<ul><li><a href="http://www.valvoline.com/products/PBX.pdf">http://www.valvoline.com/products/PBX.pdf</a</li></ul>

 

Hopefully the numbers are good, because it's cheap, easy to find at WalMart, and cures cancer.

 

RLI has a 5w-40 BioSyn developed in-house just for RS4 service. You can run it much longer, making the price acceptable.

<a href="http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/?action=view&current=Biosyn.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a364/AudiJunkie/bitog/Biosyn.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Redline is great, extra HT/HS at +150c because of it's diester base oil. Specs call for HT/HS of &gt;3.5cP, and that's what Euro passenger car 5w-40s offer, like Syntec and say, M1 0w-40 too. Heavy-Duty HD Diesel 5w-40's take it up a notch to 4.1cP at +150c. Redline's 5w-40 HT/HS is probally 4.5cP or maybe more. One other thing is the ester base will clean the engine well! It's just too expensive long-term, imo.



Honestly, I could look at oils for you all day, but need some specifics like how cold it gets and what your hp is at. A string of UOAs from pst oils helps too.

The various 5w-40s are actually quite different as an oil product, compare to the bland 30 weight synths are are easily formulated, all the same. One thing with 5w-40 is that I personally don't like how thick it stays in the cold. Some are better than others and that would be something to look at. I did some freezer tests and even a 10w-30 is thinner at 0f. Use a 0w-40 or 5w-30 synth in deep winter if you can, even a 0w-30 or a thick 0w-30 like Syntec (HT/HS 3.5cP). Regular thin 30 weights are 2.9cP. That's ok if your oil temps stay low, BELOW +200f.

So, Redline 5w-40 is good for a track, but not needed for general use. Use the money for a UOA with a decent HD 5w-40 like Rotella and go from there.

Sorry I missed your post earlier.



Soot (St) 13
Oxidation (Oxi) 148.6 74.3%
Nitration (Nit) 35.5% 71
Sulfation (Sul)255

Metal
Iron (Fe) 7
Copper (Cu) 14
Chromium (Cr) 0
Aluminum (Al) 4
Lead (Pb) 1
Tin (Sn) 0
Silicon (Si) 22
Sodium (Na) 12
Potassium (K) 0
Molybdenum (Mo) 677
Phosphorus (P) 1334
Zinc (Zn) 1455
Calcium (Ca) 2752
Magnesium (Mg) 13


Physical
Water (W) N
Fuel (F) N
Antifreeze (A) N
Total Base Number (Tbn) 9
Viscosity At 100 C (V100) 15.8



(low lead=good visc)<ul><li><a href="http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&amp;Number=1047690&amp ;fpart=1">Tyrolkid's 5w-40 Redline UOA, 300whp only 3000 miles</a></li></ul>

 

It's Dual-rated Gas+Diesel. iirc, Extreme Blue stresses cold weather performance.

 

A BitOG &amp; VW guy JAG, did homebrew volitility/deposit tests cooking oil at home &amp; likes it

 

AMSoil has some racing oils too. imo, AMSoil is not worth it unless you are going up to 10k intervals.

 

in my post below that I like the 5w-30 redline. I live in high altitude colo. where it get's fairly cold in winter so i like the extra flow capability of the 5-30. I also have been starting to look at extended running intervals as Blackstone has suggested..so far they think 7K is fine. I might continue to run at 5K just for the piece-of-mind. i don't mind spending the extra money for Redline as I know it is protecting my internals. Thanks for your insights! BTW my Blackstone report looks very simular to the report you posted.

 

Blackstone has even asked me for a test sample of Redline to get a base for looking at my future reports. They like the oil as much as they can say they approve any oil.

 

of these full syn oils are fine to use. It's just that some are slightly better among the group.

In a CO winter, I would drop down to a 0w oil. For summer months, I don't think 5w30 is enough. You should be using a 40 weight oil.

Also, from what I've read of the oil reports for the 1.8T, 10k is too much for any oil due the small oil capacity, maybe even 7500 for some (like M1 0w40 in the heat of summer/tracking). 5k is safe and perfect, imo, for any of them under most conditions.

 

Or is that only with the Dyson analysis?