Blauparts Valve Cover Gasket Kit - Is it me or the kit?

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Old 10-20-2012, 05:18 AM
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Default Blauparts Valve Cover Gasket Kit - Is it me or the kit?

There was a little smoke coming from the passenger-side of the engine. Dealer diagnosed a valve cover gasket leak. I ordered the Blaupart gasket kit. Following the brilliant tech write-up, I replaced both valve cover gaskets and the cam chain tensioner gaskets (half moon and the key). I also replaced replaced the Spider hose and installed a new vented oil filler cap.

Both sides smoked like a barbecue grille! Blaupart was kind enough to send me a new set of gaskets for free. But I decided to reinstall the first (new) set of gaskets because they looked fine. Same thing, lots of smoke!

I thought it could be that my Harbor Freight torque wrench is not as precise as one that costs a gazillion dollars from Sears because reviews on the wrench indicated it may be accurate +/- 2 lbs. So I increased the torque to 9 and re-tightened the valve cover gasket nuts. This time there was just a little, but consistent smoke from both sides.

Is it the kit; the torque wrench; or perish the thought, ME? Or is a little smoke expected for the first # of miles after gasket replacement?

Would someone in the Ashburn, Virgina area be willing to lend a (paid) hand turning a wrench? Thank you.
Old 10-27-2012, 02:11 AM
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Sometimes it's just residue, especially if they were smoking a lot before the R& R of parts. After the top of my engine was resealed with the same parts yours was, I went ahead and took it to the carwash to cleanse the old crud. If that doesn't help, try re-tightening the valve cover bolts just a little more snug.
Old 10-27-2012, 06:47 AM
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I replaced the valve cover and cam tensioner gaskets on both sides last month with the Blaupart kit and the 1/4 drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight. No leak beyond the initial burn out of old oil residue.

I did the driver side a second time using the same kit to correct a cam chain fitting mistake. Also no leak afterward. If you followed the Blaupart instruction sheet or the Bentley manual to the letter, you should be good.

Clean all surfaces that mate to the gasket very thoroughly, including removing the twin camshafts to clean the under side of the cam tensioner. Some people, including the tech article on this forum, did this job without removing the camshafts. I think that is a mistake. The metal seal and half-moon seal under the cam tensioner is often the source of oil leak.

Do not over-torque. All 10mm nuts should be torqued to 10nm (equals 88.5 pounds-inch). This is very low torque, and you must use the 1/4 drive pound-inch version of the Harbor Freight torque wrench. Do not use the 3/8 drive pound-FEET version.

Torque the 2 center nuts on the cover first, then the evenly torque the outside nuts. While doing that, use a mirror to make sure the gasket is not being squeezed out of its slot on the front and back side of the cover.
Old 10-27-2012, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mc_hotmail
I replaced the valve cover and cam tensioner gaskets on both sides last month with the Blaupart kit and the 1/4 drive torque wrench from Harbor Freight. No leak beyond the initial burn out of old oil residue.

I did the driver side a second time using the same kit to correct a cam chain fitting mistake. Also no leak afterward. If you followed the Blaupart instruction sheet or the Bentley manual to the letter, you should be good.

Clean all surfaces that mate to the gasket very thoroughly, including removing the twin camshafts to clean the under side of the cam tensioner. Some people, including the tech article on this forum, did this job without removing the camshafts. I think that is a mistake. The metal seal and half-moon seal under the cam tensioner is often the source of oil leak.

Do not over-torque. All 10mm nuts should be torqued to 10nm (equals 88.5 pounds-inch). This is very low torque, and you must use the 1/4 drive pound-inch version of the Harbor Freight torque wrench. Do not use the 3/8 drive pound-FEET version.

Torque the 2 center nuts on the cover first, then the evenly torque the outside nuts. While doing that, use a mirror to make sure the gasket is not being squeezed out of its slot on the front and back side of the cover.
True, for the bold part...

I think it's a typing error on the red-bold as 88 is about what you would torque a lug nut. I think you meant to put 8.5lbs not 88.5
Old 10-28-2012, 08:06 AM
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Default pound-INCH not pound-FEET

Originally Posted by mc_hotmail
All 10mm nuts should be torqued to 10nm (equals 88.5 pounds-inch).
This is absolutely correct. It is pound-INCH not pound-FEET. Otherwise I would have destroyed my engine head. Here is a helpful site for conversion:

http://www.numberfactory.com/nf%20torque.htm
Old 10-28-2012, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mc_hotmail
This is absolutely correct. It is pound-INCH not pound-FEET. Otherwise I would have destroyed my engine head. Here is a helpful site for conversion:

http://www.numberfactory.com/nf%20torque.htm
Reading comprehension owned me, I didn't realize it said inch and not feet.. lol I guess I am not used to seeing inches LMAO!!!


Either way, we've had several 2.7Ts and have never had a problem with tightening them down just a tad bit more snug.
Old 12-06-2012, 07:37 AM
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I was in my local shop and they told me they had a customers car that kept doing the same thing! then they showed me what they called the spider valve assembly (engine breather assembly) and it was fouled right up! actually plugged solid in some places.
they replaced it and didnt have any more problems. the reason was the engine couldnt breath and the pressure pushed out the seals! just my 2 cents
Old 12-06-2012, 11:38 AM
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seriously.......a torque wrench to do valve cover nuts......... just tighten the things down for crying out loud, it doesnt matter. If it did the hundreds i have done would be back leaking...and they're not. Put silicone on the corners on head and on gasket. And maker sure to do rear cam plugs and chain tensioner gaskets or your totally wasting your time.
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