gogocity

Hey to everybody
Couple months ago i bought A4 B8.5 2.0 TFSI Quattro with ZF 8 transmission (106k km) (USA market car)
I was feeling the switching (a little bit) between levels at the gearbox while car was cold (only for like 5 mins, when the engine gets warm, totally was fine) also the transmission's manufacturer ZF recommends change fluid every 80-100k therefore i decided to change it as a precaution.
I purchased online the ZF's Original Kit (Filter, bolts, gasket, 7 pcs 1lt ZF Life Guard Fluid 8). My local car mechanic guys hasn't changed fluid for that transmission before, so i have watched all videos about this procedure including maden by ZF itself for auto services.
And we have changed fluid exactly as how ZF recommends (i was careful about temperatures as well by following numbers from VCDS). Totally added ~5.4LT fluid.

Same day of the changing, i haven't feel something weird; drove the car like 30km(half of the route autoban other half is busy city traffic) and parked to the home.
After 2 days i started the car and when i switch position to D or R; car was jerky. While driving or stationary at N or P car is silent and no any vibration but if i switch to D or R; i feel vibration of the engine at the inside of the car(while i push the breaks or driving car slow or fast doesnt matter).
By the way, transmission performance is just fine, it switches between levels smoothly at slow incity speeds or performance driving either. I have vcds, car has no any errors.
I turned back the local car masters and we lifted car and checked; there was no any leaking of fluid and transmission mount was looking fine and working.

We have couple theories:
1-The Transmission Mount was already not perfect, after we opened it for can access the oil pan, it may stop the work properly or we may damaged it. (as visual investigation it looks normal)
2-May need to reset to factory settings or reset the adaptation of auto-trans from VCDS after ATF is changed (i searched in the internet, could not find clear info about it, so i haven't tried it yet)
3- The ZF Life Guard Fluid 8 of i used was fake(i dont know is it possible) or might expired(i dont know is it possible either). The kit came in very nice and looks original ZF branded big blue box.
4-We may add the new fluid much or less than needed (we have tried the confirm it by opening fluid adding bolt at correct temperature and while engine is working and was coming fluid, according the ZF how it supposed to be)

I am sorry for that much long text, i just wanted to share my experience and i would like to hear ideas or answers of the users about this issue.
Best Regards

SMac770

After a fluid change in a ZF, I'd think the first thing you'd do would be to reset the adaptations and do a new adaptation drive. Reset the adaptations in VCDS, probably a basic settings operation. Then:


That filter has a gasket ring around it at the top of the tube. You did make sure the old ring came out with the old filter or you pulled it out afterwards before installing the new one?

gogocity

I believe the pic of you shared, not belongs to may car/trans. With 8 gear transmission, can not get that parameters. But i will search more and consider the reset adaptation. Thanks for very fast respond btw.




I am not 100% sure which ring you are asking about, but i took a pic while old oil was draining. to where the new filter connects, looks like clear.

findalex

To reset the ZF 8HP, you go to VCDS and

1) 02 - gear box
2) 006 - basic settings
3) delete system-specific adaptation values
4) start

Immediately after the reset, the car shifts a bit rough. There are three types of adaptations the transmission needs to perform: quick, pulse, and slip.

A. Quick adaptation is the first thing to do:

1. ATF temp over 40 C
2. In D, drive with light throttle (60 - 100 Nm), max rpm 2100, 1 ->2 up shift, 2 ->3 upshift, 3 ->4 upshift
3. If possible, decelerate your speed without brake down to 40 kph/24 mph, let transmission downshift itself to proper gear

B. Slip adaptation is next:
4. After less than 24 mph, brake and stop the car completely. While still in D, hold brake and stay stationary for 7 seconds.

C. Pulse adaptation is done automatically while you're driving under light-medium throttle (less than 2100 rpm)

gogocity

Is it "must do" procedure after the ATF changing?

findalex

I would consider it a must do. The adjustment values stored in the transmission's computer changes as the ATF ages. I remember reading some values stop adjusting after it reaches a maximum and the frequency of adjustment reduces overtime. So if you put in new fluids, you should reset the computer so it can make the adjustments again.

gogocity

Yesterday late night while the traffic was almost empty, At 40c ATF temp, i deleted system-specific adaptation values by VCDS and followed instruction above
it was not technically possible follow 100% therefore it has 8 gears but i believe i almost fixed to similar ratios.
like 10 times with light throttle i reached 60-70km/h speeds at 6th or 7th gears (under 2000 rpm each) then decreased speed without braking till 40 then brake (and pause 10 secs with brake while D).
like 5 times 0 to 100km/h with light throttle at 7th or 8th gears (under 2000 rpm each) then to 40km/h without braking. Also made ~10km tour at the highway with 80-100km/h speeds at the 7th and 8th gears (i was so careful about the acceleration, havent used throttle pedal over 25% and i was always under 2100rpm)

before reset fill pressure of clutch A was -130mbar, after test drive it was -30mbar
and Adaptation counter A-C-D-E became 6, adaptation counter B became 15

I can clearly say at the end the jerky problem is decreased like 50-50, but still not as how it was (may be need to drive more for better adaptation i dont know) i am considering to install new transmission mount as precaution.

Thanks you both for recommending adaptation reset, feel free to answer if you have opinions or if you believe i made something wrong

Best Regards

findalex

Give it a few more days. If after a week or so and it's still the same, then I'd consider changing more parts.

My experience is that it takes a few days for the fluid to equalize and adaptations to really smooth out the transmission.

On the transmission mount, I recently purchased a $20 transmission mount insert and that has really improved the smoothness... it pretty much eliminated the slight jolt going from park to reverse then to drive first thing in the morning, and also the sometimes harsh downshift from 4th to 3rd. If you have VCDS, you can setup so the gears are shown (e.g. D1/D2/D3 instead of just D).

gogocity

Actually tranmission works very softly, shifts between gears very slight (especially after warming up), i feel the vibration of the engine when i switch gear to D or R (while car is stationary and my foot at the brake as well)

Macallan

Did adaptation reset and couple test drives permanent solved this problem with JERK-BANG into gear when you select DRIVE or REVERSE, or this problem after time occurred again?