Andy (Portland, OR)

I've got the torque spec for the filter, since it's printed right on it.

If you're wondering about the oil change questions, when I get back home with the car late, late, tomorrow night, it will have about 700 miles on it. I plan the first oil change right away and a fill with Mobil 1, 0-40W. (Changed my Porsche filter at 500 miles, and you wouldn't believe the amount of metal shavings.)

Thanks, Andy

Finman

against early oil changes...something about "breaking" the engine in and seating rings properly...early changes are thought to impede this process and lead to persistent oil "burning"...

That said...a 10mm allen wrench will get that bad boy off...but I have no idea on torque...I use the turn it 'til it's tight method...

Changing the oil sucks...just make sure you have a pan/receptacle that can take a lot of oil quickly...my 12 quart pan with the big wide collector...couldn't handle it (too narrow at the funnel end) and it overflowed.

Otherwise, the oil filter is in a tight, annoying, spill oil on yourself and the engine-kinda place and can be extremely tight...and difficult to get at with many oil wrenches...I had to go get one of the open ended pliers-like wrenches...

You're probably an expert at changing oil and have your own lift and everything...I'm just commenting on the things I found annoying about changing oil in these cars...my CRX with 3.6 quarts of oil and an easily accessible filter was much, much easier.

Andy (Portland, OR)

I've done this in a variety of new cars (Audi, BMW, Honda, Toyota, Porsche) over the last decade and I never had one of the cars burn as much as one quart of oil between changes, so I'll stick w/ my method, even if it's nothing more than "dumb luck."

Andy

PS: The Porsche holds an enormous amount of oil also (>9 qts.) so I'm prepared for that aspect of it. Access issues are another thing altogether -- I'll just have to try it for myself. You may end up being able to tell me "I told you so."

Finman

The rate at which the oil comes out is just too much for my damn oil pan...but otherwise that part isn't bad...
The plastic pan covering the underside of the engine isn't bad either...although it takes a couple minutes to figure out (how to get back on)...but o/w it's easy...just use a short screwdriver for the wheel well screws.

As far as the first oil change interval...I'm just repeating what others have said...and perhaps coincidentally here, a few 2.7T owners who said they changed early have since had problems with oil usage. The 2.8 and 4.2 engines don't "seem" to have as many people remarking on oil usage...although 2.7T owners make up ~60% of the A6 posters...may be just a matter of numbers.

oops

seach for idiot in the archives, finman shows up. :-P

HPH

...about how Audis come from the factory with "special" break-in oil (which one guy told me was M1 0W30) and are designed to be run to the first scheduled change with that oil. They also talked about some interesting "special" coating on the cylinder walls that help the process. The same lecture has applied for both the 2.8 (12 & 30V) and the 2.7T block.

I've always wondered about how truly precise this is, but that's what they've said. HPH

Capt Ron

If all this talk about "special break in oil"
were true, then Audi would have a part number
for use in cars that require an oil replace/refill for service reasons prior to normal service interval.

Regards

phred

they post a long, very detailed, official-seeming post that confirms that yes, there is a break-in oil and if you change it too soon you will get hair on your palms. Or something.

I would think that 700 miles is awfully soon to do a change. Cantya wait for a few grand?

mlsaudivw

There is no such thing as this break in oil.Unless those sevice Techs have been to Gyor in Hungary,yes the TT factory where the engines are built they have no clue.