A4WD

Hey guys I've already used the search button but it seems to not really have detailed information on changing the oil. I just got chipped and have approximately 14k on my car. It seems like my car has been running a little rough and I think its the oil, due to my hard driving ( I put 4 K in approximately 5 weeks)....*sigh*...Any suggestions? If its too hard to change the oil, anyone knoe of places besides the dealer that will do it for a reasonable price?


Also, how do you check if the oil has gone bad? I've never been able to understand the dipstick..Thanks guys..Im sure this topic has come up numerous times, but once again I couldnt find much in the search.

fourwheelslide

The oil change is easy, it's the filter that's a PITA!

A4NCAR

I've run synths hard 8K+ in my 1.8t (extended drains for 8 years now) and didn't have any issues.

I haven't changed the oil myself, but it isn't that hard from what I have seen. You just need to lift it up to get underneath and remove that plastic shield under the engine. And make sure you are removing the engine oil plug and not the tranny plug. The oil filter can be tough if they really tightened it on there.

The only way you can know if the oil has gone bad (and again, I highly doubt this is the case, unless you have used some garbage oil, non-synth) is to have a UOA [Used Oil Analysis] done. You can get a free test kit from <a href="http://blackstone-labs.com/index.html">Blackstone Labs</a> and then send it back to have it analyzed.

The dipstick is to check the oil level. It is full at the dimples (dots), not at the bend.

Maybe it runs rough because of chip (they're not flawless), or the plugs, or something else. Try getting some good copper plugs like NGK BKR6E [6962], or Beru 14F-6DTU

teutonic blur

It would be very unlikely for oil to be the cause of a rough-running engine. I would look for someone with a vag-comm or something similar and see if your ECU has codes.

If you can't read a dipstick I wouldn't recommend that you tackle the oil change yourself ;=).

I would buy an OEM (mahle/Mann) oil filter fron the dealer and take the car to an oil change place. Just make sure they use synthetic oil and the OEM filter (no Fram, Purolator, etc.!!!). The Mobil 1 oil filter is very good but expen$ive.

Ler

Get a fluid extractor- this really speeds things up since you don't have to get under the car. I got a cheapie one, works great, gets out all the oil based on how much new oil I need to fill.
<a href="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=81053&catalogId=10001& classNum=170&subdeptNum=169&storeNum=6">Fluid Extractor</a>

Filter can be removed from the topside if you move the coolant expansion tank. Get yourself a decent wrench that will fit over the end of the filter, these can be had for &lt; $10 at auto parts stores.

Together, an oil change can take as little as 15 minutes.

Chekm8

do what everyone says. if you're really worried and want to see what a tech really does to drain the oil, get under the car. you'll have to remove the skid pads, but they're not that hard.

just remember, 4 quarts/bottles should be enough. make sure you put the drain plug/screw back on if you do decide to go under the car.

when putting the new oil filter back onto the engine, add some oil in the filter already (don't fill, might be hard to put back with spillage), and make sure you oil the lip of the filter

good way to learn anyway.

NOTE! DO NOT DROP ANYTHING IN THE ENGINE WHERE YOU ADD THE OIL OR YOU'RE SCREWED! that's the only real warning.

Audi Junkie

at AutoZone, BOSCH Premium #3421. Puralator is ok too. Tips are cool.

A4WD

Thanks for the replies everyone!!! very very helpful!!!!

Nammo

hey, great idea! I'll have to look into this way of changing my oil