I fixed both front window regulators tonight. I haven't seen anybody post about fixing them using the replacement parts that can be found on ebay these days so I figured I'd share my experience.

Both my front windows had gone out over the last couple of months in my 98.5 2.8 V6. When the drivers side went out it started making a horible cracking/creaking noise. I opened up the door panel and lubed the parts where the plastic pieces ride on the metal with some fresh grease. I should have done the other side as well. My drivers side managed to keep working, although it still made the horrible sounds, but not long after the passenger side went out completely.

I ordered the appropriate window regulator repair parts off ebay. These are to replace the part that slides up and down. They were green in my car, kind of square shaped about 2"x1.75"x.5". These are not to be confused with the parts that you can get at ECS (also green, but half-round). The replacement parts were white. It took a long time to receive the parts, so be sure to check the ebay sellers feedback if you need the parts right away. If your regulators haven't broken yet I'd advise you to do some preventative cleaning/lubing now. It's pretty obvious what needs to be lubed when you take off the door panel, plus you can get at everything without unhooking the plugs or door latch so it's a pretty quick job.

So I got the parts, opened up the door and what do I find? One of the pulleys has broken as well. I have a broken pulley with my rear drivers side window as well. Yeah, for a while there I only had one good window. Anyhow, I figured I'd try to fix that on the cheap as well. The worst thing that could happen is I'd actually have to buy a replacement windoy regulator for that window.

The process of swapping the regulator parts is actually pretty easy. Below both sides of the window there is a vertical track with a plastic part that rides up and down. This is the part that was broken and needed to be replaced. Connected to each of these are a metal bracket that also cradles the bottom of the window glass and a cable with a crimped on bead to move the plastic part up and down.

Afther you get the inner door completely off the first step is to loosen the screw that clamps the metal bracket to the glass. You will need a T30 torx bit and a wrench or ratcheting bit holder to fit it. The screw faces to the outside of the car and since I was working from the inside space was limited. A normal ratchet will not work. Also, you need to have the window about 2/3rds up to get the most room to access the screw. A trick to do this (since you have the inner door off and all the switches disconnected) is to use your key in the outside door locks. Turn and hold towards unlocked to lower the windows or turn and hold locked to raise the windows. Even though I had the right tools I had a hard time getting the screws to budge so I ended up just using some vise grips on the exposed threads of the screws and loosened them that way.

Next you need to get the plastic piece off. Mine were mostly destroyed already so I just went the full destructive route. You need to get the little cable bead out and the bracket out. The bracket just slides into a long slit in the plastic piece, but it has a barb that makes it so that it doesn't want to come out. The cable bead is also pretty stubborn. Pliers were my friends.

I replaced the plastic pieces one at a time, which meant I didn't have to hassle with the glass as much. This can all be done with the glass still in its tracks. It's easier if you find a way to raise the glass and hold it up while you work. There are a couple of places you can wedge a screwdriver or something for the glass to rest on, or you can use some zip ties. Putting the new plastic pieces in is easy. Both the right side and the left side use two of the same part, but the parts are different between sides. If you only have parts for one regulator you don't have to worry about getting things mixed up, but if you are doing both make sure to keep track of which is which.

To put the new plastic pieces on you can just slide and rotate them onto the track. I should have taken pictures, but it isn't that difficult. Once you have them on, slide them into position to press in the cable bead. I used the tip of some pliers to press the bead in. Next, slide the metal bracket back into the slit. Because of the barb it can be a little difficult. Leave the screw to clamp the glass loose until you have both pieces replaced. Replacing the second piece is exactly the same as the first. Once you have both pieces replaced go ahead and tighten the screws in the bracket (either with your T30 or your vise grips) to clamp the glass. Make sure to clean and lube the tracks before you button everything back up. It's really not too difficult.

To replace the broken pulley I got some patio door replacement pulleys. I think these are actually the rollers that go under a sliding glass door. They are a little smaller in diameter than the broken pulley (about 1.25" vs 1.75") and they came with a bolt and nut to mount them. They also have a crude ball bearing in the center which means you can just bolt them in place and they will still be able to spin.

In order to remove the broken pulley I had to cut away a small amount of metal in front of the rivet holding the pulley. Then I started to drill out the rivet, but it started to spin, so I just used a Dremel and ground down the edges until I could push the rivet through its hole. I used the bolt and nut that the new pulley came with, but added a lock washer since I couldn't really get anything on the bolt to hold it while tightening the nut. The hardest part was getting enough slack in the cable to wrap over the pulley. Eventually I got it by lowering the window completely and using a tool to pry it on. It wasn't easy, but it can be done.

In the end I was able to fix both windows for less than $30 and they both work great now. Plus I have a pulley left over so I think I'm going to try my luck at fixing that rear window that I've had zip-tied closed now for about 3 years.

 

Great job, just wish you had pictures to go with this job you completed.

 

I also just repaired the drivers window regulator for my Neighbor, his cable was busted, we ordered a cable repair kit from Ebay for about $20 from oversees, parts came in 2 weeks, it came with everything except the pulleys, cables clips and all needed to replace the whole cable. went together pretty well. took abut 1.5 hr to swap out

 

Leaving the house with the family for a day out in our "spare" 99 A4, the LR window crapped out pulling out of the drive... We switched to the "Trusty" Touareg, and when I got home I saw this post (thanks). It was Sunday, and didn't want to wait forever for parts, so tore it apart. All the parts seemed good except a broken pulley. The pulley hub is not removable, so I ground it off, drilled and tapped it and found a hard anodized aluminum pulley with precision bearings from an old telescope I had laying around , threw it on the lathe and made it a single row pulley (was double row). That and a stainless steel screw and I was in business! (dang that cable tension is high!) Cost = 0.

 

Good job and great ingenuity to boot! Hope you bought yourself a beer at least .

 

Aww, I would've done that if I had a lathe and a hard anodized aluminum pulley with precision bearings from an old telescope too. Good work and I'm glad my post helped to inspire you. These cars are getting old enough that we need more posts on riggin up something that works rather than just replacing the factory parts. Thanks.

 

lol.... I could probably make the whole car if I had the time and patience, but your post got me to dig into fixing it instead of just ordering parts and doing it a week later