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Help the electronics idiot

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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:41 PM
  #1  
Mike_L's Avatar
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Default Help the electronics idiot

Mechanical stuff, I'm extremely comfortable doing. Electronics, not so much. I need some help.

Gotta do a temporary boost gauge install. Need some connection points under the hood, and some in the car.

Under the hood I need; 12V and Ground (which I can find).
In the car; 12V, Ground, Switched 12V.

Just doing a temporary install, because theres really no place to put a gauge in this car, so connections that I can use quick disconnects would be best. Rather not deal with cutting and soldering.
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_L
Gotta do a temporary boost gauge install. Need some connection points under the hood, and some in the car.
Fuse box plus voltmeter plus fuse taps and bam!

Get a cheapo voltmeter from Harbor Freight for a buck or two, splurge on the nicer fuse taps (not the simple metal prong ones) though I know that's counter to your nature

Edit: look here for both kinds of fuse taps used in another application: https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard Solomon
Fuse box plus voltmeter plus fuse taps and bam!

Get a cheapo voltmeter from Harbor Freight for a buck or two, splurge on the nicer fuse taps (not the simple metal prong ones) though I know that's counter to your nature

Edit: look here for both kinds of fuse taps used in another application: https://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec43.shtml
Don't need to spend anything. I already have a Voltmeter, and I got fuse taps when they were on clearance from Rock Auto.

Just gotta figure out what fuses are constant and which are switched, which is a real nuisance when the car is constantly turning itself off.
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 05:53 AM
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Mike,
I'm not at home but search on hardwiring a radar detector. I used one of those fuse taps to install mine and hardwire and you should be able to get your 12v switched source. Either AW or AZ had some install threads.
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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I did the mechanical part and installed the boost tap. Haven't attempted the gauge yet. I have some serious porting to do before I get that far. This elbow is a horrible fit.

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Elbow removed

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Bypass throttle body. Unlike most bypasses which are vacuum controlled, this is 100% electronic. Tiny too, only 48mm.

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Bypass outlet, into the manifold. Look at where the gasket mark is. There is A LOT of material to be removed here. Not with the blower on the motor though. Thats asking for trouble.

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Bypass side of the elbow. Fair amount of material to be removed here too. Probably do it tomorrow.
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike_L
Just gotta figure out what fuses are constant and which are switched, which is a real nuisance when the car is constantly turning itself off.
The problem is that there are about a dozen fuse boxes in a C7, so tell us which one(s) are near where you want power...

Turn car all the way off and find a hot fuse - there's your constant 12V Switched could be more painful, but again let us know where to look.
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard Solomon
The problem is that there are about a dozen fuse boxes in a C7, so tell us which one(s) are near where you want power...

Turn car all the way off and find a hot fuse - there's your constant 12V Switched could be more painful, but again let us know where to look.
Someplace in the car. Probably the drivers side dash fusebox would be best. I'm just using a gauge cup and a hose clamp to attach the gauge to the steering column trim, so anyplace near there would work. If thats where the 12V power port or AMI fuses are, I'm golden. I know for sure that those are switched. My Security beacon won't stay running if I turn the car off, and that plugs into the 12V in the console.
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