For the few that asked about upper front control arm procedure.
06-24-2005, 12:24 PM
#1
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For the few that asked about upper front control arm procedure.
This should save some folks some time by eliminating some unecessary steps that I have seen in some other write ups. Corrections and clarifications to follow.
1. A day or two ahead of time, you should spray the pinch bolt with some penetrating oil. Raise car and remove wheel. Better if you have a lift, but very doable with jack stands.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1421.jpg">
2. Remove the lock nut from the pinch bolt. This is most often a 16mm, but Ive seen quite a few 17mm nut and bolt. I'm assuming thats because they have been replaced in the past.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1422.jpg">
3. With a high quality air hammer, drive the pinch bolt out far enough to release the front arm. Notice the 3/8 drive 1/2 inch socket over the bolt. Its actually a deep well socket thats been cut down. The purpose of the socket is to keep the air punch centered on the bolt and from slipping off. If the bolt is seized, the end will mushroom. In this case drive the bolt out completely and replace the nut and bolt (M10X50 8.8 grade bolt and M10 selflocking nut). As a rule we replace all but the most pristene bolts. Note that a high quality air hammer is needed here. The ones in the $89 kit from Sams will not work. There is no need to use a hammer except to drive the bolt the rest of the way out once it is broken loose.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1423.jpg">
4. Remove the 3 16mm bolts in the engine compartment
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1424.jpg">
5. With a suitable pry bar, pry the bracket away from the inner fender well. Next to bolt opening closest to you, there is a locating stud. If the bracket has not been moved before,there will be a lock washer over the locating stud. The lock washer will come off by prying on the bracket or you can cut it off with some side cutters. It does not need to be replaced as its only purpose was in the original assembly at the factory. Once the bracket is low enough to clear the length of the locating stud, shift the assembly rearward. Its not necessary to lower the bracket very much, only enough to shift it rearward so the bolt holding the front arm has room to be removed.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1425.jpg">
6. With 2 16mm wrenches, remove the bolt holding the front arm. Gear wrenches work very well here. Remove the bad arm and install the new part keeping the nut and bolt loose for the moment.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1426.jpg">
7. Position the new arm relative to where it would be with the car on the ground and tighten the nut and bolt. This usually means about parallel with the floor. Jay here has his own 3 chubby finger measurement.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1427.jpg">
8. Install the ball joint end back into the housing and tighten the pinch bolt. Use some antiseize compound on the bolt to save somebody some time down the road.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1428.jpg">
9. Move the upper bracket back over the locating stud and install the 3 16mm bolts in the engine area. Install the wheel and torque lugnuts properly and your done.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1429.jpg">
Even with the most stuborn of pinch bolts, this procedure should take no longer than 30 minutes. There is no hammering and no need to touch any other part of the suspension to do this job. If Jay can do it, so can you.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/napoleon.1.jpg">
1. A day or two ahead of time, you should spray the pinch bolt with some penetrating oil. Raise car and remove wheel. Better if you have a lift, but very doable with jack stands.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1421.jpg">
2. Remove the lock nut from the pinch bolt. This is most often a 16mm, but Ive seen quite a few 17mm nut and bolt. I'm assuming thats because they have been replaced in the past.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1422.jpg">
3. With a high quality air hammer, drive the pinch bolt out far enough to release the front arm. Notice the 3/8 drive 1/2 inch socket over the bolt. Its actually a deep well socket thats been cut down. The purpose of the socket is to keep the air punch centered on the bolt and from slipping off. If the bolt is seized, the end will mushroom. In this case drive the bolt out completely and replace the nut and bolt (M10X50 8.8 grade bolt and M10 selflocking nut). As a rule we replace all but the most pristene bolts. Note that a high quality air hammer is needed here. The ones in the $89 kit from Sams will not work. There is no need to use a hammer except to drive the bolt the rest of the way out once it is broken loose.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1423.jpg">
4. Remove the 3 16mm bolts in the engine compartment
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1424.jpg">
5. With a suitable pry bar, pry the bracket away from the inner fender well. Next to bolt opening closest to you, there is a locating stud. If the bracket has not been moved before,there will be a lock washer over the locating stud. The lock washer will come off by prying on the bracket or you can cut it off with some side cutters. It does not need to be replaced as its only purpose was in the original assembly at the factory. Once the bracket is low enough to clear the length of the locating stud, shift the assembly rearward. Its not necessary to lower the bracket very much, only enough to shift it rearward so the bolt holding the front arm has room to be removed.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1425.jpg">
6. With 2 16mm wrenches, remove the bolt holding the front arm. Gear wrenches work very well here. Remove the bad arm and install the new part keeping the nut and bolt loose for the moment.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1426.jpg">
7. Position the new arm relative to where it would be with the car on the ground and tighten the nut and bolt. This usually means about parallel with the floor. Jay here has his own 3 chubby finger measurement.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1427.jpg">
8. Install the ball joint end back into the housing and tighten the pinch bolt. Use some antiseize compound on the bolt to save somebody some time down the road.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1428.jpg">
9. Move the upper bracket back over the locating stud and install the 3 16mm bolts in the engine area. Install the wheel and torque lugnuts properly and your done.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/100_1429.jpg">
Even with the most stuborn of pinch bolts, this procedure should take no longer than 30 minutes. There is no hammering and no need to touch any other part of the suspension to do this job. If Jay can do it, so can you.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/75436/napoleon.1.jpg">
06-24-2005, 12:38 PM
#3
That's great if you have a high quality air hammer, a lift, infinate patience and gear wrenches...
for the rest of us (even I don't have an air hammer yet, why I have no idea, or gear wrenches, again, why I have no idea)
I assume you refer to my writeup as having 'extra' steps, but my way is basicaly directly out of teh Bentley save for dropping the tie rod to back the pinch bolt out. If I ever get around to getting a good hammer, I'll probably do it that way next time.
I assume you refer to my writeup as having 'extra' steps, but my way is basicaly directly out of teh Bentley save for dropping the tie rod to back the pinch bolt out. If I ever get around to getting a good hammer, I'll probably do it that way next time.
