AudiAllTheWay

All automotive suspensions are a wear item so not a bubble.

Typically front upper control arms wear out around 100,000KM’s depending on road conditions and driving style. Lower control arms typically last a bit longer than uppers. There are no suspension clunks when properly maintained.

If you do not want to go back in for awhile then regrease and reboot the front axles while installing a complete front suspension kit including sway bar end links and tie rod ends, then get a wheel alignment and drive care free for another 100,000KM’s.

Sallad

Well, considering you don't do any of the work on your own car, you have no idea what to look for.

I have done many, many suspension work throughout my time working on cars (I'm 50 now) So I know what to look for and how to tell if something isn't right.

Sallad

When your "new" car hits 250,000km, come back here and tell us what you think of it. Sure you love it now, because its new.

kelisko

That's exactly my point! Don't spend $20K - $30K on a used complicated and unreliable German money-pit "project car". Buy a brand new Japanese car with that money and live a happy life. I am saving so much money, time and have zero stress right now because I woke up in "my bubble" and popped it! Yes, landing was brutal, painful and I took difficult decisions but I quickly recovered and I am thriving now! I can't believe I have money to spare on my bank account

AudiAllTheWay

My 2011 S-Line C6 3.0T was one of the last to leave the C6 production line so it has all the factory updates. I purchased used 3 years old at 22,000 KM for half the original retail value. Final price after taxes was $30K US. The engine was on its third oil change and with arrangements I performed my own PPI on hoist before signing. Based on past experiences I plan to drive it for 20 years and I am half way there now. This one is JHM Stage 2 and is a fantastic highway cruiser.

You bought a used A7 3.0T with 250,000 KM for $30K US and shipped it around the world without a PPI. The CREC engine and a ton of maintenance parts including PCV were burned up before you received it. You proceeded to take the engine apart to produce a series of maintenance videos which you enjoy doing for profit, but later discovered the engine came with cylinder damage so it was too late to chase the seller for several reasons.

These are examples of two very different purchasing experiences with very different outcomes.

Depending on a buyer’s purchasing decisions, it can be worth spending $30K US on a slightly used $60K+ luxury vehicle as long as you know what your getting into and why.

kelisko

I've been ignoring you because you're clearly an unconditional Audi fanboy - your pseudo speaks volumes - and I'm tired of your repeated and odd questions but I will not let you spew lies because you feel uncomfortable that I ignore you and that I share my truth about the brand you're a fan of. Sane people would know that nobody enjoys tearing apart the engine in their newly purchased car to fix things for profit. You just insulted me and many people on this forum. I make these videos to help people, not to make profit. I am proud enough to delete my YouTube channel because of your st*p*d comment and I did so in the past but I won't because I care for my subscribers which have shown tremendous support, love and appreciate the work that I do. With what I already own and what I earn with my job I don't need the dust coins I make on YouTube.

I suggest you go back and read my original message in this thread before spewing whatever nonsense you think makes sense. I also suggest you pick a piece of paper and a pen to list every part you've replaced and every maintenance you've performed on your low-mileage money-pit project car. If that does not shock you, your bubble must be way thicker than I thought.

By the way, since I'm eventually replying to you and I wish you well nonetheless I'd like to inform you that you should never grease your control arm ends. Procure a repair manual and carefully follow the instructions in it if you want your project car to last longer and make you spend less money and time fixing it. I am referring to the off-topic long post with unrelated pictures you've posted above to show us that you can work on your money pit project car whereas you are displaying blatant ignorance.

AudiAllTheWay

Everything I said is a statement of fact. Prove me wrong. If the truth hurts then go get upset with the person in the bathroom mirror.

When I join the Suzuki forum I’ll be sure to use SuzukiAllTheWay then you’ll know it’s me 😉

Running around the forums insulting those who have differing opinion receive the honour of your Fanboy label. It’s like running around the Airport telling everyone you are leaving while never actually getting on a plane, instead hanging around trying to generate reactions from your audience while insulting others who enjoy flying.

Your $30K US newly purchased A7 had 250,000 KM on the clock with a burned up engine. I find it somewhat therapeutic working on engines and I do consider myself sane, but even I wouldn’t take that one on.

Do what you wish with your YouTube Channel. Some of the income you made was from me watching a few of your videos. My opinion is you do legitimately convey the message that you do enjoy making them. Blame me for your desire to delete the channel if that works for you.

You often say I should go read elsewhere for more information. This seems to be the default reaction when feelings get hurt.

I have a Maintenance Log for all my cars with date stamps, part numbers, prices and work done. I know exactly how much each one of my Money Pits has cost me. For example my ten year ownership, everything works, fully maintained with zero DTC’s JHM Stage 2 S-Line C6 3.0T has cost $50K CDN to date and I expect another 10 years from this vehicle. I am happy.

You should not harshly judge things simply because you do not understand them. Let me explain for you. I am in an extreme climate with hot summers and salted roads cold winters. The front suspension aluminum upright mixed with salt water causes a galvanic reaction between differing metals. Among other areas, this reaction causes the steel pinch bolt and ball joint posts to fuse into the aluminum upright. The aluminum holes for the ball joint posts actually start to disintegrate over time requiring upright replacement. My 45 years experience working on German cars has proven grease and anti-seize during assembly helps, and more importantly a tip for those affected by same, fully pack thick grease into the upright pinch bolt seams after reassembly will help keep salt water out. The thick wheel bearing grease attracts road dust and helps create a waterproof sealed shell. I’ve had upright pinch bolts come apart like butter after years of salted roads winter driving. For example this is how dry assembled pinch bolts tend to come apart in salted roads winter climates:

Sallad

You keep saying "money pit" car. I guess I've just had good luck with mine, as I haven't done that much to it. I've replaced a bunch of seal and gaskets, and maintenance items, which is to be expected for an older car, but overall mine has not been a money pit at all. I guess I'm lucky??

This is my 5th Audi, and one of the more reliable ones. I've owned Fords, Chevy, Dodges and Benz. Ford was the worst. Had to do 3 transmissions out of 5 Fords I've owned.

I know you are hard on your cars, I've seen the roads you drive, maybe that has something to do with your poor reliability?

kelisko

I will keep referring you back to posts where I already answered your repeated questions. Go read my first post in this thread which explains why I decided to purchase a 237,000 Km Audi and why I decided to eventually leave the brand. I think I've been pretty clear and most people responding to this thread did not have additional questions.

You purchased your very low-mileage Audi for $30K and spent $50K fixing it over 3 years. If that's not a money-pit project car, I don't know what else it could be. I spent way less including long-distance shipping and additional custom fees on my 2005 Audi A6 3.2 which I purchased at 110K miles and owned for 8 years but still consider today that I did spend too much money and time fixing it. My dozens of videos showing how to fix this and that proves my point and the overwhelming interest in watching these videos shows that I am not the only one having these never-ending issues. I will be spending $0 over the next 3 years at least on my brand new Japanese car. As an experienced used Audi owner, I am putting the word out so that other people interested in buying these money-pit project cars don't make the same mistakes and the ones currently in a bubble pop it!

The repair manual clearly states not to grease the control arm ends or any bolts or nuts as this will affect the torque force and the overall reliability of the suspensions whatever your road conditions are. Buy one and read it while working on your money-pit project car and don't take dangerous shortcuts because you want maintenance to be easier the next time.

AudiAllTheWay

What is torque force in your context? No one I know in salted winter road climate assembles suspensions with dry hardware as that is just crazy talk. Again should not judge what you do not understand simply because of your local hot climate.

You should reread my previous comments as you appear desperate to avoid dealing with your own truths. Again assumptions and again you misunderstood.

My C6 3.0T total spend $50K CDN includes original purchase price, wheels and tires, maintenance parts and JHM upgrades for the past 10 years. Show me a maintained luxury car 400+HP for $50K during ten years ownership. A lot of money yes but certainly not a Money Pit. How much did you spend on your 250,000KM A7 plus all the parts for your video series before you gave up only to new car $pend for your Suzuki?




Did same with a few others such as K04 B5 S4 daily driver for 20 years 425HP summer and detuned 350HP winter.
BTW you crashed a B5 1.8T shortly after purchase because you said it was too powerful for you. Got pics?





The manual does not say to use a toothbrush to hold an intake valve open while replacing rocker arm in the V10, nor does the manual describe how to reclock an exhaust cam tone ring. The manual says to pull V10 engine and tear down to replace a dislodged rocker and $5K camshafts plus plus plus.




Sometimes it is easier to think differently.


Shiny side up and YMMV 👍