Need help with oil cooler repair
#1
Need help with oil cooler repair
I have an oil leak out of the oil cooler. The cooler actually twisted a bit as I removed the oil filter during the last change. Also, I seem to be very slowly losing some coolant. However, during the oil change I observed no signs of coolant in the oil (fingers crossed).
My thought was to replace the oil cooler gasket as a potential source of the oil leak plus tighten the coolant hoses as these might be the source of the leak.
The Bentley CD is very disappointing in the limited info and vague diagrams.
There seems to be only one nut holding the cooler. My questions:
What size is this nut and what torque setting should I use on refitting?
Can I avoid pulling off the coolant hoses -- Will the cooler come off the central bolt/stub without taking the hoses off?
There seem to be 2 types of gaskets - with locating tabs and without -- which one do I need?
Do I need to drain all of hte oil or can I just remove the oil filter and let it drain from there until it drops below this level?
My car is a '96 A4 2.8.
Any other tips or things I should watch for?
Thanks,
Byas
My thought was to replace the oil cooler gasket as a potential source of the oil leak plus tighten the coolant hoses as these might be the source of the leak.
The Bentley CD is very disappointing in the limited info and vague diagrams.
There seems to be only one nut holding the cooler. My questions:
What size is this nut and what torque setting should I use on refitting?
Can I avoid pulling off the coolant hoses -- Will the cooler come off the central bolt/stub without taking the hoses off?
There seem to be 2 types of gaskets - with locating tabs and without -- which one do I need?
Do I need to drain all of hte oil or can I just remove the oil filter and let it drain from there until it drops below this level?
My car is a '96 A4 2.8.
Any other tips or things I should watch for?
Thanks,
Byas
#2
AudiWorld Super User
One nut retains the cooler against the O-ring. Tighten to 30 N-m (22 lb-ft). To remove, ...
you'll need to disconnect the cooling hoses (which will drain some of the coolant), remove oil filter, and then the nut/threaded shaft. Its a fairly large nut, probably 22-24 mm, maybe larger. The oil won't drain anymore than what drains when you change the filter (the oil circuit runs thru the cooler, then the filter, and then returns to oil sump).
#5
Re: You'll need a deep socket. You can also use a box or open end wrench.
Can you confirm the size. The service rep (not the tech) told me that it was 27mm, so want to be sure before I go out an buy. Will a 1 1/16" socket work? That may be available more easily.
Thanks!
Happy New Year.
Byas
Thanks!
Happy New Year.
Byas
#6
1 1/16" might be tight -- what about a GatorGrip?
Not sure if they have a deep enough socket.
<img src="http://www.asontvshop.com/gatorgrip.gif">
http://www.asontvshop.com/gatorgrip.gif
Hey, it MIGHT work. ;-)
<img src="http://www.asontvshop.com/gatorgrip.gif">
http://www.asontvshop.com/gatorgrip.gif
Hey, it MIGHT work. ;-)
#7
Re: Need help with oil cooler repair
Thanks for all the inputs. The nut is indeed 27mm, but a 1 1/16" should work just well (not tight).
Of the 2 coolant hoses going to the cooler, the one in front (as you look at the cooler from the direction of the oil filter) is actually a long hose and it seemed to have enough play that it could be left on (but still clamped). The second one is a tight short 90 deg hose. I cid not feel sufficiently comfortable that I would be able to adeuately clamp it and remove/refit this hose easily so did not take the hoses off and did not end up changing the seal. The nut holding the cooler was a bit loose, so I did torque it to spec and then I tightened up the hose clamps as well. I will check again this weekend to see if that eliminated/reduced the leak. If not, then I'll go the whole way (or have dealer/mechanic replace)
Byas
Of the 2 coolant hoses going to the cooler, the one in front (as you look at the cooler from the direction of the oil filter) is actually a long hose and it seemed to have enough play that it could be left on (but still clamped). The second one is a tight short 90 deg hose. I cid not feel sufficiently comfortable that I would be able to adeuately clamp it and remove/refit this hose easily so did not take the hoses off and did not end up changing the seal. The nut holding the cooler was a bit loose, so I did torque it to spec and then I tightened up the hose clamps as well. I will check again this weekend to see if that eliminated/reduced the leak. If not, then I'll go the whole way (or have dealer/mechanic replace)
Byas
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#9
I did a write-up at some point for Mr D. on how to pull the
cooler off. You need to clamp one of the hoses (can't remember which one) and can leave the other one unclamped cuz it's the return and wont drain. It's tight, but you can get it off. Get a small pair of vice grips and wrap the teeth with duct tape so it won't cut the hose, then have at it.
Do a search and you should find my write-up. I don'thave the link off hand.
Do a search and you should find my write-up. I don'thave the link off hand.
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