Door Closed Sensor Switch
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Joined: Feb 2004
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Door Closed Sensor Switch
I have an intermittent problem with my driver's side front door. When I get in the car and close the door the car often still thinks the door is open (door open display on dash, overhead lights are on, chime). If I open and close the door a few times I can usually get problem to go away but lately that's getting more difficult.
The door is closed solid mechanically. So there must be a microswitch that senses door closure that isn't working properly. There is a great write-up on the VW vortex website but it's for a different door lock module. (I have a 2000 A4). I took the interior door panel off but was not able to figure out where the sensor switch is located. Does anyone have a photo that shows the location of this switch? What do I need to do to be able to access and remove the switch? Is this usually an electrical failure of the switch or a problem with a mechanical actuation of the switch?
The door is closed solid mechanically. So there must be a microswitch that senses door closure that isn't working properly. There is a great write-up on the VW vortex website but it's for a different door lock module. (I have a 2000 A4). I took the interior door panel off but was not able to figure out where the sensor switch is located. Does anyone have a photo that shows the location of this switch? What do I need to do to be able to access and remove the switch? Is this usually an electrical failure of the switch or a problem with a mechanical actuation of the switch?
AudiWorld Expert
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Easily resolved. I had the same problem after dealer service
They use a heavy, tacky spray lube for the doors. Sadly, this gunks-up the micro-switch creating the exact situation you've descibed.
Spray some WD or other light lube and in a few days you should not experience this again.
HTH,
Peter
Spray some WD or other light lube and in a few days you should not experience this again.
HTH,
Peter
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Feb 2004
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That would be just too easy!
My door locks and latches haven't been lubed for quite a while, but the problem you describe could probably still happen. Where exactly did you spray the WD40 to free the sticky microswitch? Was it into the door latch mechanism?
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yes right in the latch. the microswitch is behind it. Spray generously.
that should resolve it as a new switch is about 150
And yes, its that easy....
you can always trick it by using a thin item to depress the switch.
spray and work it gently with a pen or similar (that fits)
And yes, its that easy....
you can always trick it by using a thin item to depress the switch.
spray and work it gently with a pen or similar (that fits)
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Feb 2004
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Re: yes right in the latch. the microswitch is behind it. Spray generously.
So can you actually see the microswitch without taking the door apart? You talk about working the WD40 into the switch. Did you exercise the switch by directly pushing on the actuator button? Or did you exercise it by toggling the latch mechanism itself? BTW, what is the model year of your car?
Thread Starter
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That did the trick!
I was able to locate the microswitch and determine that the switch was fine. My problem was that the pivoting latch mechanism was just a little sticky. I don't understand how the mechanism works but the pivoting latch has two positions. Only in the second position does it actuate the microswitch. Due to it being sticky it wouldn't swing into the second position all the time. It always seemed to work when I closed the door from the outside but often failed when I closed the door from the inside, probably because when I closed the door from the outside I applied more force and the sticky latch was forced into the second position. I compared the driver's door with the passenger's door and it was clear the driver's door had a problem.
I just used white lithium spray grease on the pivot point of the latch mechanism and haven't had a problem since. Can't help but wonder what my friendly local Audi stealership would have charged for this: $102 for the diagnostics, ~$125 for the latch mechanism, $250 for labor to tear apart the door, etc. But hey, I'd have gotten a free cup of coffee.
Thanks for the tip on this. This weekend I'm going to lube all the other door latches as well as the hood latch. Now I understand why lubing these things is part of the recommended service.
I just used white lithium spray grease on the pivot point of the latch mechanism and haven't had a problem since. Can't help but wonder what my friendly local Audi stealership would have charged for this: $102 for the diagnostics, ~$125 for the latch mechanism, $250 for labor to tear apart the door, etc. But hey, I'd have gotten a free cup of coffee.
Thanks for the tip on this. This weekend I'm going to lube all the other door latches as well as the hood latch. Now I understand why lubing these things is part of the recommended service.
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