Proper Procedures for Break-In the car
11-04-2009, 09:01 AM
#11
That's a point for debate. Some people drive hard from the start as it's a belief that the rings seat better.
Indeed, in piston airplanes, the break in procedure is to run them hard at low altitude (where power is greater) for a couple of hours. Once you're past that point, the break in is really done. I know aviation engines are different, but just wanted to highlight the principle.
John.
Indeed, in piston airplanes, the break in procedure is to run them hard at low altitude (where power is greater) for a couple of hours. Once you're past that point, the break in is really done. I know aviation engines are different, but just wanted to highlight the principle.
John.
11-04-2009, 10:31 AM
#12
AudiWorld Senior Member
While I don't subscribe to the "drive it like you stole it" belief, I also think it's best to not go too easy either. If you read my post above you'll see that I recommend occasional high-rev full acceleration. This exposes the rings to the upper end of the RPM range while they are breaking in.
It's important to do this without putting too much stress on the engine though. The best way to do this is to wait until the engine is fully warmed, then wait until you are on a relatively uncongested stretch of road. While moving at low speeds accelerate fully and make sure the engine sees some high RPMs. This is likely easier to do in a manual where you can hold the gear, though maybe sport mode on the auto would help. Then let off the gas and let engine braking slow you down. This creates a vacuum which draws up plenty of oil for lubrication. Do this 2-3 times and then go back to driving easy and keeping the revs down. Sprinkle these types of runs throughout your break-in and you'll have a happier engine than if you totally baby it.
I've always done my break-ins this way and my engines have run wonderfully smooth and strong without burning oil in excess of 150K miles.
It's important to do this without putting too much stress on the engine though. The best way to do this is to wait until the engine is fully warmed, then wait until you are on a relatively uncongested stretch of road. While moving at low speeds accelerate fully and make sure the engine sees some high RPMs. This is likely easier to do in a manual where you can hold the gear, though maybe sport mode on the auto would help. Then let off the gas and let engine braking slow you down. This creates a vacuum which draws up plenty of oil for lubrication. Do this 2-3 times and then go back to driving easy and keeping the revs down. Sprinkle these types of runs throughout your break-in and you'll have a happier engine than if you totally baby it.
I've always done my break-ins this way and my engines have run wonderfully smooth and strong without burning oil in excess of 150K miles.
Last edited by Hobbes; 11-04-2009 at 10:33 AM.
11-04-2009, 10:41 AM
#13
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+1 to Hobbes... This has been my general idea. Generally go easy, but also hit different rev ranges when warm. Over the first 1000-2000 miles get closer to redline, and definitely let engine slow down by itself, off throttle for the vacuum effect. Also, not sure if it does anything, but I try to drive hard (keeping revs as hard as possible) on the way to my first oil change.
11-04-2009, 12:51 PM
#14
Avoid full throttle if possible and avoid using the brakes hard enough to engage ABS.
These are the dealer guidlines that say, more or less, in English, the same thing the manual says.
If you have a panic stop, you'll have a panic stop, stop the car don't crash it trying to baby something -- that is, don't be an idiot.
Likewise, if you need to floor it for maximum acceleration, for some good reason, of course, well, do it -- again don't be an idiot.
I've been to the factory and through the factory sponsored driving schools (4 times). They always tell you the cars are able to be driven "at full tilt" right off the showroom floor.
I'd err on the side of following the manual, if at all possible -- not that I disbelieve the factory officials. Also, change the oil at 5K, don't overdo that either -- and oddly, don't underdo it either.
Use premium fuel and check the air pressure and all fluids with greater, er, "intensity," for the first thousand miles or so.
These are the dealer guidlines that say, more or less, in English, the same thing the manual says.
If you have a panic stop, you'll have a panic stop, stop the car don't crash it trying to baby something -- that is, don't be an idiot.
Likewise, if you need to floor it for maximum acceleration, for some good reason, of course, well, do it -- again don't be an idiot.
I've been to the factory and through the factory sponsored driving schools (4 times). They always tell you the cars are able to be driven "at full tilt" right off the showroom floor.
I'd err on the side of following the manual, if at all possible -- not that I disbelieve the factory officials. Also, change the oil at 5K, don't overdo that either -- and oddly, don't underdo it either.
Use premium fuel and check the air pressure and all fluids with greater, er, "intensity," for the first thousand miles or so.
11-04-2009, 12:52 PM
#15
+1 to Hobbes... This has been my general idea. Generally go easy, but also hit different rev ranges when warm. Over the first 1000-2000 miles get closer to redline, and definitely let engine slow down by itself, off throttle for the vacuum effect. Also, not sure if it does anything, but I try to drive hard (keeping revs as hard as possible) on the way to my first oil change.
11-04-2009, 07:55 PM
#16
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Avoid full throttle if possible and avoid using the brakes hard enough to engage ABS.
These are the dealer guidlines that say, more or less, in English, the same thing the manual says.
If you have a panic stop, you'll have a panic stop, stop the car don't crash it trying to baby something -- that is, don't be an idiot.
Likewise, if you need to floor it for maximum acceleration, for some good reason, of course, well, do it -- again don't be an idiot.
I've been to the factory and through the factory sponsored driving schools (4 times). They always tell you the cars are able to be driven "at full tilt" right off the showroom floor.
I'd err on the side of following the manual, if at all possible -- not that I disbelieve the factory officials. Also, change the oil at 5K, don't overdo that either -- and oddly, don't underdo it either.
Use premium fuel and check the air pressure and all fluids with greater, er, "intensity," for the first thousand miles or so.
These are the dealer guidlines that say, more or less, in English, the same thing the manual says.
If you have a panic stop, you'll have a panic stop, stop the car don't crash it trying to baby something -- that is, don't be an idiot.
Likewise, if you need to floor it for maximum acceleration, for some good reason, of course, well, do it -- again don't be an idiot.
I've been to the factory and through the factory sponsored driving schools (4 times). They always tell you the cars are able to be driven "at full tilt" right off the showroom floor.
I'd err on the side of following the manual, if at all possible -- not that I disbelieve the factory officials. Also, change the oil at 5K, don't overdo that either -- and oddly, don't underdo it either.
Use premium fuel and check the air pressure and all fluids with greater, er, "intensity," for the first thousand miles or so.
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