nosajnostaw

Hello, new to the forum, thanks in advance.

I just did the timing belt on my 2001 a4 2.8 30v. I didn't have the crank lock pin. I didn't loosen the cam spockets, just aligned the belt with marks on the old belt. When I tested the cams with the cam bar it was a tight fit, I thought it must be less then one tooth, tight belt? not quite TDC?. Anyway, I cranked it over by hand 6 revs, seemed smooth,started it, ran for about 3 seconds and shut it down, it was making a bit of a ticking sound, but it always has a little.

After I shut it down I checked the timing again, still looked just barely off. Cranked it by hand 2 revs, it jams opening front left (cyl 4?) exhaust valves.

Incidentally, the drivers side cam chain tensioner is screwed, the upper plastic guide is gone (pieces of it floating around) looks like it's been gone for a while.

How bad did I screw up. Any suggestions?

4Driver4

Start by setting the timing. I can't believe at anyone still does that job without the tools. How did you change the cam seals?

Replace the broken cam adjuster, set the timing, and see where you are.

nosajnostaw

I did use the cam bar, just not properly, got impatient at the end of a hot afternoon. I didn't have the crank pin, just trusted the timing mark. Didn't replace the seals, just belt, pulleys and waterpump and thermostat.

The thing that concerns me is that I can't turn the cam past the cyl 4 exhaust valves (belt off, cylinders all mid stroke) Could the timing being off that little completely jam a valve closed? I'd hate to spend the money on a new adjuster if the head is trashed anyway. Is is possible a piece of the tensoner guide could be jaming the chain/sprocket?

Thanks for the input.

4Driver4

Why would the head be trashed? Worst case you have a few bent valves. If you are concerned, start by pulling the cams out on that side and doing a leak-down test to see if you have compression (don't touch the cams until the pin is installed.

Using the tool but not using it right is basically the same thing as not using the tool.

nosajnostaw

Well, I guess bent vavles aren't the end of the world, but more then I was looking to get into at the moment. One question on cams, how is the intake cam aligined? Line up the arrow on the front block with the flat on the sprocket on both cams? there should be 16 links between them?


Ya, I know, I'm the tool, you have no idea how annoyed and embarrased I am with myself... I knew better.

Thanks again for the help

4Driver4

I can't remember how many links, but STFA and find out the correct number of links. I would not try to align the cams using just the marks. That said, if the chain has not been moved, you should be good leaving it where it is.

nosajnostaw

Ok, I'm happier today. I pulled the exhaust cam out and sure enough there was a big chunk of plastic jammed between the sprocket and head, that explains the jam. So now I guess replace the tensioner and redo the timing.

Can you replace just the guides? should the whole tensioner be done anyway? (160K KM / 100K KM) If I replace one side should I replace the other too?

jseklund

You can order an enhanced valve cover kit from blauparts which includes the guides for both tensioners.

Also, if you have the cams in and turn the crank with no belt on - I would imagine that's a good way to create a collision.

Get the crank pin. I made the same mistake, and 4D4 gave me the same lecture, and I was much happier once I learned what he preaches. No pin = potential for an expensive and major problem.

Even still, I would pull the cams, replace the seals, and check for leakdown before I put it all back together. When you pull the cams, use the tool to compress and be careful as you pull the cams/tensioner/chain out and put it back in. The feet compress and then the sprockets sometimes hit the feet as you're removing/installing - if you force it, you crack the feet.

mtroxel

Frankly I don't think the pin is that crucial compared to loosening the cam sprockets. The mark on the crank pulley will get the crank to DTC. But as 4D4 said, using the cam tool without loosening the sprockets is really not using the tool.

4Driver4

Usually. But after seeing a few sheared and partially sheared keys, I always remove the crank sprocket to check condition. Even a partially sheared key and render the timing mark on the harmonic balancer useless.