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Using ACNA as a start point in negotiating.

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Old 11-03-2013, 08:16 PM
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Default Using ACNA as a start point in negotiating.

I am planning to order MY2014 A6 around Christmas time (Prestige 3.0T, Daytona grey, black interior, Ash wood, black headliner, black optics, cold weather, LED and still not sure about driver assistance package . The car should be ready for delivery at early/mid-March (approx.3 month delivery time). The reason for this is that the car will have 20” wheels with summer tires. Since I live in Chicago area the winter will be hopefully over and I wouldn’t have to worry to think about an extra winter set of wheels or all-season tires until next November or so.
Now to the point. My coworker’s son works at Audi dealership and when I stopped by to check it out earlier this year to meet with people they offered me 5% off of MSRP right off the bat even without negotiating. After browsing this forum for a while and on recommendation of few members, I became ACNA member which gives me 6% off of MSRP. Dealer is getting reimbursed 2% from ACNA and 4% goes from dealer’s pocket. Since the dealer already offered me 5% off, should I try to start my negotiation at 7% and up or is it that once you go through ACNA, further negotiation is not possible and have to stick with 6%?
This is going to be my first luxury/Audi car so I am little excited. I was told that the relationship with the dealer is more important that few $$$ saved, but that shouldn’t be problem with the connection through my coworker. Thanks.
Old 11-03-2013, 09:24 PM
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I personally wouldn’t be too “greedy”. But asking for an additional 1% off seems reasonable.
You must have obtained an authorized ACNA personnel signature before visiting the dealership. Be sure to bring their completed eligibility form, a valid driver’s license and proof of insurance to the dealership, I would suggest before starting the negotiation. Remember that to be eligible for the discount your ACNA membership must be current and in good standing for a minimum of six (6) months prior to purchase (or lease). I think that means when ordering it, not the delivery 3 months later, but to be sure check with ACNA.
Also, where I live anyway, having a co-worker whose son works at the dealership isn’t worth much in terms of the dealership’s hierarchy giving you any price break unless the son takes it out of his commission. My neighbour and long-time friend is the dealership owner’s personal secretary and she could not really help me with discounting. She does put a word in if I have an issue scheduling a service appointment and things like that, but bottom line profitability is a different matter. Just saying.
Old 11-04-2013, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by irenesbob
Remember that to be eligible for the discount your ACNA membership must be current and in good standing for a minimum of six (6) months prior to purchase (or lease). I think that means when ordering it, not the delivery 3 months later, but to be sure check with ACNA.
The 6 month waiting period from initial membership applies to the date of delivery, not the date of order.

So he could join ACNA, wait 3 months and then order the car. When it arrives from Germany 3 months later it will have been 6 months and the 6% discount applies.
Old 11-04-2013, 03:10 AM
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I was able to get 6% off and then Audi Care for 50% off without being in ACNA. That said all dealers in Georgia add on a $600 dealer fee so I got around 5.8% off and did not have to spend anything to join ACNA or wait 6 months for ACNA discount to apply. If you have multiple dealers in your area try to get them to compete for your sale.
Old 11-04-2013, 03:51 AM
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I placed an order and the deal was done based on the ACNA 6% off MSRP. However, when I inquired the dealer about the certificate redemption, they didn't want it during the order. The dealer only needs it when I do the paperwork during delivery. I elected not to request the certificate from ACNA until the car arrives at port - because I don't want to have it get misplaced in 3 months.
Old 11-06-2013, 09:11 AM
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I'm not even sure why they are requiring a certificate. It ought to be enough that you show up with your membership card showing the "member since" date on it. I was one of many who opposed the new ACNA benefit, though it's hard to complain about something that's essentially free. Most of us could negotiate a similar or better deal independent of the ACNA membership and still pocket the $500 old benefit that could be applied towards a set of tires or aftermarket wheels or whatever.
Old 12-11-2013, 06:57 PM
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I have few questions before I order my car later this week.

1. What is the current wait time for A6?
2. To my understanding the price has to be negotiated on the day of order and a deposit has to be made. Is there any special piece of paper or order guide with the price agreed on that needs to be signed by both of us? Should all the option be listed on that agreement since VIN number won't be available at the time of order?
3. If I decide to trade in my car, would dealer honor the trade in value on delivery date when I let him appraise the car now? Should I expect to get close to KBB or NADA trade in values? The reason I am asking, one dealer offered 8% off of MSRP but lowballed me on trade in.

Thanks
Old 12-11-2013, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by gogo_vs
I have few questions before I order my car later this week.

1. What is the current wait time for A6?
2. To my understanding the price has to be negotiated on the day of order and a deposit has to be made. Is there any special piece of paper or order guide with the price agreed on that needs to be signed by both of us? Should all the option be listed on that agreement since VIN number won't be available at the time of order?
3. If I decide to trade in my car, would dealer honor the trade in value on delivery date when I let him appraise the car now? Should I expect to get close to KBB or NADA trade in values? The reason I am asking, one dealer offered 8% off of MSRP but lowballed me on trade in.

Thanks
1. It can take any where from 8 to 14 weeks from order to delivery depending on your location, dealer allocations and ship schedules. Usually 12 weeks is about average.

2. It's highly recommended to get everything finalized at time of order and sealed with a deposit. Everything should be agreed upon and spelled out in writing in the sales order to avoid surprises later; this includes the options, final price, prep fees, sales tax, registration, etc. Be sure to tell them you want the FINAL price on the order.

3. Dealers will often provide a solid trade value at time of order and can set an agreed upon max mileage allowed for when the new car arrives. It's also assumed that the condition of the trade will be the same as when appraised.

Don't allow the dealer to get you into the purchase price/trade in difference game. The price of the new car and the trade should be completely separate negotiations. Get the lowest price possible on the new car and then negotiate the trade amount as a stand-alone agreement. One way to tell if they are playing this game is if they refuse to honor the new car price if you opt to sell your trade on your own. You can then always try to sell the car yourself to a private buyer before the new car arrives which will almost always provide more money (don't forget to factor in the sales tax savings if traded in most states). Also, check out CarMax - others have reported they offer more on an outright sale than dealers will as a trade.

Be aware, dealers don't use KBB, NADA, Black Book or any online value for trades. They use an auction subscription service that shows them what similar cars have sold for at wholesale which invariably will be lower than the consumer trade in value guides.
Old 12-11-2013, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by snagitseven
Be aware, dealers don't use KBB, NADA, Black Book or any online value for trades. They use an auction subscription service that shows them what similar cars have sold for at wholesale which invariably will be lower than the consumer trade in value guides.
I thought the black book is basically auction price, no?
Old 12-11-2013, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by q5q7
I thought the black book is basically auction price, no?
Nah. Most of them go off Galves values or from recent Manheim auctions.

Its important to remember, you may get less for a trade than a sale, but most states also have tax advantages. For instance, in NY, I can take 8.875% less, because I save that in taxes.


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