IknowHuhA6

First of all Thank you to Schalliol for posting the original thread. I was already planning on doing this mod but my plans got expedited after finding this thread and curiosity started me researching earlier.
That post can be found here: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...k-mod-2894098/

I completed the retrofit buying a combination of new and used parts. All parts were sourced separately and no kit was bought from any one place. The trunk close feature is now working. Trunk motor opens trunk and new button in deck lid activates motor to close the trunk. Absolutely loving this mod. However I suggest you buy the controller used so you don't have to struggle with the new coding hassles of a brand new uncoded controller. A used controller will have settings already loaded in the unit making this a much easier process. A new uncoded (uninitialized) controller requires a WSC vagcom code entered and other information along with extra coding processes required that aren't as easy for the inexperienced.
There appear to be multiple model# controllers for A6/A7/A8
Search on ebay yielded A7 part 4G8959107R & 4G8959107P. A8 part came back with part 4H0959107P. I have no idea if these alternative units would work. I bought the correct new unit from dealer as shown in list below.

Many many thanks to Morski for putting up with my questions since i'm still very fairly new to understanding VagCom, and for starting me on the
right parts path by providing initial part numbers. (Number in parentheses refers to numbered schematic below)

(XX) 4G5 959 107 C Control Unit (controller)
(21) 4G5 827 851 B Drive unit (Trunk drive motor)
(XX) 4H0 827 383 A Striker plate (motorized unit under bottom latch)
(19) 4G5 827 603 Bracket (Ball flange Bracket to hook drive motor onto)
(22) XXX XXX XX Ball stud
(23) XXX XXX XX Ball stud sleeve

Also, major props to jkwelsh, who provided the last crucial piece of the physical puzzle. I was struggling with wire harness and building my own would have been
a nightmare of errors so his post saved me a ton of time and frustration!
And thank you to everyone else that helped post which got me closer and closer to figuring this out.

Parts were sourced from ebay and dealer. Total cost of new & used parts roughly came to 955.85 (excluding wire harness cost)

Wire harness ran $176.80+ tax & shipping.

So in my following posts I will start to describe the process and few photos I took to get this to work.

IknowHuhA6

Trunk floor cover
Removed to make access easier. This was easily done by uncliping it from two round clips just behind rear seats.

Spare tire & tools
Removed these to get access to battery. Negative terminal would eventually get disconnected before the electronic components started to get wired in.

Long plastic trim cover at trunk lip
I used a long flathead screwdriver to carefully pry it upwards and disengage metal clips underneath. Clips pull up and out of metal chassis below.

Rear seat side bolsters
The trunk side wall panels are tucked under the rear seat side bolsters so to make the job easier, the rear seat bench was removed so I could remove the side bolsters, and easily pull back on side panels.
It may be possible to just pull side panels inward and bungie tie them close together to provide access to new drive motor and fuse area while leaving rear bolsters in place, and leaving panels secured underneath them.

Cargo cubbie hole area
Not sure if it was necessary, but I first removed the trunk cargo area cover that conceals the rear trunk fuses. I unclipped bar with net. Turned plastic retainer clips counterclockwise 90 degrees and pulled them out. Pulled cargo area flooring slighty just enough to unclip trunk power port, and then removed cargo cover.

Trunk side panels
Now I could finally unlclip two plastic clips that secure side panels at top front and rear.
Removed trunk cargo hold downs with star socket.
I could then pull back on trunk wall liner to disengage it. I pulled from top down and inward into trunk as if tipping over a wall as i pried it out. This was easier for me since I had removed side bolsters making the side wall liner much more easy to move around and remove completely.

IknowHuhA6

On driver side, there was a couple of metal clips holding side trunk wall into chassis so had to yank bit harder. It was mainly the hold downs and the two upper plastic clips into bottom or speaker deck frame that really locks it into place.

I used bungee cords to hold side wall panels inward and give me enough room to work, or you could alternatively also remove side wall panels completely out of car. Also used bungees to prop and hold back trunk lid open. When it came time to install trunk motor a spring needs to be removed and the trunk won't stay open with the removed spring tension.

Trunk controller
Mounted easily. pushes in and slides toward front of car to lock into place.

Bracket with ball flange
Mounted up with bolts from local hardware store.

Ball stud
Small ball stud was tricky. not sure I mounted this correctly. You'll have to try and figure out best mounting option yourself. I had friend spot weld to secure it in place.

Trunk drive motor
Before clipping motor into place, I had to remove the stock spring because it's location conflicts with drive motor installation. But before removing spring I had to tie the trunk lid back to keep open since the spring removal decreases the hold-open tension.

IknowHuhA6

The elusive wiring harness I could not find, and finally obtained thanks to the help of forum members.

IknowHuhA6

Connection of trunk lid button. It's the light source where it taps into trunk light. The wiring all goes into the convenience control module shown in first photo.

There were two 10mm nuts toward rear side of car that hold it down.

IknowHuhA6

These are the wire connections into the Canbus.
More detailed information on this to come soon

IknowHuhA6

More info coming shortly

IknowHuhA6

I removed deck lid liner, I needed to route the wire for the trunk button. Also the trunk liner needed to be cut to allow installation of trunk close button. Great news is that existing liner already has plastic opening ready to receive trunk button and bezel. Just needed to cut out the hole to plug the parts in.

For more detailed explanation on deck lid liner removal, see page 99 of the top-view retrofit project.
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a6-...746/page10/#99

IknowHuhA6

After everything installed, reconnected negative post on battery and connected Vagcom.

I'm still investigating Basic Settings necessary to remove error codes. But with these changes in Vagcom the trunk mod is now working.

Can Gateway, I went to installation list and checked the box for trunk which is 6D. Big thanks to MrClopec for helping me figure this portion out.

In central convenience, I checked both the "trunk lid closing module" and "closing aid". Then hit the Do it.

However, all this didn't make anything work.. the trick was to go into output tests, and find the test trunk close. Hit this first time and noting happened, just clicking noise. But after hitting a second time... it finally closed the trunk.
Once this closed the trunk, the button on deck lid finally worked.

IknowHuhA6

So hope that helps paint a picture on how this went together. I'll update this thread with more info as I think of things I've forgotten to mention, or questions arise.

Thank you all on this forum who offer helpful advice.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cbedjyo2wg...O0026.mp4?dl=0