Complete Audio Install
The problem is I thought I needed to have the power and ground from the converter connected to the Bose wires to actually get the remote turn on to work.
My LOC has 7 wires, 4 speaker wires (+L -L +R -R), 1 Black (ground) 1 Yellow (Pos) 1 Blue (Remote)
so from what you guys are telling me I can just connect my Remote wire from my LOC directly to the amp and it will work?
Last edited by gkb; Dec 22, 2010 at 10:02 AM.
The problem is I thought I needed to have the power and ground from the converter connected to the Bose wires to actually get the remote turn on to work.
My LOC has 7 wires, 4 speaker wires (+L -L +R -R), 1 Black (ground) 1 Yellow (Power) 1 Blue (Remote)
so from what you guys are telling me I can just connect my Remote wire from my LOC directly to the amp and it will work?
Also be advised my pin layout was giving for BOSE sound system so if you have Basic pins might not be the same.
Last edited by audia6s; Dec 21, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
Also be advised my pin layout was giving for BOSE sound system so if you have Basic pins might not be the same.
It's funny cause I know so much about car audio it's not even funny, but you know what they say, "you learn something new everyday"
lol in out there in 25degree CT winter, help me out buddy, i'm freezing.
P.S. Its -12C here
Lol, wow don't freeze, better yet don't drive I've been watching videos all week about snowy/Icy roads with 20 car pile ups.
Bringing Audi to Life for Audi Fans
Lol, wow don't freeze, better yet don't drive I've been watching videos all week about snowy/Icy roads with 20 car pile ups.
Had everything working for a little but had to unhook everything. I need to find a better way to get those t-taps in. It seems 10-12 gauge will work a lot better but I can't find them anywhere (pepboys, autozone, advance only have the 14-16) the 14-16 gave me a very hard time, and my needle nose pliers and vice grip didn't make it any easier. Is there a special tool to make the T-taps go in with a breeze?


