Just put on some 312mm rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads... what's the recommended bed-in procedure?
05-15-2004, 04:10 PM
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Just put on some 312mm rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads... what's the recommended bed-in procedure?
I did a basic search and found some stuff, but nothing particularly descriptive.
05-15-2004, 04:22 PM
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just try not to brake hard for a coupkle of days. what rotors do you have?
I have OEM ones and with OEM pads they sucked.
So i have predator pads now.
Which are Ferodo medium compound made under lisence. they rock
So i have predator pads now.
Which are Ferodo medium compound made under lisence. they rock
05-15-2004, 04:45 PM
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Here's what I do, and it works, without fail.
Find a nice, long, empty road. Accelerate to the top of 2nd gear, then brake as hard as you can without engaging the ABS down to about 15 or 20 mph. Immediately accelerate back to redline and repeat. With your pads, 4-5 stops should get them hot and stinky. Race pads might need 7-8 stops.
Afterwards, drive a few miles without braking to let them cool, and MAKE SURE if you have to stop you don't put your foot on the brake while sitting there, or you'll transfer pad material unevenly, have a shuddering pedal, and have to do it all over. After 4-5 miles of easy driving, however, you should be all set.
Afterwards, drive a few miles without braking to let them cool, and MAKE SURE if you have to stop you don't put your foot on the brake while sitting there, or you'll transfer pad material unevenly, have a shuddering pedal, and have to do it all over. After 4-5 miles of easy driving, however, you should be all set.
05-15-2004, 05:34 PM
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it's more an issue of pad material that affects how you do bed-in...
The more aggressive the material the more aggressively you want to break it in.
If you are running a pure street-only pad like mintex red, etc. doing the hard stops may just be a worse idea. You can generate enough heat doing the bed-in procedure in the post I made above to actually break down a street pad. I once witnessed a freind breaking in his Mintex Reds using my method, and his brand new slotted rotors got filled with pad material instantly!
I *think* the EBC greens are a semi-performance pad, do maybe just a few hard stops to heat them up for break-in. On my street-only Hawk HPS, I do maybe 4 quick stops after switching back to them after a track day.
If you are running a pure street-only pad like mintex red, etc. doing the hard stops may just be a worse idea. You can generate enough heat doing the bed-in procedure in the post I made above to actually break down a street pad. I once witnessed a freind breaking in his Mintex Reds using my method, and his brand new slotted rotors got filled with pad material instantly!
I *think* the EBC greens are a semi-performance pad, do maybe just a few hard stops to heat them up for break-in. On my street-only Hawk HPS, I do maybe 4 quick stops after switching back to them after a track day.
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05-15-2004, 05:39 PM
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Yeah, EBC Greens are supposed to be slightly more performance than street....
I did 3 hard stops, and my new slotted rotors look great. I might do another "set" tomorrow now that I know they can take it. Rotors are the BBS slotted from ECS tuning.
05-15-2004, 07:08 PM
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I use the ECS slotted A8 sized rotors. No issues with them performance-wise, but...
I install a new set each March, and the slots are worn away totally by July-August or so, and down to the minimum spec by the fall, so I limp them thru winter.
I wonder if the OEM-branded ones last longer. One of my fellow track buddies has a set of AP racing brakes on his 1995 S6 sedan (the big tank w/ the turbo inline 5) and he's still on his original AP rotors after years of track driving.....
I wonder if the OEM-branded ones last longer. One of my fellow track buddies has a set of AP racing brakes on his 1995 S6 sedan (the big tank w/ the turbo inline 5) and he's still on his original AP rotors after years of track driving.....
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