pedal. Even Bled twice starting at the MC, then ABS, then clutch slave, then brakes (while tapping on the abs and MC with a rubber mallet to try to free trapped bubbles) Rockauto is going to send me a new MC since I feel the one I bought from them wasn't working right to begin with. I'm going to try my original one again while I wait for the new one. It wasn't fully failed to begin with so I should still have some brake modulation with it... Fvcking air!

CO AVANT

No brake fluid in the booster. The brake fluid is not getting by the piston on either the new or old unit.

GreenMonsterA4

I installed all new brakes, with S4's up front and stainless lines. I am having the same exact issue as you are. havent figured out what is going on!

Abcaudi

Hi everyone, please someone help me with a question.

I replaced the master cylinder, and after installing, my brake pedal was HARD and with 0 brake function. So i pushed harder, and i heard a click sound, and still 0 brake but the pedal went in a few mm.

So i took out the MC again and i could not push the thing that you push in with the booster, it was Hard, and i tried do hit it in and it went in but not back out again, so i probably destroyed the spring inside the MC.

Then i checked the booster rod, and my question is, should the rod be loose, moveable up down side to side? or should it be hard solid only pointing straight forward?

If solid, what could have been wrong here?