2 questions for today, what is: (1) Cheapest place to get Motul RBF 600, (2) Hex bolt size of
#2
(1) No idea. I use Pentocin Racing and works well (2) 8mm, and socket-style is best
In either case (hex key or hex socket), make sure it's new and not rounded at all. The rears are on way tighter than you'd think. A hex key will need a pipe or something over it to break the bolt free.
A socket will more than likely need cut, though. The hex part sticking out of the socket will be too long to fit a ratchet over it without being in the way of the rear shock. Just take a dremmel and cut part of the hex portion off.
You will be banging, swearing, and pulling your azz off to get those allen bolts off.
A socket will more than likely need cut, though. The hex part sticking out of the socket will be too long to fit a ratchet over it without being in the way of the rear shock. Just take a dremmel and cut part of the hex portion off.
You will be banging, swearing, and pulling your azz off to get those allen bolts off.
#6
Any hint or tricks on how to get the 8mm off...
I stripped a ratchet, tried penetrant fluid, even heated the bolts with a propane/O2 torch and the friggin' things won't come off.
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#9
Fronts feel more "solid" in getting off because there is more room, large bolt head,
..... and you can get more leverage with a larger wrench.
The rears just don't give much room. And if you use a hex key instead of a wrench/hex socket, then you will need a pipe over it for leverage. It will feel like it's going to break. If the hex head isn't all the way in to the bolt, you will round it off. STF and you will see a few people who've done this.
Mine made that "cracking" noise from when a bolt is on there ballz tight. All four did this.
I got one off with a hex key and a pipe. It was so nerve racking with an 8mm hex key that I went and bought a hex socket. But then it was too long. So I cut the tip of it off so a large ratchet could still fit over it without getting in way of shock, and the remaining 3 were much easier to get off. Still way tight, and I used a rubber mallet, too (but again, make sure the head is in good or you'll round off hex).
You should be replacing these bolts anyhow, so do what you need to do to get them out. They are not supposed to be re-used (although I'm sure people do).
The fronts were just much easier on my car. Just as something to compare to; my exhaust bolts all came off with a wrench last month. No cutting was required and my whole exhaust came off with no cutting or torching from the CAT back. So I know my car is pretty clean when it comes to bolts and such. But man, I'd swear my rear hex bolts were tack welded in.
The rears just don't give much room. And if you use a hex key instead of a wrench/hex socket, then you will need a pipe over it for leverage. It will feel like it's going to break. If the hex head isn't all the way in to the bolt, you will round it off. STF and you will see a few people who've done this.
Mine made that "cracking" noise from when a bolt is on there ballz tight. All four did this.
I got one off with a hex key and a pipe. It was so nerve racking with an 8mm hex key that I went and bought a hex socket. But then it was too long. So I cut the tip of it off so a large ratchet could still fit over it without getting in way of shock, and the remaining 3 were much easier to get off. Still way tight, and I used a rubber mallet, too (but again, make sure the head is in good or you'll round off hex).
You should be replacing these bolts anyhow, so do what you need to do to get them out. They are not supposed to be re-used (although I'm sure people do).
The fronts were just much easier on my car. Just as something to compare to; my exhaust bolts all came off with a wrench last month. No cutting was required and my whole exhaust came off with no cutting or torching from the CAT back. So I know my car is pretty clean when it comes to bolts and such. But man, I'd swear my rear hex bolts were tack welded in.
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