kavillage007

Another issue I found is that the pipe from the driver side combi valve is broken...Below is the picture...

Now the question is, do I have to replace the whole pipe or can I just replace the piece between the combi valve and the metal pipe??? what is this pipe called??? part number or name?? thanks...

kavillage007

Another question, is the SAI pump supposed to start every time you start the car, or only when the car is cold???

jseklund

Use the vag-com to turn it on and then check the voltage. I am not sure if ALWAYS comes on during the first 10 seconds, and I have noticed it coming on after driving for about 2 minutes and then coming to a stop, when the engine is not up to temp yet....the vag-com would be the most reliable way to check.

kavillage007

Thanks for the reply. So as I mentioned earlier, I had a torn out vacuum line from the driver side combi valve that goes to the stainless pipe and then to the t-connector. I replaced those pipes. Put everything back. and started the car. The pump kicked in (I think it only kicks on when the car is cold)

Now I'm going to clear the code, and see if it stays off for good. thanks guys. will keep you updated.

Quickd42

Before replacing secondary air pump on 98 Audi A6 Quattro, I'm checking a few things. I replaced the pump relay and tried to replace the pump fuse in the ECU relay panel, but didn't see a place for the 40 amp fuse. Do all engines require this fuse? Maybe I'm missing something. Only 80K miles and have owned for 10yrs and am convinced it's not the pump. I'm thinking it's a hose or the power supply. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

georgeb944

If you are certain that it is not the pump, verify that by removing the electrical connector to the pump and give it 12 vdc on one connector and ground on the other. The pump should power up and make that dentist drill sound.

The 40 amp fuse for the SAI pump is located in the box that holds the ECU, under the cowl cover, at the base of the windshield, driver side.

Quickd42

Thanks georgeb944,
So there is no 40 amp fuse in the panel. I replaced the pump relay (J299) (plugs were pretty burnt at the bases) but there wasn't a pump fuse (S130) to be replaced. I'm wondering if this amp is necessary or possibly taken out and not replaced a while back when I had some work done.

meternerd

Are you using a high impedance VOM? These can give "phantom voltage" readings for voltages across an open circuit. Have you checked voltage from the positive pin to ground? Have you checked the negative pin resistance to ground to verify a solid ground? The fact that it runs when you jumper it tells me the relay is faulty or you are not getting full voltage to the relay coil. Seems like voltage should be higher than 10 volts to solidly energize the relay. The 3.4 volts before is probably the phantom voltage I was talking about. Relays normally see zero or full battery voltage. A test lamp or a dial type analog meter might be a better tool, since it will load the circuit. I have the exact same car as you do. My SAI pump starts maybe 10 seconds after starting and runs about 30 sec, then shuts off. Only when the engine is cold, though.

Quickd42

Does anyone know why there wouldn't be a place for a 40amp in the ecu sai relay panel? Would it be someplace else? Every picture or diagram has a place for it. Any help would be appreciated

Quickd42

Does anyone know why there wouldn't be a place for a 40amp in the ecu sai relay panel? Would it be someplace else? Every picture or diagram has a place for it. Any help would be appreciated