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For the few that asked about upper front control arm procedure.

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Old 04-01-2010, 04:04 PM
  #31  
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So what do you do if the air hammer techniquw does not work? I currently have the entire front spindle support with the upper control arms attached. Hdd originally tried an impact wrench on the bolt head; all that did was to twist the bolt head right off. Is drilling this bolt out very practical. I've got about 3/4" of bolt sticking out of one side. I thought once I got the assembly out I could drive the bolt out with a sledge, but this has not worked to this point. What's the best way to get the joint red/white hot, that may allow one to drive the bolt out? I am replacing the upper control arms so I can sacrifice the current control arms.
Old 04-01-2010, 04:18 PM
  #32  
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That bolt never seems to come out the same way twice. Being patient and trying different things works. Usually just beating the hell out of it does not...as you found out.

I've used a bunch of different methods. One thing that seems to work is using the nut to move the bolt. Try tightening (not with an impact) the nut back on and see of the bolt will budge.

Generally speaking, the rust tends to bloat the threaded end more than the smooth end. With the head torn off, you might be able to drive the bolt through toward the threads.
Old 04-23-2010, 06:04 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Everton
So what do you do if the air hammer techniquw does not work? I currently have the entire front spindle support with the upper control arms attached. Hdd originally tried an impact wrench on the bolt head; all that did was to twist the bolt head right off. Is drilling this bolt out very practical. I've got about 3/4" of bolt sticking out of one side. I thought once I got the assembly out I could drive the bolt out with a sledge, but this has not worked to this point. What's the best way to get the joint red/white hot, that may allow one to drive the bolt out? I am replacing the upper control arms so I can sacrifice the current control arms.
With the assembly out the sledge would not work? I've got a job ahead of me then.

I loosened the nut and tried to hammer out the bolt. No go. I then tried to turn the bolt. It was extremely difficult but when it finally started to turn, the end with the nut did not. Obviously the bolt is broken.

And I didn't even have to touch it. I was replacing the front axle assembly. After the pinch bolt removal failure, I separated the rear lower control arm from the spindle and was easily able to pull out the axle.
Old 04-24-2010, 09:19 AM
  #34  
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No way Kris, that would be a huge disservice. Yours has guided me through three different jobs now.
Old 04-25-2010, 06:55 AM
  #35  
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I like 4D4's proposal to use the nut to pull the pinch bolt through, at least until the bolt bottoms on the threads. Cut off the bolt head (or use an impact wrench to twist off the bolt head...if the entire bolt turns you're generally home free...the bolt can be driven out if the entire bolt turns!) and draw the bolt through...if the entire bolt turns with the nut bottomed out on the bolt threads you're in the same position as if the bolt head turns the entire bolt from the other end. Then drive the bolt out.
Old 04-25-2010, 10:13 AM
  #36  
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I've been pretty happy with my craftsman set. $44 for 8-19mm inclusive, $44 for 8-pc standard set. I've broken one ever, and I abuse my tools. Getting a new one was as easy as walking into Sears.
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