BATTERY REPLACEMENT (HELP)
02-25-2015, 10:42 AM
#12
AudiWorld Super User
I replace my battery without VCDS, here is how I did it:
1. Jump start the car, replace the battery when car is running.
2. Need to be very careful for the Positive and Negative cable.
3. Don't try is at home unless you know what you are doing.
4. No need the VCDS, even I do have one now.
I did all my car with this way so I don't lose the previous setting.
Again you take you own risk !!
1. Jump start the car, replace the battery when car is running.
2. Need to be very careful for the Positive and Negative cable.
3. Don't try is at home unless you know what you are doing.
4. No need the VCDS, even I do have one now.
I did all my car with this way so I don't lose the previous setting.
Again you take you own risk !!
On A8/S8 you won't loose any setting anyways.
You need VCDS if you want your Power Management to work properly right away.
02-25-2015, 07:06 PM
#13
AudiWorld Super User
I replace my battery without VCDS, here is how I did it:
1. Jump start the car, replace the battery when car is running.
2. Need to be very careful for the Positive and Negative cable.
3. Don't try is at home unless you know what you are doing.
4. No need the VCDS, even I do have one now.
I did all my car with this way so I don't lose the previous setting.
Again you take you own risk !!
1. Jump start the car, replace the battery when car is running.
2. Need to be very careful for the Positive and Negative cable.
3. Don't try is at home unless you know what you are doing.
4. No need the VCDS, even I do have one now.
I did all my car with this way so I don't lose the previous setting.
Again you take you own risk !!
02-25-2015, 07:14 PM
#14
AudiWorld Super User
This is one of the worst advises I ever heard! Never ever disconnect and reconnect battery while engine is running. That can and will burn your alternator.
On A8/S8 you won't loose any setting anyways.
You need VCDS if you want your Power Management to work properly right away.
On A8/S8 you won't loose any setting anyways.
You need VCDS if you want your Power Management to work properly right away.
02-25-2015, 08:17 PM
#15
AudiWorld Super User
Jeez, what a kill joy! ;/
Come on, its only like a thousand buck (new) alternator and maybe 8 or 10 hours of fun and joy to deal with it given how tangled up it is with the cooling stuff and motor mount. And after all it does take a minute to reset the clock, or two or three if it happens to throw the date off by one digit. 
Even better make it a trifecta: while changing out the battery and in theory running it via temporary alternator power while avoiding some impromptu aluminum welding and/or (it only takes once) science fun with hydrogen, also update the MMI...since that doesn't need VCDS either...using a "free" download scraped from the web, especially 4140. Now we're really cooking with gas!
Even better make it a trifecta: while changing out the battery and in theory running it via temporary alternator power while avoiding some impromptu aluminum welding and/or (it only takes once) science fun with hydrogen, also update the MMI...since that doesn't need VCDS either...using a "free" download scraped from the web, especially 4140. Now we're really cooking with gas!
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-26-2015 at 02:08 PM.
02-25-2015, 10:00 PM
#16
AudiWorld Senior Member
I recently fitted an AGM Varta silver battery that's good for start stop cars so it's designed for a hard life, I then left the car for two months, and when I came back to it, it had run the battery down to the point we she just started.
So if you want hassle free starting I can recommend that battery.
The other thing you could do once you get vcds is put the battery manager in transport mode which shuts down a lot of the systems so the battery will last for longer periods of inactivity.
Download the manual for vcds from there website, it's all explained in there and loads more besides.
So if you want hassle free starting I can recommend that battery.
The other thing you could do once you get vcds is put the battery manager in transport mode which shuts down a lot of the systems so the battery will last for longer periods of inactivity.
Download the manual for vcds from there website, it's all explained in there and loads more besides.
Last edited by haggisuk; 02-27-2015 at 02:05 AM.
03-02-2015, 07:48 AM
#17
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
I finally got the VCDS scan completed and it shows approximately 20 fault codes. I spoke to Jeff at Ross-tech and he suggested that I should have put an Audi battery in it and went into an explanation as to why the fault codes could be triggered due to the system not recognizing the battery.
So what do I do now?
Here is the battery code reading:
Address 61: Battery Regul. Labels: 4E0-910-181.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 181 C HW: 4E0 915 181 C
Component: J0644 BEM H12 0550
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000011353
Shop #: WSC 22302 444 69768
VCID: 204FDF39F34049214E0-8075
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 4E0 915 105 A
Component: von VA0 JOVPKR9632
Coding: 34453039313531303541205641304A4F56504B5239363332
Shop #: WSC 22302 444 69768
5 Faults Found:
02272 - Quiescent Current Stage 1
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 21:15:53
02273 - Quiescent Current Stage 2
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 17:36:46
02276 - Quiescent Current Stage 5
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 17:34:46
So what do I do now?
Here is the battery code reading:
Address 61: Battery Regul. Labels: 4E0-910-181.lbl
Part No SW: 4E0 910 181 C HW: 4E0 915 181 C
Component: J0644 BEM H12 0550
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000011353
Shop #: WSC 22302 444 69768
VCID: 204FDF39F34049214E0-8075
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 4E0 915 105 A
Component: von VA0 JOVPKR9632
Coding: 34453039313531303541205641304A4F56504B5239363332
Shop #: WSC 22302 444 69768
5 Faults Found:
02272 - Quiescent Current Stage 1
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 21:15:53
02273 - Quiescent Current Stage 2
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 17:36:46
02276 - Quiescent Current Stage 5
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 6
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 128302 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.02.22
Time: 17:34:46
Last edited by TFT; 03-02-2015 at 07:54 AM.
03-02-2015, 08:09 AM
#18
AudiWorld Super User
False alarm in my book, and bad Ross-Tech advice as well
This one surprises me w/ the bad Ross-Tech advice thrown on top. (feel free to tell 'em so too).
Those codes are the total plain Jane codes when the power mngt system kicks in to protect the battery. I routinely clear them if I know my battery and charging system is in decent shape. Similar ones about low voltage are often scattered in a variety of other modules too. Same answer.
Let's start over.
1. Replace battery: have you done that? Post started w/ it saying it was 5 years old. Fair assumption is it is crap. Not clear to me that you replaced it; you have to guess it from what I read. And if you did, when? Pete or post the code dates?
2. Code battery to car. If not a dealer battery, change old battery number by one digit. Done?
3. In running codes, do it in two steps. First clear them. Guessing here the scan could (in total) be codes from last week, last month, last year, last ? After you clear them, then rescan whenever later you think problem may have occurred. If you are after battery questions I would suggest a day or a week or a few weeks depending on how often you think the issue is there. The date codes on the errors give a sense of the last issue dates, those last ones being 2/22/15. But, that assumes the date is accurate (sometimes, sometimes not--really old dates tend to be the bigger suspect ones) and gives no indication of the dates it occurred prior to the last error. In thread context, if you changed battery I don't know if that is pre- or post-change either.
With a fresh battery--regardless of vendor--if issues persist, I would investigate sources of power drain as the likelies, not the battery. Again I can't tell if you replaced the battery, but if so the Ross-Tech advice seems poor in that regard too.
Those codes are the total plain Jane codes when the power mngt system kicks in to protect the battery. I routinely clear them if I know my battery and charging system is in decent shape. Similar ones about low voltage are often scattered in a variety of other modules too. Same answer.
Let's start over.
1. Replace battery: have you done that? Post started w/ it saying it was 5 years old. Fair assumption is it is crap. Not clear to me that you replaced it; you have to guess it from what I read. And if you did, when? Pete or post the code dates?
2. Code battery to car. If not a dealer battery, change old battery number by one digit. Done?
3. In running codes, do it in two steps. First clear them. Guessing here the scan could (in total) be codes from last week, last month, last year, last ? After you clear them, then rescan whenever later you think problem may have occurred. If you are after battery questions I would suggest a day or a week or a few weeks depending on how often you think the issue is there. The date codes on the errors give a sense of the last issue dates, those last ones being 2/22/15. But, that assumes the date is accurate (sometimes, sometimes not--really old dates tend to be the bigger suspect ones) and gives no indication of the dates it occurred prior to the last error. In thread context, if you changed battery I don't know if that is pre- or post-change either.
With a fresh battery--regardless of vendor--if issues persist, I would investigate sources of power drain as the likelies, not the battery. Again I can't tell if you replaced the battery, but if so the Ross-Tech advice seems poor in that regard too.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-02-2015 at 08:24 AM.
03-02-2015, 08:24 AM
#19
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
This one surprises me w/ the bad Ross-Tech advice thrown on top. (feel free to tell 'em so too).
Those codes are the total plain Jane codes when the power mngt system kicks in to protect the battery.
Let's start over.
1. Replace battery: have you done that? Post started w/ it saying it was 5 years old. Fair assumption is it is crap. Not clear to me that you replaced it; you have to guess it from what I read.
2. Code battery to car. If not a dealer battery, change old battery number by one digit. Done?
3. In running codes, do it in two steps. First clear them. Period. Guessing here the scan could be codes from last week, last month, last year, last ? After you clear them, then rescan whenever later you think problem may have occurred. If you are after battery questions I would suggest a day or a week or a few weeks depending on how often you think the issue is there. The date codes on the errors give a sense of the issue dates, the last ones being 2/22/15. But, that assumes the date is accurate (sometimes, sometimes not) and gives no indication of the dates it occurred previously. In thread context, if you changed battery I don't know if that is pre or post change either.
With a fresh battery--regardless of vendor--if issues persist, I would investigate sources of power drain as the likelies, not the battery. Again I can't tell if you replaced the battery, but if so the Ross-Tech advice seems poor in that regard too.
Those codes are the total plain Jane codes when the power mngt system kicks in to protect the battery.
Let's start over.
1. Replace battery: have you done that? Post started w/ it saying it was 5 years old. Fair assumption is it is crap. Not clear to me that you replaced it; you have to guess it from what I read.
2. Code battery to car. If not a dealer battery, change old battery number by one digit. Done?
3. In running codes, do it in two steps. First clear them. Period. Guessing here the scan could be codes from last week, last month, last year, last ? After you clear them, then rescan whenever later you think problem may have occurred. If you are after battery questions I would suggest a day or a week or a few weeks depending on how often you think the issue is there. The date codes on the errors give a sense of the issue dates, the last ones being 2/22/15. But, that assumes the date is accurate (sometimes, sometimes not) and gives no indication of the dates it occurred previously. In thread context, if you changed battery I don't know if that is pre or post change either.
With a fresh battery--regardless of vendor--if issues persist, I would investigate sources of power drain as the likelies, not the battery. Again I can't tell if you replaced the battery, but if so the Ross-Tech advice seems poor in that regard too.
Batteries Plus replaced the battery with a Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM SLI95RAGM CCA:950 last Thursday, 2/26.
The coding was just done this morning.
I do not know how to change old battery number, or which number that is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
03-02-2015, 08:30 AM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
Thus for starters...
All those codes then are thus pre-battery change, whether a day (last ones) or a year or who knows how much older. Thus false alarm. Clear all of them and move on from that.
A little frustrating on your second question: type into Google "Coding an Audi battery." Like this: ...Just like sticky #2 and #8 say... What is the first hit you get? This one? Audi A8 (4E) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki
A little frustrating on your second question: type into Google "Coding an Audi battery." Like this: ...Just like sticky #2 and #8 say... What is the first hit you get? This one? Audi A8 (4E) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 03-02-2015 at 08:42 AM.