Mynoles1

Those are items that you want and would be added - as they are tangible. So, you take the invoice + profit that you want, add the warranties and maintenance type items, TTL and you get your total drive out.

The deal I received was just vehicle, plus TTL. What I was staying away from was the documentation fees, prep fees, etc.

The bottom line is to have a clear understanding up front of ALL costs, not at the time of F&I signing.

RickG

Thanks again all. Is it considered bad form to bring up the price after saying I wanted it? I do want it, but don't like the idea of getting hosed on it either. As I was told there was only the one available, I figured I had better jump on it before it was sold. I did put down a deposit to get the car brought in, I was told that they wouldn't have any issue selling it so the deposit would be refundable if I changed my mind. Just not sure if that would apply to me starting to haggle over the price after the fact. But I haven't signed anything so I assume I'm okay yet.

Alphatero

You put down a deposit but didnt sign anything?

That's a very dangerous practice.

I can see why the dealer is getting sticker out of you

RickG

I didn't feel good about it, but i'm 300 miles away from the dealer. So it was an over the phone thing, after I had originally stopped in to inquire. I live in the middle of nowhere, but take frequent trips to the area where the dealer is and will most likely be moving back there in the some what near future.

Johnny.B.Good

You have heard some good advice here. I live in the Bay Area, where there are many Audi dealerships to choose from, so my situation is probably a bit different than yours. I was in somewhat of a hurry to get a new car too (my car was totaled in an accident and I was paying out of pocket for a rental car when I settled on an new A4), but ended up ordering my car from the factory as there were no 2012s on US soil yet but they were right around the corner. Took almost exactly 12 weeks all told.

I emailed a number of dealerships asking for a quote and several offered to order the car for me at invoice, which is what I ended up paying. I sympathize with your situation. I hate to haggle too but don't like the idea of being screwed (I ended up paying a few hundred dollars of dealer "prep" fees that I probably could have argued my way out of, but after 12 weeks of waiting right before signing a check for $42k, it seemed a little silly to get bent out of shape over it). I was asked to put down a $2,500 deposit. I said that was too much and gave them a grand, which they immediately agreed to. I was given a receipt, they took a copy of my license, we all signed (me, the salesman, and the sales manager) that the agreed upon price would be "dealer invoice" and that was that.

I would tell the guy you are just not willing to pay MSRP and are going to reconsider your options. See what happens. Guaranteed there will be some drop in price. If there are other dealerships within range, email them. Get a quote. Consider ordering exactly what you want and renting a cheap car for a few months and you may still come out a few thousand ahead.

Good luck!

Moviela

The invoice is not the dealer cost. It is a sales tool for the factory to show they sell cars to all dealers at the same price. For the average A4 the dealer cost is about $ 2,600 below invoice. Forget MSRP, that is a banner at the entrance to Fantasyland. The dealer will make plenty selling at invoice, and still feed the kids at a grand under.

If you can't outplay, outwit, outlast a salesmanager, get a broker to be your mouthpiece. Dealers know to give true bottom line prices to brokers, or the sale goes to his competition. You pay a little to the broker, but you save a lot more than the average buyer that gets rolled by the F&I closer.

psychodo

Some very good advice on this page worth following. Like you I'm quite a ways removed (though only 180 miles) from the closest dealer and the next closest dealer is a 6 hour drive. If you have access to an area (and it sounds like you do) with multiple dealers you stand a much better chance of getting a better deal through competition.

The internet was my primary tool to gauge price as negotiations are not my strength. Consumers reports/ kelly blue book and other sites will let you build the car then get a real world price. They have agreements with some dealerships for "best prices" which seemed consistent with what folks were paying. I think Sams club and other organizations have similar services (though i'm not sure if they are online services).

Bottom line - ask for a better price than MSRP, you have nothing to lose. Good luck!

boltsfan

Good info here. The goal is to ALWAYS pay below invoice. I have never bought a car above invoice and never will.

Never believe a sales guy when they say "we are making no money on this deal". It's total crap...

If they pretend it is their final offer... trust me it is not. Wait til the end of the month and then tell them what you want to pay (cap cost) and go from there.

RickG

Thanks again for the feedback everyone. I appreciate the input.

dk1

Plenty of good advice; I will add for this specific concern.

If you don't want to renegotiate the price of the car, talk to the dealer about adding something of value to you. You can say, "look, I am paying MSRP, which is what you asked, how about giving me something in return?" There is Audi care, warranties and protection plans, accessories - see what you want and what you can get. You are not going to get close to the price that you would have negotiated if you ordered a new config but if you get, say, Audi care thrown in it will save you about $800 or so.

In the future, if you don't want to drive around haggling for prices and you know what you want give True car a shot. Last car I bought was though them - the easiest car purchase ever. You see exactly what you are paying (plus tax and title).