Control Arm Failure Analysis
#1
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Control Arm Failure Analysis
I replace the eight front control arms on my 2.7T with "improved" Meyle ones around 1.5 years ago. Just yesterday I had to replace the upper-left-front arm because the ball joint had play in it. I couldn't understand how this part could have failed given that I drive on pretty smooth roads. When I cut the boot open I realized that the failure was mainly caused by corrosion. Moisture had likely entered the joint causing the metal ball to pit badly. The resulting rough surface wore away the polymer socket.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/82886/img_7062.jpg">
How did moisture get into the joint? Through the metal cap on top? Via the ruuber seal? In the future I plan on "sealing" the ball joint assemblies with some waxy lubricant (like Amsoil chain lube / metal protectant). It should seal any tiny leaks and not wear off.
BTW, my "improved" outer tie-rod end also has play, so it will have to be replaced as well.
Mike
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/82886/img_7062.jpg">
How did moisture get into the joint? Through the metal cap on top? Via the ruuber seal? In the future I plan on "sealing" the ball joint assemblies with some waxy lubricant (like Amsoil chain lube / metal protectant). It should seal any tiny leaks and not wear off.
BTW, my "improved" outer tie-rod end also has play, so it will have to be replaced as well.
Mike
#3
If there was good grease in there, that wouldn't have happened...
the lack of proper lubrication is the problem. Adding grease fittings, and injecting some Mobil1 synthetic grease helps big time.
#4
Audiworld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: I agree...
The grease they used was a failure. It looked like caked silt that you find behind fenders and in eaves troughs. Would you be brave enough to poke a hypodermic needle through the rubber boot and inject grease? Given how unreliable these parts seem to be, it doesn't sound like there's much to lose.
Mike
Mike
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#8
Drill holes, and either use self tapping grease fittings, or tap, and insert the fittings.
you may have to use a washer to space the fitting far enough from the ball, but I've had grease fittings on all of my B5s and C5 control arms.
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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I did the hypodermic needle M1 grease injection thing...
on my A6's original control arms. It worked great. About a year later, I decided to replace them all with Febi/Bilstein parts. I've heard before that the "Meyle improved" parts are problematic.
Best,
Best,
#10
I will be replacing my CA's soon and was thinking about adding zerk fittings. But since the joint
isn't designed for this will it really help? By this I am referring to joints designed for fitting such as agricultural drive shafts where you pump grease in until it pushes thru the joint and leaks out. So you are basically greasing and cleaning the joint. Since the grease won't come out of the CA joint, is it really going to help to shove more in? The original grease can't really be displaced. I would like to hear more of your thoughts on this and if you feel that you have improved the longevity of the joints.