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Brake pads/rotors replacement cost ?
03-03-2013, 11:04 PM
#11
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Hello,
The light regarding my brake pads (2006 A6 4.2 s-line) came on so I went to get an estimate (at a local gas garage - I will go to NTB next) to replace them. I was told that now, you need to replace the rotors along with the pads (they told me that they do not resurface rotors anymore and that rotors are just too soft for the brake pads these days). Here is the estimate I got
Front: labor $ 167, parts $571
Rear: labor $279, parts $812
Four wheel brake system flush: $119
Total $1775 What ????
This seems crazy high. What are people paying these days for such a job?
Thx
The light regarding my brake pads (2006 A6 4.2 s-line) came on so I went to get an estimate (at a local gas garage - I will go to NTB next) to replace them. I was told that now, you need to replace the rotors along with the pads (they told me that they do not resurface rotors anymore and that rotors are just too soft for the brake pads these days). Here is the estimate I got
Front: labor $ 167, parts $571
Rear: labor $279, parts $812
Four wheel brake system flush: $119
Total $1775 What ????
This seems crazy high. What are people paying these days for such a job?
Thx
Own an Audi, and pay the Audi tax.
Brake jobs are very easy on most cars; never did a brake job on an Audi.
How long does it take to do a brake job, front and back??
About 2 six packs and one hot afternoon.
03-04-2013, 12:53 AM
#12
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It's very easy to do yourself, and only takes half an hour to replace the pads if you know what you're doing. I've replaced the front pads twice on mine, and the rear pads once. Rear pads a little trickier, because you need the VAG-COM to disengage the e-brake. There's a way to do it without the VAG-COM, but I never looked into it since I have the VAG-COM.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
03-14-2013, 08:59 AM
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Littleton, CO
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It's very easy to do yourself, and only takes half an hour to replace the pads if you know what you're doing. I've replaced the front pads twice on mine, and the rear pads once. Rear pads a little trickier, because you need the VAG-COM to disengage the e-brake. There's a way to do it without the VAG-COM, but I never looked into it since I have the VAG-COM.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
03-14-2013, 09:02 AM
#14
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The minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor, or you can look it up in the shop manual, which I don't have available right now because I'm at work.
03-14-2013, 10:11 AM
#15
At a 100k, you really should be changing out the rotors. They've gone through a LOT of work and the heat/cooling does cause additional depreciation of their worth. If it were my car and having NEVER changed the rotors at that high a mark, I'd DEFINETELY be changing the rotors when I did the brake pads.
03-14-2013, 11:05 AM
#16
Coincidentally I'm just about to order rotors and pads for mine. 2nd set of pads at 83000 miles. First time to change rotors. They have a pretty noticeable rim at the edge. I'm sure they are under the thickness spec this time. I did Pagid OEM compound last time and they have been excellent.
Tire Rack has a nice Stoptech set. I'll probably get rotors and pads from them this go round. I hear good reports from their street performance pad. I value braking efficiency over being low dust so no worries there. The Pagids were very dusty. These won't be worse. I wash the car at least weekly anyway.
Here is my Tire rack shopping cart.
Item Description Availability Qty. Price Each Item Total
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Rear Left fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Rear Right fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech Street Performance Pads Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$85.00 $85.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech Street Performance Pads Rear fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
Fewer than 2, Additional Due 03/27/13
$86.00 $86.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
Fewer than 2, Additional Due 03/27/13
$86.00 $86.00
Estimated Shipping Cost* (ZIP/Postal Code: 35173):
Total:
Pending
$428.00
Total: $428.00
Tire Rack has a nice Stoptech set. I'll probably get rotors and pads from them this go round. I hear good reports from their street performance pad. I value braking efficiency over being low dust so no worries there. The Pagids were very dusty. These won't be worse. I wash the car at least weekly anyway.
Here is my Tire rack shopping cart.
Item Description Availability Qty. Price Each Item Total
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Rear Left fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Rear Right fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech Street Performance Pads Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$85.00 $85.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech Street Performance Pads Rear fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
In Stock
$57.00 $57.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
Fewer than 2, Additional Due 03/27/13
$86.00 $86.00
Remove
Save to Wish List
StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor Front fitment
for 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Quattro Base Model
Fewer than 2, Additional Due 03/27/13
$86.00 $86.00
Estimated Shipping Cost* (ZIP/Postal Code: 35173):
Total:
Pending
$428.00
Total: $428.00
Last edited by J. Patterson; 03-14-2013 at 12:20 PM.
03-14-2013, 12:18 PM
#17
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At a 100k, you really should be changing out the rotors. They've gone through a LOT of work and the heat/cooling does cause additional depreciation of their worth. If it were my car and having NEVER changed the rotors at that high a mark, I'd DEFINETELY be changing the rotors when I did the brake pads.
03-18-2013, 04:07 PM
#19
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Zero... Really more for looks and some minor cooling/venting of gases. I have had them off and on over the years on most of my cars and really notice no difference (stock vs. drilled) as the brake pads and regular brake fluid changes make the most difference IMO.
03-18-2013, 05:48 PM
#20
Agreed 100% It's a vanity thing. I've run plain rotors with track pads on the TT at track events and actually like them better than slotted. The slotted tend to roar a bit when you really use them. Drilled rotors look cool but they crack sooner under track use. The best cooling feature IMHO is directional inner vanes which pump more air than the straight vane type.