B6 A4 Longevity?
#11
AudiWorld Super User
I am just kidding of course
The sockets are notorious for getting corrosion or deforming. I have taken emery cloth to fix one socket. I have also stuffed a very small piece of 2 or 3 layer aluminum foil under the wire on my turn signal bulb becuase the socket seemed to be slightly deformed and it worked until the car was totaled. I was too cheap and lazy to go to the auto shop
The sockets are notorious for getting corrosion or deforming. I have taken emery cloth to fix one socket. I have also stuffed a very small piece of 2 or 3 layer aluminum foil under the wire on my turn signal bulb becuase the socket seemed to be slightly deformed and it worked until the car was totaled. I was too cheap and lazy to go to the auto shop
#12
AudiWorld Member
turned 300,000 on my 2002 CVT, original trans,original alternator, etc., no oil usage between 5000 mile changes, no rust, no issues at all. Great car. I have paid for the 50,000 mile CVT trans fluid changes and that is the only reason it is still working !!
#13
AudiWorld Super User
My '05 3.0 just went past 200K miles a couple of months ago. Besides the usual timing belt jobs, filters, etc, this is what I've had to fix within the last few years:
Steering rack (drastic seal failure), PS pump (whined), fuel pump (failure- end of life), radiator (leak), coolant manifold (leaking under the intake manifold), AC pulley bearing replacement (was breaking up), and a window regulator due to cable breakage. One problem which caused long-cranking starts and reduced power caused me to change the engine speed sensor, but later I figured out the real problem; ECU relay contacts were only closing with very marginal force, so that driving over an object on the road could make the contacts bounce, logging the speed sensor code.
All in all this has been a reliable and fun car to drive.
Steering rack (drastic seal failure), PS pump (whined), fuel pump (failure- end of life), radiator (leak), coolant manifold (leaking under the intake manifold), AC pulley bearing replacement (was breaking up), and a window regulator due to cable breakage. One problem which caused long-cranking starts and reduced power caused me to change the engine speed sensor, but later I figured out the real problem; ECU relay contacts were only closing with very marginal force, so that driving over an object on the road could make the contacts bounce, logging the speed sensor code.
All in all this has been a reliable and fun car to drive.
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