Audi D2 A8/A8L/S8 (1997-2003) FAQ Digest
09-09-2008, 08:35 AM
#81
Re: Torque Converter rebuild with pictures
<ul><li><a href="http://www.transmissiondigest.com/tech/TCTech/200512/200512TCT.htm">http://www.transmissiondigest.com/tech/TCTech/200512/200512TCT.htm</a</li></ul>
09-18-2008, 03:11 AM
#82
AudiWorld Super User
windshield washer pump replacement
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/headlightwasher.jpg"></center><p>If are leaking washer fluid and it's not the hose connection above the foglights then look here.
There are 2 washer fluid pumps which you can see in this picture (just above the bumper trim). The black one is for the windshield and the white one is for the headlight washers.
Access is not too bad once you see this picture. First, remove the headlight trim, then the headlight. Next remove the airbox and pull out of the way. I use a bungee cord so I don't have to disconnect everything.
If you're not replacing the tank, this will allow enough access to do whatever you need to do.
In my case, I had a constant drip which I though was one of the rubber grommets that the black pump seats into. After putting it all back togther and filling with a gallon of washer fluid, I found out I was wrong.
The pump itself was leaking through the case and dripping down. It took a few minutes to build up pressure so it was deceiving.
I would replace the windshield pump and three grommets (2 for the windshield pump and 1 for the headlight pump). Both pumps just pull out of the grommets, there are no fasteners for attaching the pumps to the tank.
If you need to remove the entire tank, I think you can do it this way but it looks tight. For the work I did, I just slid it back a few inches to gain access to the two pumps.
If you want to do some testing, at least use plain water and do it before you put everything back together!
The part #'s are:
windshield pump - 4AO-955-651B ($75)
bottom grommets - 431-955-465A ($3)
side grommet - (windshield pump only) - 443-955-465 ($1)
Bob
There are 2 washer fluid pumps which you can see in this picture (just above the bumper trim). The black one is for the windshield and the white one is for the headlight washers.
Access is not too bad once you see this picture. First, remove the headlight trim, then the headlight. Next remove the airbox and pull out of the way. I use a bungee cord so I don't have to disconnect everything.
If you're not replacing the tank, this will allow enough access to do whatever you need to do.
In my case, I had a constant drip which I though was one of the rubber grommets that the black pump seats into. After putting it all back togther and filling with a gallon of washer fluid, I found out I was wrong.
The pump itself was leaking through the case and dripping down. It took a few minutes to build up pressure so it was deceiving.
I would replace the windshield pump and three grommets (2 for the windshield pump and 1 for the headlight pump). Both pumps just pull out of the grommets, there are no fasteners for attaching the pumps to the tank.
If you need to remove the entire tank, I think you can do it this way but it looks tight. For the work I did, I just slid it back a few inches to gain access to the two pumps.
If you want to do some testing, at least use plain water and do it before you put everything back together!
The part #'s are:
windshield pump - 4AO-955-651B ($75)
bottom grommets - 431-955-465A ($3)
side grommet - (windshield pump only) - 443-955-465 ($1)
Bob
09-18-2008, 03:46 AM
#83
AudiWorld Super User
Intake Manifold - freeing up stuck intake manifold actuators
On the 40v engine, the vacuum actuated rods at the front of the engine should move the variable intake runners which are inside the intake manifold (say that three times fast).
Note: I don't know if this is an issue on the 32v motor or not. Someone please chime in if they know.
Over time, they are becoming frozen in place and the effect is a loss of power on the low or high end depending on their position when this happens.
They should move easily by hand and can be checked on the car this way. If they don't, you'll need to remove the intake manifold to repair.
Thanks to Greg March (Gondar) for putting together these pics and write-up. Both of my D2's have the same issue so I'll be adding to this post as well.
Greg's notes:
"42 shows the hole that allows putting some torque on the shaft w/o stressing the plastic head of the shaft. That image also shows the cannot get it O ring gasket. The jam mode is white corrosion inside the bore of the Magnesium spring seat piece against the plastic shaft head. The shafts run freely in the plastic bushings inside. Clean out with green Scotchbrite (46). About 50 rotations. Arm is 4mm hex, springseat is 5mm hex as are the IM holdown bolts. 12 30T hold the top and bottom together.
There is only about 60 degrees preload on the springs
Besides the gaskets shown, try to get the O ring sealing the metal breather tube coming out of the valley, and 8 injector O rings for the bottom. Or 16. And some zip ties and a few small hose clamps AZ AH is cheap on the gaskets and injector seals. They take a while to reach the East coast. You will need some sensor safe gray silicone sealer to augment the case-half seal, as you cannot get the O ring
The casting are Mg and impress me as very fragile.
I put the springseats back with a very light film of white lubriplate grease inside the bores".
Cleaning inside with Scotchbrite (#46)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/046.jpg">
Pic of gasket to order (#26)
<img
src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/026.jpg">
Note: I don't know if this is an issue on the 32v motor or not. Someone please chime in if they know.
Over time, they are becoming frozen in place and the effect is a loss of power on the low or high end depending on their position when this happens.
They should move easily by hand and can be checked on the car this way. If they don't, you'll need to remove the intake manifold to repair.
Thanks to Greg March (Gondar) for putting together these pics and write-up. Both of my D2's have the same issue so I'll be adding to this post as well.
Greg's notes:
"42 shows the hole that allows putting some torque on the shaft w/o stressing the plastic head of the shaft. That image also shows the cannot get it O ring gasket. The jam mode is white corrosion inside the bore of the Magnesium spring seat piece against the plastic shaft head. The shafts run freely in the plastic bushings inside. Clean out with green Scotchbrite (46). About 50 rotations. Arm is 4mm hex, springseat is 5mm hex as are the IM holdown bolts. 12 30T hold the top and bottom together.
There is only about 60 degrees preload on the springs
Besides the gaskets shown, try to get the O ring sealing the metal breather tube coming out of the valley, and 8 injector O rings for the bottom. Or 16. And some zip ties and a few small hose clamps AZ AH is cheap on the gaskets and injector seals. They take a while to reach the East coast. You will need some sensor safe gray silicone sealer to augment the case-half seal, as you cannot get the O ring
The casting are Mg and impress me as very fragile.
I put the springseats back with a very light film of white lubriplate grease inside the bores".
Cleaning inside with Scotchbrite (#46)
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/046.jpg">
Pic of gasket to order (#26)
<img
src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/026.jpg">
09-22-2008, 02:33 PM
#85
AudiWorld Super User
Power Steering Pump - change without removing front end
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/55607/pspumpa8.jpg"></center><p>
The PS can be changed pretty easily. You do not need to remove much in order to do so. Here's how I did it:
Follow the procedure on the 32v TB procedure and loosen the electric fan until you can move it out of the way (see horrible pic attached).
- Loosen the drivebelt and take it off the PS pulley and leave in place. You don't need to completely remove it off the car.
Once you do that, the swap is actually pretty easy.
1) There are three 6mm hex bolts that attach the pulley to the pump. You need to remove this pulley in order to be able to remove two of the three PS mounting bolts. The pulley is right in the way.
I tried, but could not get a socket to fit in front of the pulley. So, I used a 6mm allen key and a small piece of pipe to get some leverage. This is the only tricky part but there are only three bolts holding the pulley and they're pretty low torque.
You'll need a chain wrench or something similar to hold the pulley while you loosen the hex bolts. I was by myself and couldn't hold the chain wrench, loosen the bolts AND take a picture
Once the bolts are out, the pulley will slide off but might need a few taps from the back. I used a 4" extension and hit that with a hammer while rotating. There's probably a ridge of rust so don't expect it to just fall off.
Once it's off, you'll see two 13mm bolts that mount the pump to the block. They're across from each other on an angle. Loosen those two and then do the same for the one in back of the pump which also a 13mm. This one is clearly visible but is partially obstructed. You'll probably need a swivel end to get it or an offset wrench. Take a look at the new pump for reference.
At this point, remove the lower PS hose on the reservoir, tip it over and drain the fluid out. If you don't, you'll make a mess at the next step.
The reason I said "loosen" the bolts above is because you'll want to remove the two banjo PS lines before completely removing the pump itself.
There are two different sizes, 22 and 24mm if I recall. The bottom one can only be removed from under the car but you can see both clearly from up top.
Now, go back finish removing the three 13mm mounting bolts and remove the pump.
Installation is the reverse. Refill with fluid and you should be all set. Check for leaks obviously.
Figure about two hours if you're doing it for the first time.
The PS can be changed pretty easily. You do not need to remove much in order to do so. Here's how I did it:
Follow the procedure on the 32v TB procedure and loosen the electric fan until you can move it out of the way (see horrible pic attached).
- Loosen the drivebelt and take it off the PS pulley and leave in place. You don't need to completely remove it off the car.
Once you do that, the swap is actually pretty easy.
1) There are three 6mm hex bolts that attach the pulley to the pump. You need to remove this pulley in order to be able to remove two of the three PS mounting bolts. The pulley is right in the way.
I tried, but could not get a socket to fit in front of the pulley. So, I used a 6mm allen key and a small piece of pipe to get some leverage. This is the only tricky part but there are only three bolts holding the pulley and they're pretty low torque.
You'll need a chain wrench or something similar to hold the pulley while you loosen the hex bolts. I was by myself and couldn't hold the chain wrench, loosen the bolts AND take a picture
Once the bolts are out, the pulley will slide off but might need a few taps from the back. I used a 4" extension and hit that with a hammer while rotating. There's probably a ridge of rust so don't expect it to just fall off.
Once it's off, you'll see two 13mm bolts that mount the pump to the block. They're across from each other on an angle. Loosen those two and then do the same for the one in back of the pump which also a 13mm. This one is clearly visible but is partially obstructed. You'll probably need a swivel end to get it or an offset wrench. Take a look at the new pump for reference.
At this point, remove the lower PS hose on the reservoir, tip it over and drain the fluid out. If you don't, you'll make a mess at the next step.
The reason I said "loosen" the bolts above is because you'll want to remove the two banjo PS lines before completely removing the pump itself.
There are two different sizes, 22 and 24mm if I recall. The bottom one can only be removed from under the car but you can see both clearly from up top.
Now, go back finish removing the three 13mm mounting bolts and remove the pump.
Installation is the reverse. Refill with fluid and you should be all set. Check for leaks obviously.
Figure about two hours if you're doing it for the first time.
10-27-2008, 08:31 AM
#88
AudiWorld Member
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Rear Breather Hoses Replacement.
These should be replaced at the same time as the front breather hose.
<a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/breatherhose.html">Front breather hose replacement procedure at AudiPages.com</a>
Also requires new intake manifold gaskets.
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/174788.phtml">Rear breather hoses replacement procedure</a>
<a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/breatherhose.html">Front breather hose replacement procedure at AudiPages.com</a>
Also requires new intake manifold gaskets.
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a8/msgs/174788.phtml">Rear breather hoses replacement procedure</a>
