Audi S8 1998 transmission problem
#21
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About the smell of burning (and nothing to do with trans problems or atf)...look at your left catalytic converter for gear oil.
VERY common leak on all D2's...I'm on my 4th output seal at 115K miles.
Driveshaft output flange seal leak...again, gear oil from center diff bolted to rear of trans, but separate from atf in trans case:
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...placement.html
P.S. The trans also has a "breather" on top, near the center diff on the rear of the trans...some versions have a tube leading away from the breather, depending on car it's in (same ZF trans in many Euro cars...BMW, Jag, etc).
Look at page 24 here:
http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/u...ars/5HP24A.pdf
VERY common leak on all D2's...I'm on my 4th output seal at 115K miles.
Driveshaft output flange seal leak...again, gear oil from center diff bolted to rear of trans, but separate from atf in trans case:
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...placement.html
P.S. The trans also has a "breather" on top, near the center diff on the rear of the trans...some versions have a tube leading away from the breather, depending on car it's in (same ZF trans in many Euro cars...BMW, Jag, etc).
Look at page 24 here:
http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/u...ars/5HP24A.pdf
The transmission works perfect. But when the car is hot I smell oil or
fluid. It is not burning smell but like I would put my nose close to oil/
fluid. The smell is mostly inside the car.
Sometimes there is no smell in the midtime of driving.
Today I made about 30 miles city drive. Each time I moved from parking
there was no fluid on ground. Before(when I made 12 miles after extra putting fluid into transmissio) there it was.
I don't beleave that we saved the transmission with changing fluid
and filter+edding extra fluid twice.
What comes now?
Thanks
Primoz
#22
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I am sorry for asking again but only here you
try to help me.
The transmission worked as new for 60 miles after
last extra 1 liter of fluid. And from my last answer
there it was again on the ground.
At the o ring at the radiator there is no fluid.
Today i noticed that there was 2 liters of cooling
Fluid for engine missing. The computer didn't
Show me that.
Is there any connection with it?
Because the car went into limp mode twice
again before I noticed it.
The sound I described before was because
I had climate turned on.
To put again extra fluid into transmission again
and to watch with picked up car where it cones out or to do an expensive "rebuilt" where I know
I'll be cheated because the transmission works
as new after giving extra 1 liter of fluid?
try to help me.
The transmission worked as new for 60 miles after
last extra 1 liter of fluid. And from my last answer
there it was again on the ground.
At the o ring at the radiator there is no fluid.
Today i noticed that there was 2 liters of cooling
Fluid for engine missing. The computer didn't
Show me that.
Is there any connection with it?
Because the car went into limp mode twice
again before I noticed it.
The sound I described before was because
I had climate turned on.
To put again extra fluid into transmission again
and to watch with picked up car where it cones out or to do an expensive "rebuilt" where I know
I'll be cheated because the transmission works
as new after giving extra 1 liter of fluid?
#23
AudiWorld Super User
The ATF cooler coils are integral with radiator...side by side with coolant coils, internally. There's no reason to believe that they could mix in there (both under their own outward pressure), but both could be leaking from a common damaged (corroded?) area. That's really the only place coolant and ATF are in close proximity...if you have just one problem.
You really need to visually spot the source of each leak...cardboard or paper under the car while warmed up and idling...and esp with coolant, AFTER the car is shut off...especially coolant can leak then from the increased pressure.
Common leak points (if not radiator damage or corrosion or a hose) are the oil cooler connection to the engine block (little plastic pipe) or a worn water pump bearing. Need to look for dried coolant residue, if no luck finding the drip point under the car.
You really need to visually spot the source of each leak...cardboard or paper under the car while warmed up and idling...and esp with coolant, AFTER the car is shut off...especially coolant can leak then from the increased pressure.
Common leak points (if not radiator damage or corrosion or a hose) are the oil cooler connection to the engine block (little plastic pipe) or a worn water pump bearing. Need to look for dried coolant residue, if no luck finding the drip point under the car.
#25
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Thanks both.
We'll pick up car tomorrow morning. The owner of service is now more friendly to me.
In the coolant reserver there is only red fluid and it is not dirty.
In my last poste I meaned if less cooling fluid for
engine could couse a misstake for transmission.
Today after I put enough fluid for cooling engine
the transmission worked perfect again.
We'll see tomorrow.
Strange thing this Audi s8...
We'll pick up car tomorrow morning. The owner of service is now more friendly to me.
In the coolant reserver there is only red fluid and it is not dirty.
In my last poste I meaned if less cooling fluid for
engine could couse a misstake for transmission.
Today after I put enough fluid for cooling engine
the transmission worked perfect again.
We'll see tomorrow.
Strange thing this Audi s8...
#26
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I forgot to say that maybe there was on the floor
fluid for cooling engine and not trsnsmission
fluid because in those days we had rain and
maybe I made a mistake and mixed them.
Do you think that we can do any dammage
with putting 1 liter of transmissinon fluid again?
Thanks Primoz
fluid for cooling engine and not trsnsmission
fluid because in those days we had rain and
maybe I made a mistake and mixed them.
Do you think that we can do any dammage
with putting 1 liter of transmissinon fluid again?
Thanks Primoz
#27
AudiWorld Super User
I forgot to say that maybe there was on the floor
fluid for cooling engine and not trsnsmission
fluid because in those days we had rain and
maybe I made a mistake and mixed them.
Do you think that we can do any dammage
with putting 1 liter of transmissinon fluid again?
Thanks Primoz
fluid for cooling engine and not trsnsmission
fluid because in those days we had rain and
maybe I made a mistake and mixed them.
Do you think that we can do any dammage
with putting 1 liter of transmissinon fluid again?
Thanks Primoz
From cold start, fluid temp should be at it's upper limit in 15 minutes or less....may vary with extreme outside temps.
#28
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No problem, if it's a liter low...and topped off correctly...car dead level, starting with cold trans, running till up to required temp (40C...104F...bath water)...fill till overflow. Don't let temp go past 50C (124F...hot bath water).
From cold start, fluid temp should be at it's upper limit in 15 minutes or less....may vary with extreme outside temps.
From cold start, fluid temp should be at it's upper limit in 15 minutes or less....may vary with extreme outside temps.
The transmission worked perfect now in
1-st, 2-nd, 3-rd and almost all the time in
4-th. Then it went into limp mode. Today
I have changed batery (I don't know if it is the right word) because it was shown as a problem.
It is better now, less lim modes but there still are.
As I said never in 1-st, 2-nd and 3-rd.
Any ideas?
Thanks
#29
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Today I found a man who worked on audi
transmission for 15 years in known and good
conpany. His "tester" showed problems in 4-th and 5 - th gare and priblem with torque converter.
He said that there should be changed oil pump, torqe converter and some parts in transmission.
For the price 2.000 eur.
He also said that new torqe converter costs 700 eur.
Is it possible that the transmissions work perfect in 1-st, 2-nd and 3-rd with bad torque converter?
Thanks
Primoz
transmission for 15 years in known and good
conpany. His "tester" showed problems in 4-th and 5 - th gare and priblem with torque converter.
He said that there should be changed oil pump, torqe converter and some parts in transmission.
For the price 2.000 eur.
He also said that new torqe converter costs 700 eur.
Is it possible that the transmissions work perfect in 1-st, 2-nd and 3-rd with bad torque converter?
Thanks
Primoz