09-06-2016, 11:06 AM
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- Audi A6 C6 How to Replace Brake Pads Calipers Rotors<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Brake pads/rotors replacement cost ?
04-24-2013, 08:34 AM
#31
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z06bigbird put it in perspective.
Own a Corvette and pay the Corvette tax.
Own an Audi, and pay the Audi tax.
I am useless with tools.
I always go to the dealership for all my repairs (including changing the windshield wipers).
To me it depends on how much your time is worth.
Can you make the same or better by trading the time I would have to spend working on the car vs. working the same time at work.
Own a Corvette and pay the Corvette tax.
Own an Audi, and pay the Audi tax.
I am useless with tools.
I always go to the dealership for all my repairs (including changing the windshield wipers).
To me it depends on how much your time is worth.
Can you make the same or better by trading the time I would have to spend working on the car vs. working the same time at work.
04-29-2013, 07:12 AM
#32
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That is why your grandmother drove a (92--96) Buick Century or Olds Cutlass Ciera. They never broke down. Parts were cheap. 14 inch tires, very few electronic components, etc. BTW, liability insurance (no collision ins) for people with those cars was and still is about $60 every 6 months. STS-V, CTS-V, ($120,000) Mercedes sports car--$2000 every 6 months if you do not have any tickets. Plus about $2,000 per year for tires, since they are very soft rubber and wear out with 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Several years ago, when Lexus sold the auto parking feature (that parks your car), I heard that the repairs on that component were about $2000. Not sure of today's cost.
Heck, I recently needed a half inch rubber neoprene O ring for a GM master cylinder reservoir. My wholesale cost was $10. NAPA probably sells a box of them for UNDER $10.
P. S. Call me when your grandma does. I will buy her Buick, and it is likely to have 30,000 miles on it.
05-06-2013, 08:45 AM
#33
If you don't like spending $$ for parts and repairs, stay far away from all luxury cars, including BMW and Mercedes.
That is why your grandmother drove a (92--96) Buick Century or Olds Cutlass Ciera. They never broke down. Parts were cheap. 14 inch tires, very few electronic components, etc. BTW, liability insurance (no collision ins) for people with those cars was and still is about $60 every 6 months. STS-V, CTS-V, ($120,000) Mercedes sports car--$2000 every 6 months if you do not have any tickets. Plus about $2,000 per year for tires, since they are very soft rubber and wear out with 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Several years ago, when Lexus sold the auto parking feature (that parks your car), I heard that the repairs on that component were about $2000. Not sure of today's cost.
Heck, I recently needed a half inch rubber neoprene O ring for a GM master cylinder reservoir. My wholesale cost was $10. NAPA probably sells a box of them for UNDER $10.
P. S. Call me when your grandma does. I will buy her Buick, and it is likely to have 30,000 miles on it.
That is why your grandmother drove a (92--96) Buick Century or Olds Cutlass Ciera. They never broke down. Parts were cheap. 14 inch tires, very few electronic components, etc. BTW, liability insurance (no collision ins) for people with those cars was and still is about $60 every 6 months. STS-V, CTS-V, ($120,000) Mercedes sports car--$2000 every 6 months if you do not have any tickets. Plus about $2,000 per year for tires, since they are very soft rubber and wear out with 10,000 to 15,000 miles.
Several years ago, when Lexus sold the auto parking feature (that parks your car), I heard that the repairs on that component were about $2000. Not sure of today's cost.
Heck, I recently needed a half inch rubber neoprene O ring for a GM master cylinder reservoir. My wholesale cost was $10. NAPA probably sells a box of them for UNDER $10.
P. S. Call me when your grandma does. I will buy her Buick, and it is likely to have 30,000 miles on it.
Oh, I don't have a problem spending the money when it's needed. I rather enjoy being on top of my maintenance.
I also enjoy the quality parts that are available to the VAG group. I've worked on all of my cars and I've owned Japanese, Swedes, American, and Germans and now I'm back again.
That said, I'd rather own the German car that costs more to own and work on since I can do quite a bit of the maintenance and modifications myself. My last car was a newly leased Ford; and while maintenance free driving was cool with the lease, I was paying depreciation out the nose
And BTW, my grandma drove an Olds' 88 way back in the day but that was a POS.
08-04-2015, 12:59 PM
#34
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I'm going to attempt to do this by myself instead of taking it to my mechanic. Once it's complete, will the brake pad warning light go out or do I need to take an additional step to make this happen?
I'm a first timer!
Thanks!
I'm a first timer!
Thanks!
08-04-2015, 04:17 PM
#35
AudiWorld Member
The brake pad warning light will go off. The new pads should come with a sensor embedded in the pad. You will need to disconnect the old sensor wire and attach the new one when you replace the pads. If you are doing the rears, make sure you have a vagcom to retract the electronic parking brake.
07-18-2018, 03:05 PM
#36
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I just had front pads and rotors done on my 2014 A6 at the dealers for a cool $1000! He, too, told me rotors must be replaced with pads on all German cars these days and that my 34,000 was "about right" for needing front pads and rotors - rear still has about 60%. I'll be looking elsewhere for my next brake job as I, too, think $1000 every 33,000 miles is outrageous.
07-18-2018, 10:41 PM
#37
AudiWorld Super User
The wear limit on the rotors is about 1 mm (0.39 inch) per surface (2 mm total). Unless a rotor is warped or damaged, my standard practice is to replace the rotors on the second pad replacement. But I don't track or abuse the brakes, so my practice works well on the Audis and VWs I have owned since 1976. On my 2006 A6 Avant, I changed the front original rotors at 82,730 miles, and the rear rotors at 68,551 miles. And my cost for changing the pads and rotors is about ~$200 for the front and ~$150 for the rear with a few hours of labor.
07-02-2022, 09:27 PM
#38
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Need impact wrench
It's very easy to do yourself, and only takes half an hour to replace the pads if you know what you're doing. I've replaced the front pads twice on mine, and the rear pads once. Rear pads a little trickier, because you need the VAG-COM to disengage the e-brake. There's a way to do it without the VAG-COM, but I never looked into it since I have the VAG-COM.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
I've never replaced the rotors, but will probably do so then next time. Adding rotor replacement will probably add an hour, tops.
The first time I replaced the front pads, I went with Audi OEM and paid $120 for the set. I hated the amount of brake dust those things put out, so the second time I replaced them, I used Centric Posi-Quiet Metallic 104-09151, $40 from RockAuto.com. No more dust! I couldn't be happier with them, and there's no performance difference from OEM.
Rear pads, I used Centric CD300.11080, $20 from RockAuto.com. Same as the front, no difference from OEM.
You don't need to replace your rotors unless they're too thin, or you have a vibration. You don't need to flush your brake fluid unless you have contamination, or it's been 100,000 miles. My car has over 105,000 miles, still on the original set of rotors. So if you're willing to do it yourself, you can have a whole new set of brake pads just as safe and more dust-free than originals for $60.
I like you replaced my pads with ease however the rotors are a different animal..not because it's super difficult but it's because of bolts that have been put it with a impact wrench when they put the two bolts in that hold the brackets for the caliper ..if you don't have a impact wrench I doubt very seriously you will get them off ...ohh and don't forget the easily rounded off star bit you have to get off before you change the rotors ...they are seized up 50 percent of the time and you end up rounding them off and then have to drill them out ...save yourself a big headache and get the rotors done at the shop ...if it's just pads no biggie but anything other than that you were warned ..lol seriously don't try it ..it sucks
07-03-2022, 08:49 AM
#39
I like you replaced my pads with ease however the rotors are a different animal..not because it's super difficult but it's because of bolts that have been put it with a impact wrench when they put the two bolts in that hold the brackets for the caliper ..if you don't have a impact wrench I doubt very seriously you will get them off ...ohh and don't forget the easily rounded off star bit you have to get off before you change the rotors ...they are seized up 50 percent of the time and you end up rounding them off and then have to drill them out ...save yourself a big headache and get the rotors done at the shop ...if it's just pads no biggie but anything other than that you were warned ..lol seriously don't try it ..it sucks
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