Oil Cooler Pipe
#11
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sorry for the lack of responses, busy around here these days. I have decided to do the work, I have bought the aluminum pipe, already have a garage full of jacks, ramps, and power tools which will hopefully help. I decided to farm it out and buy a summer car and rent a storage unit for the summer so that I can take my time and do it right. I may end up doing all of the timing components while I am there, not sure yet. Thanks for all the advice everyone!
Last edited by KillerDonuts27; 02-06-2020 at 04:27 PM.
#12
AudiWorld Super User
I have a full set of 40v timing belt tools for sale if you want to own them. Everything you need plus the “good”, compact cam sprocket puller and the updated crank lock tool. All in a PVC pipe with end caps for shipping.
Bob
Bob
#13
AudiWorld Junior Member
Thread Starter
what exactly comes with the full set and how much?
#14
AudiWorld Member
Anybody have an idea if the figure-8 looking oil cooler gasket will be available again (part # 077-115-441 I believe)? ECS Tuning and Audi say No Longer Available. Maybe keep the old one in place and goop it up? I already ordered the Bufkin pipe. Should have bought one earlier...
#16
It’s just no longer available to just buy it itself. You buy it with the gasket set to replace all of them.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...05#description
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...05#description
#17
AudiWorld Member
It’s just no longer available to just buy it itself. You buy it with the gasket set to replace all of them.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...05#description
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...05#description
#18
I'm into this job now. Going to have to drill the head off the evil upper-rearmost bolt. I was too optimistic with a swivel 8mm hex key and stripped it out. The upper middle one I was able to get out by making a custom length long hex key from a $14 set of HFT long sockets. I am hoping to re-use the B-shaped seal but I'll decide when I have it in front of me.
#19
My advice to anyone thinking of stripping this bolt out is: "don't"
I suggest breaking this one loose first, it's the hardest to see and even be aware exists. If you do it last it might have a lot of force transferred to it from the other bolts. Definitely do not remove any bolts at first, just pop them loose and then tighten up again.
IMO get a tool into these tough ones nice and square and find a way to adapt to that tool rather than try to use a ball head hex key. I should have probably used air impact on mine first so I could use a lot of force to keep the tool seated and let the air twist the bolt. My electric impact would not budge it and I stripped it out with a socket wrench breaker bar. Probably if I'd have trimmed my 3/8" normal length hex key a bit so it sat nice and deep and then hit with with the air via a wobble extension.
Maybe yours won't be so seized up. Maybe hitting it with a punch as I read (but did not do) to wake it up would have worked. Probably need a longer punch than I have laying around.
I suggest breaking this one loose first, it's the hardest to see and even be aware exists. If you do it last it might have a lot of force transferred to it from the other bolts. Definitely do not remove any bolts at first, just pop them loose and then tighten up again.
IMO get a tool into these tough ones nice and square and find a way to adapt to that tool rather than try to use a ball head hex key. I should have probably used air impact on mine first so I could use a lot of force to keep the tool seated and let the air twist the bolt. My electric impact would not budge it and I stripped it out with a socket wrench breaker bar. Probably if I'd have trimmed my 3/8" normal length hex key a bit so it sat nice and deep and then hit with with the air via a wobble extension.
Maybe yours won't be so seized up. Maybe hitting it with a punch as I read (but did not do) to wake it up would have worked. Probably need a longer punch than I have laying around.