SocsHillClimber

After hardwiring the passport last night I have a few questions.

1. What's the best way to keep the wire up inside the headliner next to the windshield ? I want it to stay up there and not have a bunch of tape visible.

2. It seems like my fuse # 27 was taken by the wheel/seat heater, but I found another 10 amp fuse available, but turns out that one is hot all the time. I need a fuse that turns on / off with the key ? Also, do I have to use a 10 amp fuse or will any fuse work?

Thanks.

srleo
99 a6 2.8 quattro

Keith

1. I used zip ties and secured the wires and fuse holder behind the fuse box

2. I tapped into the fuse for the heated steering wheel (which was not used in my car) - if you study the fuse lay-out, I'm sure there is at least one other location that is switched. If you are using the hard wire kit from Escort, you should have an in-line fuse already - all you need to do is tap into the hot side of an existing fuse location.

beep-beep

1. I put a few nuts on the wire so they fit tide under the headliner.

2. The Radar detector consumes less than 0.5A. You can use any fuse. I have wagon, so I used real wiper. You can turn ignison off and on and check right fuse for you with multimeter.

Go Xavier !

and then the radar detector turns off when car is off. I installed the smart cord and put it on dash infront of speedometer area. Don't worry about wire staying up in there. It will!

letitsnow

1. I found nothing extra was required to keep the wiring in place going to my V1, just slide it under the headliner and down the left side of the windshield, then on to the fuse box area.

2. Instead of fussing around with the fuses, why not just go to the 12vdc buss that feeds the fuse box. The last terminal on the left is the switched dc in my car. Just tie into this by removing the nut and placing a stake-on (solderless connector) over the terminal and replacing the nut. The wire crimped to this connector should feed directly into an inline fuse, keep the lead length as short as possible as you don't want any unfused 12vdc lurking under the dash. The positive supply to the detector then feeds off the other side of the inline fuse. Tie the ground lead of the detector to any chasis screw for the negative feed.

No goofy fuse extenders are needed, the appearance and function of the fuse panel remains unchanged and unimpared, and you have the correct value fuse (probably 1/4 to 1/2 amp) feeding the detector.