Switched outlets
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 13,971
Likes: 3,366
From: Georgia
Are you wanting them all converted from term 87 (activated by relay controlled by J393) to term 30 (direct connected to the battery) or just one particular outlet?
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Are you wanting them all converted from term 87 (activated by relay controlled by J393) to term 30 (direct connected to the battery) or just one particular outlet?
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
Thread Starter
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Are you wanting them all converted from term 87 (activated by relay controlled by J393) to term 30 (direct connected to the battery) or just one particular outlet?
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
If all, the easy solution is replace the relay with a jumper wire. If one, the easy solution is pull the fuse and use an in-line fuse jumper wire to jumper the socket to term 30 on another fuse row.
You can see my diagram regarding the relay here, https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ght=12v+socket
Nova linked another thread in there that shows you the single socket solution.
AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 13,971
Likes: 3,366
From: Georgia
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uTcmPURTXc
This video gives you a visual of what you need to make at the most basic level. But I would not use a straight wire. I would use a wire with an in-line fuse. For '09-'12, there's no fuse on the term 30 12v feeding that relay. Anything goes wrong with your wire, there's no current brake.
Something like this, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cooper-Buss...o-Fuse/3138837 , with a 30A fuse. For '13-'16, Audi removed the individual socket fuses and put a single 20A fuse on the term 30 line feeding the relay. The wiring to and from the relay in the car is 4.0mm^2, or roughly 11awg.
With 12ga wiring, you'll need yellow colored terminals rather than blue. I suggest you pull the relay and measure the width and thickness of the blades and use matching sized male spade terminals on your wire to be most sure of a good grip.
Lastly, I would pull the fuse from the holder and wire in a multimeter in ammeter mode, hook your jumper wire up to the 30 and 87 terminals, and check that you read 0.0 current flow (make sure nothing's in any of the sockets). There should be zero current bleed across that line or you're going to end up with a dead battery.
This video gives you a visual of what you need to make at the most basic level. But I would not use a straight wire. I would use a wire with an in-line fuse. For '09-'12, there's no fuse on the term 30 12v feeding that relay. Anything goes wrong with your wire, there's no current brake.
Something like this, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cooper-Buss...o-Fuse/3138837 , with a 30A fuse. For '13-'16, Audi removed the individual socket fuses and put a single 20A fuse on the term 30 line feeding the relay. The wiring to and from the relay in the car is 4.0mm^2, or roughly 11awg.
With 12ga wiring, you'll need yellow colored terminals rather than blue. I suggest you pull the relay and measure the width and thickness of the blades and use matching sized male spade terminals on your wire to be most sure of a good grip.
Lastly, I would pull the fuse from the holder and wire in a multimeter in ammeter mode, hook your jumper wire up to the 30 and 87 terminals, and check that you read 0.0 current flow (make sure nothing's in any of the sockets). There should be zero current bleed across that line or you're going to end up with a dead battery.
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