r1racer

Procedure for removing the e-brake if this is what your after. Yes you can take it off and then retract the piston with what looks like a hex or torx bit (they call it the brake caliper adjuster screw). You still have to manually push the piston back with your hand after you rotate the adjuster screw, however. Would be much easier/safer just to borrow someone's vag for a day though (vaglocator.com) and do it the proper way as such:

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ight=DIY+BRAKE

Installation.
Electromechanical Parking Brake Actuator
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Removing
Note:
Ignition on
Release parking brake
Coding check and reported if necessary.
DTC memory interrogated, errors shown corrected and DTC memory erased.
Ignition off
Raise vehicle.
Remove wheels.
Note:
Ignition must be switched off for at least 30 seconds when disconnecting connector! (this is the wiring)
Clean entire area around connector and actuator/brake caliper.
Disconnect actuator connector - 1 - .
Remove both actuator bolts (Torx 30) - 1 - .
Remove actuator in direction of - arrow -
Remove sealing ring with a suitable tool.
Ensure ring groove of the seal and contact surface of parking brake actuator do not become damaged.
Note:
Do not use any tools with sharp edges.
Clean ring groove and contact surfaces if dirty. Only use brake cleaner
Installing
Install new seal
Turn brake caliper adjuster screw back a bit.
Note:
This makes it easier to install the actuator.
Item - 1 - position actuator as shown
Note:
Ensure seal is seated correctly
Item - 2 - rotate actuator so bolt hole - a - and threads in brake caliper housing - b - are brought into alignment.
Ensure parking brake actuator is seated flush against brake caliper.
Attach both actuator bolts (Torx 30). Torque specification 12 Nm.
Position bolts by hand and screw in a few turns. If threads are damaged, entire brake caliper must be replaced!
Note:
Only insert connector by hand to avoid damaging it.
Ensure connectors on vehicle side and actuator side are free of dirt and damage.
Install connector.
Mounting wheels Wheel and Tire Guide - Repair Group 44
After replacing actuator, basic setting 10 must be performed with the vehicle diagnostic tester in the EPB function.
For this, use Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051 .
Then select basic section 10 under "Function" VAS 5051, Connecting and Selecting Functions . or
Under chassis (Rep. Gr. 01:34-65)
Brake system (Rep. Gr. 01:45-46)
01- On Board Diagnostic (OBD) capable systems
53 - Parking brake
J540 - Electro-Mechanical Parking Brake Control Module
J540 - Basic setting (3 Electromechanical parking brake function test)
Copyright © 2008 Audi of America, Inc. and Bentley Publishers. All rights reserved. Last processed:

r1racer

Procedure for servicing the caliper:

Rear Brake Caliper, Servicing Note:
When performing repairs install all of the parts supplied in repair kit.
Apply thin coat of assembly paste G 052 150 A2 to brake cylinders, pistons and seals.
1 - Self-locking bolt, 35 Nm
Always replace
When loosening and tightening, counter-hold at guide pin
2 - Brake caliper housing with actuator
Pre-bleed caliper housing after repairing Brake System Bleeding
3 - Bleeder valve, 10 Nm
4 - Dust cap
Push onto bleeder valve
5 - Sealing ring
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
6 - Pressure nut
To operate parking brake
7 - Pistons
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
8 - Guide pins
Grease before pulling on protective cap
9 - Protective cap
Pull onto brake carrier and guide pin
10 - Brake carrier with guide pins and protective cap
Supplied as pre-assembled replacement part with sufficient grease on guide pins
If protective caps or guide pins are damaged, install repair kit. Use supplied grease packet to lubricate guide pins.
11 - Protective cap
Removing and installing Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and Installing
Pull onto piston with outer sealing lip
.Rear Brake Caliper Piston, Removing and InstallingSpecial tools, testers and auxiliary items required
Torque wrench V.A.G 1331
Torque wrench V.A.G 1332
Piston resetting tool T10145
Disassembly wedge 3409
Vehicle diagnostic, test and information system VAS 5051
Removing
Remove pistons as far as possible from brake caliper
Force piston out of brake caliper housing using compressed air.
Note:
When removing, make sure that surface of cylinder is not damaged.
Place a wooden board into recess of the caliper housing so it is not damaged.
Remove old seal from brake caliper with Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Installing
Install new seal in brake caliper.
Place new protective cap on brake pistons as shown.
Install pressure nut to dimension - a - 15 mm.
Insert protective cap in brake caliper groove. Use Trim Removal Wedge 3409 .
Carefully slide brake piston into brake caliper. When doing so move brake piston. Brake piston must be guided over pressure nut, this is only possible in four positions.
After brake piston has been guided onto pressure nut, press it as far as stop into brake caliper.
Note:
Ensure pressure nut is not damaged.
Install pressure nut clockwise as far as stop.
Ensure rubber makes contact around brake caliper housing - arrows -
Press piston into brake caliper by hand
Note:
The inner sealing lip of the protective cap slips into the groove on the piston.
Copyright © 2008 Audi of America, Inc. and Bentley Publishers. All rights reserved. Last processed:

Chango

Chip8, Thanks for the info from ecstuning about the vchecker pro not working for the brake retract. You saved me from some aggravation!

Tanket

The OP said, "Also, I pretty much figured out that you can get the piston to withdraw without needing the Mactool or the vagcom. You can remove the motor from the caliper using a torx socket to remove the two bolts. Once removed, inserting the torx socket into the back of the caliper and turning clockwise will with allow you to compress the piston. You can see this proceedure in the Bently manual as it is what they tell you to do when rebuilding the piston seals......"

That's the procedure that I'm asking about and he says that it came out of the Bentely Manual. All I'm asking is for someone to post/paste the exact words from the manual. I would like to know what follows the first part that he posted, do they need the Vag-Com to finish the job properly or do the motors self adjust without it? Also, when you have the wheels off and the brakes apart on your day off and the car needs to be used the next day, it's definitely NOT easier to borrow (from how far away?) a Vag-Com than doing this simple procedeure and finishing the job.

Tanket

Not how someone did the job but the actual procedeure from the manual...........

r1racer

I can't answer the question about self adjustment but the above posts are from Bentley.

emkawarrior

I dunno, I've seen too many Servos throw errors after being removed over my lifetime. (And one of my lifetimes was repairing robotics, so I've seen a ton of servos!) As for the $110.... really I had a VAGCOM in my A4 days, and really prefer the vagchecker... I never used the mapping, and having to use the laptop was a pita sometimes. I keep my vagchecker pro in it's nice pouch in the glovebox... nice to always have a vag tool along for the ride.

mystrodo

Hope you share it with fellow Audi nuts...if you go to your regional Audi club gatherings that is. The V-Checker (http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/VW-Manual.pdf) certainly seems a more convenient alternative to VC..mainly no pc needed and comes with the proper cable .

Tanket

Good to know, thanks. You're not really removing the servo motor, just taking the whole assy. off and turning a screw. Nothing besides the plastic housing screws and the internal screw that you turn are being touched. Even if you removed the motor, assuming it was good and you don't abuse it or get it dirty, I don't see any reason for it to throw an error. It all hinges (not literally) on weather the piston readjusts itself and/or what position do you put it in after backing it off. Some day we will know for sure! I'll try asking an Audi tech that I know..............

assortedpixels

I'm glad I found this post, it made changing my rears much easier. My stock pads were squeeking so I replaced them even though they still had lots of life left. I also get rid of my new front Brembo pads. Now I have EBC reds all around and am already happier with them while still breaking them in.