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The key is proper paint correction BEFORE coating. That is what will make the coatings look that much better...
21" HRE P90L Wheels in Brushed Clear
2-stage compound + polish
35% tint all around + 90% on windshield (tint looks light in the photo but it is pretty dark)
2 coats of GYEON MOHS on wheels and car
Front end fully wrapped with SUNTEK Ultra
It is hard to tell the difference between a coated car and a very well waxed car as bob m mentioned above but the coating lasts and grime and bird poop just wash off with no stain marks, still have to be soft when washing the car but well worth getting done, I don't have any before pictures but here are the after pictures, you can see the clouds reflecting in the paint.
after dual coat of opti coat pro after dual coat of opti coat pro After first wash 2 weeks after coating 2 days after first wash
My work parking lot is full of seagulls and my A4 is ground zero. If you don't get it off quickly it definitely stains.
Installers generally work year-round and accelerate the curing process with heat lamps. The main concern immediately after application is keeping it dry for some mfr prescribed period.
Installers generally work year-round and accelerate the curing process with heat lamps. The main concern immediately after application is keeping it dry for some mfr prescribed period.
Bob, what he said. Also, how cold is cold? I would think there would be temperature application guidelines with the products too.
Thanks guys. Temperature-wise I was wondering about typical winter temps. Lately around me it's been in single digits and maybe up into the 20's. The heat lamp procedure makes sense - I was asol wondering if some detailers might keep the car and extra day or so in their shop for curing.
Thanks guys. Temperature-wise I was wondering about typical winter temps. Lately around me it's been in single digits and maybe up into the 20's. The heat lamp procedure makes sense - I was asol wondering if some detailers might keep the car and extra day or so in their shop for curing.
Bob, I am assuming you will be doing this yourself? Single digits are a no no. Besides, you would need to do all the prep work - washing, claying, paint correction which can't be done in that temperature. Or will you be using a heated garage? In that case, yes, all this could be done there. If done by a pro shop, they will have a properly heated garage and I would think they would keep it an extra day for curing.
Bob, I am assuming you will be doing this yourself? Single digits are a no no. Besides, you would need to do all the prep work - washing, claying, paint correction which can't be done in that temperature. Or will you be using a heated garage? In that case, yes, all this could be done there. If done by a pro shop, they will have a properly heated garage and I would think they would keep it an extra day for curing.
I'd have an authorized shop do the work. I was wondering about driving the car home in cold weather and putting it in a relatively cold garage during the curing time. After giving it some thought I don't think I'd do anything until spring.
01-15-2018, 06:04 AM
