I was told to try running NGK BKR7E's because of my timing pull issue and the car runs like crap.
05-14-2006, 05:06 PM
#1
I was told to try running NGK BKR7E's because of my timing pull issue and the car runs like crap.
I installed the plugs yesterday. I cleared the ECU and did a TBA. The car runs fine, but it idles like total crap. The BKR6E's I used to run were always just fine. The idle was very smooth and steady. Now with the 7E's, the idle is very rough and dances around a lot. It takes longer for the motor to snap up when starting. When I put the car in gear, it feels like it's going to stall out, but then recovers. The car also throws codes everytime I start it:
2 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
Sometimes I also get a code for my MAF sensor, something about voltage too low.
What the hell??
2 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
Sometimes I also get a code for my MAF sensor, something about voltage too low.
What the hell??
05-14-2006, 05:22 PM
#3
I always gap my plugs at .032". What would I check with the coil packs? One day they're fine and
change the plugs and **BAM**, no good? I wish this made any sense to me...
05-14-2006, 09:46 PM
#6
I never say anything useful on these forums as you've noted in the past, so don't read this.
By checking coilpacks, he meant moving the coilpack on cylinder #1 to another cylinder and seeing if the misfire moves to that cylinder as well. If it does, you need a new coilpack.
The BKR7Es are a colder plug than the 6Es. Since you just installed them, they shouldn't have fouled yet, but colder plugs can cause misfires.
Here's what the NGK web site says about colder plugs:
<a href="http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp?nav=31000&country=US">Explanation of plug temps</a>
It's also possible you got a bad plug, or one that was dropped and cracked. If the misfire stays in cylinder #1 after you move the coilpack, try a new plug in that cylinder.
The BKR7Es are a colder plug than the 6Es. Since you just installed them, they shouldn't have fouled yet, but colder plugs can cause misfires.
Here's what the NGK web site says about colder plugs:
<a href="http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp?nav=31000&country=US">Explanation of plug temps</a>
It's also possible you got a bad plug, or one that was dropped and cracked. If the misfire stays in cylinder #1 after you move the coilpack, try a new plug in that cylinder.
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05-15-2006, 08:32 AM
#9
Update: not good...
This morning I went out and pulled all of the plugs. Cylinder #1 was clearly fouling and the other 3 looked good. I decided to re-gap the plugs and in doing so I moved the black fouled looking plug to cylinder #2 and switched the coil packs around between cylinders #1 and #4.
When I started the car the first time this morning after the change (first time the car was started today), I got a CEL and the same damn codes including the MAF sensor voltage. I cleared them and took the car for a ride. Same thing, idle is rough and the car wants to stall but never does.
After a 10 minute cruise in town, I checked for fault codes again. Same thing, random misfires and cylinder #1 misfire and no MAF codes.
This is exactly what I had yesterday. Now what??
When I started the car the first time this morning after the change (first time the car was started today), I got a CEL and the same damn codes including the MAF sensor voltage. I cleared them and took the car for a ride. Same thing, idle is rough and the car wants to stall but never does.
After a 10 minute cruise in town, I checked for fault codes again. Same thing, random misfires and cylinder #1 misfire and no MAF codes.
This is exactly what I had yesterday. Now what??
05-15-2006, 12:54 PM
#10
If you still have the old plugs, try putting them back in. . .
You could also do a throttle body adaptation with the VAG.
Since the problem seems to be staying at cylinder #1, just for grins check out the injector for that cylinder. And maybe do a compression test.
But at some point you're going to run out of easy/inexpensive things to try and you'll have to suspect the MAF.
Since the problem seems to be staying at cylinder #1, just for grins check out the injector for that cylinder. And maybe do a compression test.
But at some point you're going to run out of easy/inexpensive things to try and you'll have to suspect the MAF.